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Fuel System Questions

64plymouth

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I'm updating fuel system on my 64 Plymouth. It is a strip/Street car 505 maxwedge clone should run 10.50s. The system I have now is stock tank with sump welded in 8an braided hose to fuel filter screen type not sure of micron size to a Mallory 140 pump 1/2 aluminum line to Mallory return regulator 6an braided to 2 eddy 750 and 8an return to tank. I have had issues with stock tank and holding steady fuel pressure. I put this all in 20 years ago and with a 440 ran a best of 10.86. The update plan fuel cell, summit billet pump, new regulator, new fuel line and rewire. My questions are should I run return style regulator if so same size line as feed line? What size filter before pump? Should I run filters after reg before carbs? If so what micron size. Thanks Mike
 
I used a 1/2" return line. My supply is 1/2" & #8 . I use 2 #8 to the Dominator. Maybe overkill. The 140 Mallory pump is great. About 700 HP.
 
Iran the Mallory pump and return regulator years ago on my 63 Dodge. Always had an issue with pressure creep. Even bored the return hole in the regulator. Best fix. Mount the return regulator near the cell so it returns directly to the tank. Use a single line to the front. standard dead head regulator up front set the rear regulator at higher psi. Simpler, cheaper, lighter, works better.
Doug
 
I'm updating fuel system on my 64 Plymouth. It is a strip/Street car 505 maxwedge clone should run 10.50s. The system I have now is stock tank with sump welded in 8an braided hose to fuel filter screen type not sure of micron size to a Mallory 140 pump 1/2 aluminum line to Mallory return regulator 6an braided to 2 eddy 750 and 8an return to tank. I have had issues with stock tank and holding steady fuel pressure. I put this all in 20 years ago and with a 440 ran a best of 10.86. The update plan fuel cell, summit billet pump, new regulator, new fuel line and rewire. My questions are should I run return style regulator if so same size line as feed line? What size filter before pump? Should I run filters after reg before carbs? If so what micron size. Thanks Mike
I used Jegs Pro flow 350 braided hose on mine. 10AN from the pump and 8AN back to the fuel cell, NHRA legal. Got tired of dealing with stainless hose. Also many using aluminum line.
 
Iran the Mallory pump and return regulator years ago on my 63 Dodge. Always had an issue with pressure creep. Even bored the return hole in the regulator. Best fix. Mount the return regulator near the cell so it returns directly to the tank. Use a single line to the front. standard dead head regulator up front set the rear regulator at higher psi. Simpler, cheaper, lighter, works better.
Doug
That is a good idea. My fuel pressure was always changing up and down. What are your thoughts on fuel filters?
 
Personally never run one before the pump. My current racecar has a huge reusable filter. It's been apart for cleaning twice in 8 years over 700 passes. The amount of debris was so minimal it really was more just an inspection. Really didn't even need maintenance. Carbs have always looked great as well. Bowls never have anything in them. This was running Renegade 114 or VP C14. As long as it doesn't restrict, I'd say your good. This is the current setup with return.
Doug

DSC_3800.JPG 20210308_174359.jpg
 
Personally never run one before the pump. My current racecar has a huge reusable filter. It's been apart for cleaning twice in 8 years over 700 passes. The amount of debris was so minimal it really was more just an inspection. Really didn't even need maintenance. Carbs have always looked great as well. Bowls never have anything in them. This was running Renegade 114 or VP C14. As long as it doesn't restrict, I'd say your good. This is the current setup with return.
Doug

View attachment 1083047 View attachment 1083051
Beautiful! What is second line out of cell on bottom?
 
Reading this post with the fuel system is pretty much the exact way I started out, except no return fuel line. I had all sorts is issues, with the stock tank and sump the pressure was all over the place. Long story short, I did a flow test at the regulator with that system and I wasn’t getting enough fuel volume through to meet the rule of thumb requirement for my car HP, times, potential.
No more fuel issues over here, this is what I run now: Still a deadhead system. Fuel cell. #10 line from the fuel cell to the fuel regulator in engine compartment. A2000 Aeromotive 350GPH pump, MagnaFuel regulator up front. I also have a 100 micron filter before the pump, a 10 micron after the pump and a return line to the fuel cell from the pump that is located beside the cell. A flow test with my current set up far exceeds my needs.
 
Magna fuel 500 with filter, -12 from cell to pump, -10 from pump to regulator and -6 from the 4 port regulator to the 2 carbs. Dead head system.
 
