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Fuel pump..... again!!!

747mopar

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Just looking around for options after having an embarrassing weekend when yet another fuel pump took a crap in the mall parking lot! Originally when I built this car I installed a Holley mech fuel pump, it lasted 2 years before it would no longer keep up at higher rpm's so I tried a Carter which didn't even make it a year before it failed! This time it wore the pin hole egg shaped to were it just fell out so I'm done with these pumps which all appear to be made by the same manufacturer. My question is what options are there outside of going electric which I just may do?
 
never seen a pin hole go bad. seen a pump arm break but thought the installer was more to blame for that. i wonder if there's an issue with the pump lobe on the cam. may seem far fetched but a roller cam lobe may be a little different than cast cam. maybe rpm/pump pressure with a little extra lobe just beat the thing to death? those pump pins are in a blind hole with a pressed in plug on one end. did the plug pop out? maybe it's time to move away from a mechanical and go electric?
 
I see Lewlot beat me to it.
Was thinking cam lobe also, but simple question- you did replace the pushrod??
If roller, comp sells a specific rod.
Bronze tipped if I remember, ouch you can damage cam.
383 I'm building now will get Edelbrock 1723, new rod no roller tho
I personally don't like electric for street cars, too annoying
 
I have that same carter pump and after five years still running strong....no problems

The others make a good point about the cam lobe...
 
All I've ever ran and never had a problem.Have you ever checked push rod length?
 
It's not a roller cam and the pushrod is the original but I did inspect it when I built the motor, looked nice like a healthy lifter. After I pulled the pump I did check it for smooth operation, felt as it should but I'm still going to pull the plug and remove it just to be sure.
 
I have that same carter pump and after five years still running strong....no problems

The others make a good point about the cam lobe...
I asked around here about pump brands before I bought this one, seams like most do have good luck with the Carters. No clue why this one failed. I'm still suspicious about them all being built or at least cast by the same manufacturer, I've got a Holley as well and side by side they're the same... even internally they look the same.
 
never seen a pin hole go bad. seen a pump arm break but thought the installer was more to blame for that. i wonder if there's an issue with the pump lobe on the cam. may seem far fetched but a roller cam lobe may be a little different than cast cam. maybe rpm/pump pressure with a little extra lobe just beat the thing to death? those pump pins are in a blind hole with a pressed in plug on one end. did the plug pop out? maybe it's time to move away from a mechanical and go electric?
What you see is how it came out except the pin was hanging partially out, enough that the lever was not attached anymore.

I'm thinking the same thing.. electric. Been thinking about it anyways to isolate the fuel lines away from the motor. I've never ran one so any tips on what to look for... stay away from? Summit has this kit that should do the trick but does Holley make a good one, are internal pumps better????
Screenshot_20170201-093242.png
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'll just have to put a fitting in the bottom of the tank for the supply line and of coarse wire it up via a relay although it says it only pulls 3 amps?
 
I've never had a Carter pump fail like youve described. If it were me, I would replace the pushrod and pump with one of your choice.
If you do decide to go electric, you don't need the Holley blue, Unless you like adjusting the regulator. The red Holley is preset at 7 lbs and doesn't need a regulator. You will need a dedicated circuit with a relay and either ignition source or toggle (hidden makes a great theft deterrent). The only time I put a fitting on the tank was for my race cars, otherwise it will pull through original sending unit/lines. I ALWAYS put a filter before my pumps if you decide to go that way.
Good luck!
 
i've got a carter on one of my 440's and there's no telling how old it is. i'm thinking i bought it in the 80's and it's still pumping. the pressed in plug that holds the pump arm pin has had to fall out/wasn't there, tampered with or something. there's no other way for the pin to move unless the plug is gone.

as far as electric pumps go i'd probably do some type of gerotor pump, like mallory but may be others. i'd use the existing line and pick-up if it's 3/8". i wouldn't use an electric pump full time without some kind of return. you don't need some big line. a 1/4" with some kind of pill/restriction in the line; maybe somewhere between .060"-.090".
 
Is the Mopar Hi-Po mechanical fuel pump a Carter? Works fine for me.
 
easiest is to replace the pushrod.....that Carter pump supplies a plenty of fuel your sweet ride......
 
Thanks guys, I just have so little faith in any parts nowadays, seams like what used to be a good product all of a sudden isn't anymore due to outsourcing. Can't say that's true in this case but 2 pumps failing prematurely that look identical has me scratching my head. If it's something on my end I'm not seeing it but will look further into the pushrod length but as I said it's the original to this block and the last pump performed flawlessly for 2 years before tapering off. Anybody know the correct length for a 400B?

I like the mechanical pumps for their simplicity but like the idea of getting the fuel lines away from the headers using an electric pump as well especially with today's fuel. I'll keep you informed.

As for the pin plug???? It was brand new and never tampered with. Makes me wonder if it was just a poor casting with porosity in the metal?
 
I would sincerely consider electric but don't think for one moment anyone makes one below a 20 amp draw. 1/4 inch line is fine for supply but if you want to add a return, you'll need a pressure regulator up front in the engine bay. Returns should always be one size or more larger than the supply line as not to load up the regulator diaphragm. With EFI the regulator goes after the throttle body in the return line, with carb before the inlet. I used this pump for 5 years then retired it when I went throttle body. It's quiet, reliable, low amp draw and mounts quite easily. 100 g.p.h. is quite good and that's rated with 5/16 line over 24 feet. I now use the old Carter to pump water, glycol and transmission fluid and it's still going strong. Having no drain plug, I've even used it to empty my fuel tank through the filler tube.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4600hp/overview/
 
I would sincerely consider electric but don't think for one moment anyone makes one below a 20 amp draw. 1/4 inch line is fine for supply but if you want to add a return, you'll need a pressure regulator up front in the engine bay. Returns should always be one size or more larger than the supply line as not to load up the regulator diaphragm. With EFI the regulator goes after the throttle body in the return line, with carb before the inlet. I used this pump for 5 years then retired it when I went throttle body. It's quiet, reliable, low amp draw and mounts quite easily. 100 g.p.h. is quite good and that's rated with 5/16 line over 24 feet. I now use the old Carter to pump water, glycol and transmission fluid and it's still going strong. Having no drain plug, I've even used it to empty my fuel tank through the filler tube.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4600hp/overview/
Just going off of what they say in the catalog, 3amps does sound mighty low. Thanks, I'll be looking into it.
 
I bought a stock mechanical pump from NAPA for about $35, 2 years ago, and it's still working great! It supplies my six pack with plenty of fuel! The stock pump has plenty of volume and pressure for most street engines. Remember, an electric is going to be noisy! I have used an electric with a nitrous system, and we used the stock supply line coming out of the tank.
 
The P4070 carter only needs a 5 amp fuse and full load should only draw 2 to 3 amps
under the car on a hot summer day the over heat so think of cooling
If possible run mechanical but for backup plumb in an electric
like a spare tire then you will not need it
 
Carter on mine for over 10 years with no problems, before that a Holley with no problems, only reason I swapped was to lower the pressure a bit and the Holley is still on the shelf waiting.
Can't figure out why your killing pumps other than the pushrod, but even that doesn't make sense.
 
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