Fuel lines and fittings question

[ChinStokes]

Hi all - Currently in the process of swapping out the original 273 from my '68 Belvedere with a 318. Part of that is to replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one. I have a Holley 12-801-1 fuel pump, a 12-803 regulator and a relay for switching. My question is, what type of lines (3/8, I know) and fittings have people used?

Thanks!

 

[Don Frelier]

Actually 5/16" fuel line would be the original size and works fine.

 

[ChinStokes]

Actually 5/16" fuel line would be the original size and works fine.

OK thank you Don. Also looking for experience people have had with brands or whether that matters. I saw no recommended anything with the pump or pressure regulator...

 

[Wietse]

My question is, what type of lines (3/8, I know) and fittings have people used?

Question is more like how much you want to spent on it.
You could use good quality rubber fuel hose and hose tail fittings with hose clamps, or go the fancy way with AN fittings and braided hose which are a much more expensive option but give more ease in assembly/disassembly. (and looks fancy though)
There is really no need to go with AN fittings as this material is capable of holding a lot more pressure, your pump is putting out 7 PSI.
Having an EFI kit and 60 PSI fuel pressure i would stick to the AN fittings.

 

[RJRENTON]

Are you going to replace all the fuel lines or just from the pump to the carb/EFI system. Are you wanting to replace the mechanical pump because of pressure or volume consideration? A stock 318 two barrel engine is not a high pressure or volume application and the stock 5/16" steel lines are just fine, and a pressure regulator to reduce the higher pressure from an electric pump to the same pressure delivered by the OEM pump seems redundant and not really needed, IMO.
But Consider Inline Tube at www.inlinetube.com or
Condider Fine Lines at www.sstubes.com

Both companies produce what you need but I'm sure others will have additional sources and comments.
BOB RENTON

 

[ChinStokes]

Are you going to replace all the fuel lines or just from the pump to the carb/EFI system. Are you wanting to replace the mechanical pump because of pressure or volume consideration? A stock 318 two barrel engine is not a high pressure or volume application and the stock 5/16" steel lines are just fine, and a pressure regulator to reduce the higher pressure from an electric pump to the same pressure delivered by the OEM pump seems redundant and not really needed, IMO.
But Consider Inline Tube at www.inlinetube.com or
Condider Fine Lines at www.sstubes.com

Both companies produce what you need but I'm sure others will have additional sources and comments.
BOB RENTON

Thanks for the info Bob. We are planning to do all the fuel lines. It's not a stock 318; it's got a mildly-hopped cam, with Edelbrock intake and 4 bbl carb and hooker headers. We are replacing the mechanical for a really dumb reason - we forgot to include the part the mechanical pump needs when we put it all back together. That took a long time to diagnose Now that the motor is in the Belvedere, we don't want to have to get in there to replace it, and figured it might be a good time to 'upgrade' to an electric setup.

 

[ChinStokes]

Question is more like how much you want to spent on it.
You could use good quality rubber fuel hose and hose tail fittings with hose clamps, or go the fancy way with AN fittings and braided hose which are a much more expensive option but give more ease in assembly/disassembly. (and looks fancy though)
There is really no need to go with AN fittings as this material is capable of holding a lot more pressure, your pump is putting out 7 PSI.
Having an EFI kit and 60 PSI fuel pressure i would stick to the AN fittings.

Thank you for the information Wietse; I think my son is leaning to AN and fancy braided (because cost is no option to him )but I wanted to see what experiences people here have had.

 

[RJRENTON]

Thanks for the info Bob. We are planning to do all the fuel lines. It's not a stock 318; it's got a mildly-hopped cam, with Edelbrock intake and 4 bbl carb and hooker headers. We are replacing the mechanical for a really dumb reason - we forgot to include the part the mechanical pump needs when we put it all back together. That took a long time to diagnose Now that the motor is in the Belvedere, we don't want to have to get in there to replace it, and figured it might be a good time to 'upgrade' to an electric setup.

It sounds like you forgot to install the fuel pump eccentric on the end of the the cam....how sad...but not the end of the world. The front of the the engine can be removed to install the eccentric in reasonably short order and less costly to install all the other stuff being contemplated. My origional RS23V0A****** GTX has the same 5/15" lines feeding the three Holley csrbs. The engine has 11:1 pistons, origional mechanical fuel pump and the 1/4" fuel return line, and a Crane cam equal to Mopar's 292° degree, 0.509" lift....and the car never had a fuel delivery issue....feeding 1350 CFM worth of carbs at 6000 RPM. My opinion, pull the ftont of the engine and add the eccentric...but its up to you...
BOB RENTON

 

[Rusty 72]

I just put a 5.9L in for my 318 that died and I wish wish wish I could've just run a mechanical pump over the electronic one. It's been a nightmare to plump the lines near the tank and having to rewire everything and having to source a oil pressure cut off switch, etc....

 

[Frankb]

I use metal lines and AN fittings for all fuel plumbing. I use Russell line and fittings. In my opinion an in tank electric pump with a return line is the best option. This is more work and expense but worth it.
Frank