Reading this post with the fuel system is pretty much the exact way I started out, except no return fuel line. I had all sorts is issues, with the stock tank and sump the pressure was all over the place. Long story short, I did a flow test at the regulator with that system and I wasn’t getting enough fuel volume through to meet the rule of thumb requirement for my car HP, times, potential.
No more fuel issues over here, this is what I run now: Still a deadhead system. Fuel cell. #10 line from the fuel cell to the fuel regulator in engine compartment. A2000 Aeromotive 350GPH pump, MagnaFuel regulator up front. I also have a 100 micron filter before the pump, a 10 micron after the pump and a return line to the fuel cell from the pump that is located beside the cell. A flow test with my current set up far exceeds my needs.
I plan on putting in fuel cell. I know the fuel test by running into a gallon gas can and timing it. What kind of numbers should look for?
 
I plan on putting in fuel cell. I know the fuel test by running into a gallon gas can and timing it. What kind of numbers should look for?
—-
The general rule of thumb for a 10 second car is one gallon of fuel in 25 seconds. When I checked mine I was barely over a half gallon in 30 seconds. That was with the Aeromotive 140 GPH pump and #8 line.
After I upgraded to the larger pump, #10 line and a MagnaFuel Regulator I was a full gallon in under 25 seconds. Now my fuel pressure gauge is rock solid. Like 66 Satellite did, I have #8 lines into the carb. I probably followed his lead on that. The MagnaFuel regulator that I use has #8 outlets.

I had also switched to a 1050 Dominator and found that jet extensions are a must. After installing those the 60’s got better and I carried the wheels further. I also installed larger needle / seats.

F734F3DB-B3AD-49FD-8BA2-3DF792BC5FB6.jpeg


588CCB9A-EE09-46C1-8298-18ACD3DCAF9F.jpeg
 
—-
The general rule of thumb for a 10 second car is one gallon of fuel in 25 seconds. When I checked mine I was barely over a half gallon in 30 seconds. That was with the Aeromotive 140 GPH pump and #8 line.
After I upgraded to the larger pump, #10 line and a MagnaFuel Regulator I was a full gallon in under 25 seconds. Now my fuel pressure gauge is rock solid. Like 66 Satellite did, I have #8 lines into the carb. I probably followed his lead on that. The MagnaFuel regulator that I use has #8 outlets.

I had also switched to a 1050 Dominator and found that jet extensions are a must. After installing those the 60’s got better and I carried the wheels further. I also installed larger needle / seats.

View attachment 1084234

View attachment 1084235
Thanks for the info. I plan on doing test when I get fuel cell and then figure out what to do next. Love Your Car by the Way!
 
All my racecars have had a return style regulator
we always set them flowing never had any issues
far less heat in the pumps too, my 6.69 @ 217 T/S
or my old 68 RR went 8.58 @156, to my street/strip cars
anything with carburetors

(My mentality or thinking, I took it out of the mech. FI playbook
(even the newest & state of the art latest EFI or direct injection does too)
feed it way more than it will even use, always have enough on hand
& always bypassing off the fuel/fuel it couldn't use, send it back to the tank,
like most all real fast professional racecars fuel systems are, was my thinking)

sorry
that sounded a bit condescending, it wasn't meant to be

I've used it in many different pump combos
CNC P/S pump 500+gpm, Magnafuel to old Barry Grant style pumps
even the ol' dual Holley Blue 110 (or red) Black 120-150 pumps
all have had a bypass style regulator, sending unused fuel back to tank/cell
electric pumps seem to last longer, not deadheading them
even on all my N2O systems, I have used the bypass style regulators
flowing pressure is better, in my experience

Your results may vary
Obviously, some others may have a different take &/or opinions on it
or maybe think it's overkill, or it's not necessary
But;
I find something that works & I stick with it...

My current street/strip car, street-beast
more of corner carver in search of a straightaway
has an
Aeromotive SS 175gph 1/2" or #8AN feed/draw
drawn thru an Aeromotive 100 micron canister style filter
up in the shock well
feeding a 1/2" or #8AN line to the pump down near the pass side frame rail
down by the leaf springs sort of, line out of it,
all the way to front of the car
to a Holley (was Aeromotive) bypass style regulator
then a 10-micron inline filter, before the #6AN feeding the 6bbl
with a 1/4" or #4AN return all the way back to the tank
thru the center of the org, style 1/2" MRE sending unit,
where the vapor return line org. was, dumps it back into the tank
(haven't noticed any aeration or loss of pressure)

