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GEAR VENDORS PROBLEMS

STORMIN NORMAN

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Mar 8, 2017
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Location
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Hello,

I am interested in information from those of you familiar with GEAR VENDORS OVERDRIVES

Do you have a problem ?

Do you have a vibration ?

What type of car installed in ?

What have you tried to fix the problem ?

Did you get the problem fixed ?

How did you fix it ?

Tips , comments , suggestions
 
I recently read a article, they said a lot of vibration problems are drive shaft balance/angle related. Gettting the pinion angle right at the rear end ect.
 
I have one in my GTX but it's not on the road yet.
 
put my Gear vendor in last year and just love it, No problems at All ! Vibrations ? is drive shaft or Pinion angle or Engine Balance. Cast or steel crank, do you have the right balancer on the Engine.
 
The GC unit extends the transmission's centerline making the driveshaft shorter and more susceptable to vibration issues. You need to verify the engine is sitting right in the car, then set your pinion angle properly. There is a very good chance the pinion angle is of already, but prior to the GV the drivesahft was able to work through it.
 
The GC unit extends the transmission's centerline making the driveshaft shorter and more susceptable to vibration issues. You need to verify the engine is sitting right in the car, then set your pinion angle properly. There is a very good chance the pinion angle is of already, but prior to the GV the drivesahft was able to work through it.


I have tried everything..engine balanced and blueprinted have checked and or repaired ----motor mounts trans mounts,drums,rims,tires,axles,axle bearings,complete rear housing,torque converter,tail shaft bushing , slip yoke , transmission disassembled and checked ( twice )...four different drive shafts ,u joints,slip yokes, checked and re checked pinion angle,exhaust,frame,gas tank ..( i know that sounds stupid but it was suggested ) checked engine and trans position disassembled and re blueprinted engine twice,
engine dyno on engine stand twice...car on chassis dyno twice .....vibration is coming exactly from end of gear vendor where the tail shaft is...vibration is at light throttle only at
VIBRATION is at 53 MPH and 2880 RPM in final gear 1 to 1 ratio @ 50 hz and measures IN THE CAR on the floor under drivers seat as .27G...it is a droning or cyclotronic vibration. and goes away at 56-57 MPH
VIBRATION measures .67g at the output of the gear vendors transmission right at the slip yoke
 
Hmm. I'm assuming you measured for the pinion angle in the vertical. Did you happen to check the horizontal? I had a customer I did a transmission for who had a driveline vibe. It was very faint but his other car's an M5... Solving it required getting the engine settled evenly on both pads (E body). He noticed the oil pan rail was not level over the centerlink by measuring everything. The engine looked even in the car from the top. The misalignment caused the tailshaft to point slightly down and to the side. The pinion couldn't move that way to cancel it out. Once the engine was leveled to the centerlink the vibe was gone. Granted it's grasping at straws but.. The next step is sending it back to GV.
 
Hmm. I'm assuming you measured for the pinion angle in the vertical. Did you happen to check the horizontal? I had a customer I did a transmission for who had a driveline vibe. It was very faint but his other car's an M5... Solving it required getting the engine settled evenly on both pads (E body). He noticed the oil pan rail was not level over the centerlink by measuring everything. The engine looked even in the car from the top. The misalignment caused the tailshaft to point slightly down and to the side. The pinion couldn't move that way to cancel it out. Once the engine was leveled to the centerlink the vibe was gone. Granted it's grasping at straws but.. The next step is sending it back to GV.


have done and redone driveline angles every way i can think as i was instructed to stop worrying about angles and figure out what it takes to make it go away...

I have attached a drawing of my drive line angles

IMG_3456.JPG
 
If you want to fix it, you have to look at all angles. If you have measured and replaced everything else you noted above it's all about the angles. So whoever said ignore them is not someone interested in figuring out your problem.
As I noted above - pinion angle when we normally discuss it pertains to the relationship of the angles "up" and "down" of the output shaft (trans) and the pinion gear (axle). Your sheet shows that up and down difference and how to fix with a shim (which is the correct approach).
BUT
There can is also a "side-to-side" relationship that is the same deal. If the transmission's output shaft is not pointed really, really close to exactly straight back at the pinion, there is no way to adjust the pinion to offset that and remove the vibration. The solution in that case is to move the engine via the brackets and mounts to remove that side-to-side misalignment. My comment above about the E body was just that: the engine sat higher on one side, and because the mounting points are not inline with the crank's centerline, that inequality pushed the tailshaft's direction sideways a little. Only a few degrees. That was enough to develop the harmonic he felt. That was found after pulling down the transmission 2-3 times, aligning the bell housing, replacing mounts, having the driveshaft balanced ad rebalanced, U joints replaced, etc etc etc.
 
I think Hot Rod had a article in the last few months where they fix readers rides. He had a vibration problem similar to your that he had spent years trying to fix. They were able to correct it. Angles were the culprit. You might try to find it. They stated that shorter driveshafts tend to exaggerate the problems.
 
I think Hot Rod had a article in the last few months where they fix readers rides. He had a vibration problem similar to your that he had spent years trying to fix. They were able to correct it. Angles were the culprit. You might try to find it. They stated that shorter driveshafts tend to exaggerate the problems.
Thats the article I saw too. On my car with the GV, it appears to be pointing below the pinion. The next time I slip the engine/trans unit in to check things I'll put one of my laser bore sight units on the output shaft to verify. If its like I believe it is, I'll be looking into that same type of shaft they used on that e-body.
 
have done and redone driveline angles every way i can think as i was instructed to stop worrying about angles and figure out what it takes to make it go away...

I have attached a drawing of my drive line angles

View attachment 406959
The way you have it drawn, the net pinion angle is zero. Guaranteed to vibrate.
 
If I remember right they the recomened 2.5-3 degrees, does that sound right Hemirunner?
 
One thing I saw on MOPARTS was that some people were having weird shift issues due to electrical problems. I talked to the GV man at the Del Mar Goodguys show about that and he said with sketchy older wiring being used to power the GV can give people grief and its also a vey good idea to isolate the GV wiring, physically and electrically, from anything else. Potential for RFI related stuff.
 
Cass at Dr. Differential told me the easiest way to set up pinion angle on a leafed spring set up is to find the angle of the engine / trans and set the pinion angle to 2 degrees down from that because of axle windup. He told me to ignore the driveshaft angle. With that in mind and your measurements, it appears to me if you took the 1.8 degree shim out you would be in the ball park. Your drawing looks to be exactly at what you want under load so I would drop the pinion a degree or two and see how it acts.
 
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