XMAN JR
Well-Known Member
I do body & paint in a 20x30 garage. My furnace stopped working & i have a 68 coronet i have to get painted. Any ideas ? Thanks
GARAGE HEAT HELP
- Thread starter XMAN JR
- Start date
Big Bad Dad
Well-Known Member
Those little oil filled electric "radiators" could be a safe heat source. About $40 each at big box stores. But by the time you bought enough to heat the garage, you might better spend the $ to fix the furnace?
Aarons Air
Well-Known Member
We need info, to help trouble shoot, if you plan to fix it yourself. Is it gas, oil, electric ? Does anything work ? Does the fan come on ? Does it start, and shut right back off ? Describe the symptoms.
Big Bad Dad
Well-Known Member
With flammable paint fumes all around? Uh, what could POSSIBLY go wrong?
69L48Z27
Well-Known Member
Pretty much every shop around here has a Modine hanging in it. I would hope he has some sort of booth setup to draft into. Heater would be outside that. Heater would not be in the booth.
My furnace stopped working....
repair the furnace...LOL...and insert more info, if you need help with repair.
Broken fan belt, worn out blower motor, out of fuel, fire eye faulty, oil pump seized, igniter fault, pressure switch calved, combustion air assembly worn out, thermopile damaged etc etc etc
And, I will be painting in my booth today
repair the furnace...LOL...and insert more info, if you need help with repair.
Broken fan belt, worn out blower motor, out of fuel, fire eye faulty, oil pump seized, igniter fault, pressure switch calved, combustion air assembly worn out, thermopile damaged etc etc etc
And, I will be painting in my booth today
XMAN JR
Well-Known Member
Its an old oil furnace. It starts up runs for about 2-4 minuts then shuts off. Looking for something to get my by for the winter. Once i get this job done i will have the money to repair or replace it. Cant have any thing with open flame. The furnace is in a separate room.
XMAN JR
Well-Known Member
Your ultra violet flame sensor, fire eye is bit the biscuit. Your ignition transformer, on top of the burner is hinged and swings back out of the way, for access to the ignitor rods and the flame sensor. Your controller has two thermostat leads, and the other two leads are the sensor.
Back in a flash, with a pic of the sensor..
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-In...29HBTE049QY&psc=1&refRID=NAEW828DP29HBTE049QY like 15.00
Back in a flash, with a pic of the sensor..
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-In...29HBTE049QY&psc=1&refRID=NAEW828DP29HBTE049QY like 15.00
Aarons Air
Well-Known Member
Flame sensor may not be bad, just dirty. Try cleaning it, before replacement.
Thinking the same, the fact that he states, two to four min, might just be dirty. However, if you have to travel to his shop, pick one up on the way!!!!
BeepBeepRR
Well-Known Member
Look at the schematic its usually on the cover. You can find several sensors in the drawing. I use a jumper wire to bypass each one until you figure out which one is causing the issue. I do them one at a time.
Flame Roll out sensor
Flame Probe.
Limit switch.
etc etc.
My friend had a furnace that would do the same thing his flame roll out switch was tripping. Turns out he had a massive amount of mouse **** clogging the heat exchanger. I looked in and it was glowing white hot. I cleaned it out and from that point it worked just fine. Smelled like burnt rat **** and piss for 2 days. Cleared up after that.
Flame Roll out sensor
Flame Probe.
Limit switch.
etc etc.
My friend had a furnace that would do the same thing his flame roll out switch was tripping. Turns out he had a massive amount of mouse **** clogging the heat exchanger. I looked in and it was glowing white hot. I cleaned it out and from that point it worked just fine. Smelled like burnt rat **** and piss for 2 days. Cleared up after that.
Aarons Air
Well-Known Member
Correct. If the eye can't " see" the flame, it will shut off. Just a wipe with a clean paper towel should do it.
mr. b
Well-Known Member
the nozzle could be clogged i had to replace mine works great now
Just had a though, check and clean the combustion air intake shutters on the burner, good chance they may be plugged up, as this is a shop unit. Do not open or adjust the setting placement they are set at. Xman, google the make, and model of the burner for reference.
Cleaning of this part of the assembly, is regular maintenance
Cleaning of this part of the assembly, is regular maintenance
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Yeah, just fix it. If you're uneasy with DIY, make the phone call.
I don't paint cars but I'm not fond of an open flame or glowing coils in my garage. That could be due to dads garage burning down way back.
My garage is only about 3600 cu ft, ceiling is 6" insulated, and a R13 rated 16 ft. door. I bought a 7500 watt Farenheat 4 or so years ago. It's wired for 6250 watts, corded, and hangs on a hook so I can move it if needed. It has no glowing coils and can keep temps at short sleeve easily when I want it. Lol, one good thing about a small garage. I probably only needed the 5000 watt model. Even those are running 300+ bucks right now. There may be other brands that heat similar. Dayton's model appears to be the same as Farenheat.
FWIW...
I don't paint cars but I'm not fond of an open flame or glowing coils in my garage. That could be due to dads garage burning down way back.
My garage is only about 3600 cu ft, ceiling is 6" insulated, and a R13 rated 16 ft. door. I bought a 7500 watt Farenheat 4 or so years ago. It's wired for 6250 watts, corded, and hangs on a hook so I can move it if needed. It has no glowing coils and can keep temps at short sleeve easily when I want it. Lol, one good thing about a small garage. I probably only needed the 5000 watt model. Even those are running 300+ bucks right now. There may be other brands that heat similar. Dayton's model appears to be the same as Farenheat.
Similar threads