I didn't want to cut the car or put a cell in it
so it has a stock type fuel tank

It's not an ideal set up for a racecar,
it's not a whole lot different other than cell vs tank
but for what I'm doing it's great
made quite a few passes WOT, long, long wide-open stretches
& TNT drag tests too
it didn't & hasn't fluctuated at all
had 7psi all the way from idle to 6,200
(more the Hyd Roller cam limitation, it will pull to 7,000)
it's been trouble-free since 2005
except for
the Aeromotive bypass-reg messed up, after 10 years
for some reason, I didn't take it apart to see why
I just installed a Holley bypass one I had on the shelf,
was back up running

I hope some of that helps
 
Last edited:
All my racecars have had a return style regulator
we always set them flowing never had any issues
far less heat in the pumps too, my 6.69 @ 217 T/S
or my old 68 RR went 8.58 @156, to my street/strip cars
anything with carburetors

(My mentality or thinking, I took it out of the mech. FI playbook
(even the newest & state of the art latest EFI or direct injection does too)
feed it way more than it will even use, always have enough on hand
& always bypassing off the fuel/fuel it couldn't use, send it back to the tank,
like most all real fast professional racecars fuel systems are, was my thinking)

sorry
that sounded a bit condescending, it wasn't meant to be

I've used it in many different pump combos
CNC P/S pump 500+gpm, Magnafuel to old Barry Grant style pumps
even the ol' dual Holley Blue 110 (or red) Black 120-150 pumps
all have had a bypass style regulator, sending unused fuel back to tank/cell
electric pumps seem to last longer, not deadheading them
even on all my N2O systems, I have used the bypass style regulators
flowing pressure is better, in my experience

Your results may vary
Obviously, some others may have a different take &/or opinions on it
or maybe think it's overkill, or it's not necessary
But;
I find something that works & I stick with it...

My current street/strip car, street-beast
more of corner carver in search of a straightaway
has an
Aeromotive SS 175gph 1/2" or #8AN feed/draw
drawn thru an Aeromotive 100 micron canister style filter
up in the shock well
feeding a 1/2" or #8AN line to the pump down near the pass side frame rail
down by the leaf springs sort of, line out of it,
all the way to front of the car
to a Holley (was Aeromotive) bypass style regulator
then a 10-micron inline filter, before the #6AN feeding the 6bbl
with a 1/4" or #4AN return all the way back to the tank
thru the center of the org, style 1/2" MRE sending unit,
where the vapor return line org. was, dumps it back into the tank
(haven't noticed any aeration or loss of pressure)

I didn't want to cut the car or put a cell in it
so it has a stock type fuel tank

It's not an ideal set up for a racecar,
it's not a whole lot different other than cell vs tank
but for what I'm doing it's great
made quite a few passes WOT, long, long wide-open stretches
& TNT drag tests too
it didn't & hasn't fluctuated at all
had 7psi all the way from idle to 6,200
(more the Hyd Roller cam limitation, it will pull to 7,000)
it's been trouble-free since 2005
except for
the Aeromotive bypass-reg messed up, after 10 years
for some reason, I didn't take it apart to see why
I just installed a Holley bypass one I had on the shelf,
was back up running

I hope some of that helps
I always thought a return style made the most sense. That is why I put it on car 20years ago. I think a good part of my problem was stock gas tank with sump. My plan is to install fuel cell to get proper supply to pump and then do volume test. Thanks everyone for advice.
 
I always thought a return style made the most sense. That is why I put it on car 20years ago. I think a good part of my problem was stock gas tank with sump. My plan is to install fuel cell to get proper supply to pump and then do volume test. Thanks everyone for advice.
All i can say about that is.... i changed from a aftermarket sumped stock tank to a fuel cell. Same pump, just plumbed different for the cell.
I picked up one full second.
 
All i can say about that is.... i changed from a aftermarket sumped stock tank to a fuel cell. Same pump, just plumbed different for the cell.
I picked up one full second.
I don't really expect to pick up that much. But be more consistent
 
I don't really expect to pick up that much. But be more consistent
—-
64 I predict that you’re going to accomplish both. Consistency and better ET. Did you get around to doing a flow test yet?
 
—-
64 I predict that you’re going to accomplish both. Consistency and better ET. Did you get around to doing a flow test yet?
I have only made 4 passes with this motor so far if I can run 10.50s that would be great! Going to hopefully do test this weekend. Question about test I can run just one out feed line from regulator to gas can or should I do both?
 
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