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Gen III Engine Starter and 68’ Factory Steering Conflict

Thomas O’Brien

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Hi All,

Question for the group regarding my 68’ B-Body and 5.7L and automation transmission swap.

I put my 06’ Charger 5.7L and NAG1, 5 speed automatic transmission into my 68’ B-Body with stock K-Member, steering and suspension.

I now have an engine starter (that’s on the passenger side of the car) conflict with the steering (idler arm) and can’t go back and replace the K-Member for a new one (example, Magnum Force setup)

Please let me know how you have resolved this issue in your car. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated!

17CCBA95-A006-45AC-B792-CEFAE6EF7F29.jpeg
 
Doesnt that combo have provisions for a right side or left side starter? I believe a 545frfe starter in a jeep is on the left side.
Doug
 
If DVW's idea wont work,
I can only throw some ideas at you, without seeing it.
What engine mounts are being used?
Are you able to add shims or use different, taller mounts?

I know the TA/AAR E bodies used a quick ratio pitman arm, I can not remember if the idler arm was also different, perhaps it may change the throw enough to not hit, but it may also work the other way, and make it worse.

Pictures will help.


BTW, LOVE those valve covers!
Your engine is looking very nice!!!
I have a gen3 going in a truck, and I love the look of your engine, with hidden coils, and plug wires!
did you use eagle heads, or an adaptor to make 6.1 intake fit?
Good luck !
 
Doesnt that combo have provisions for a right side or left side starter? I believe a 545frfe starter in a jeep is on the left side.
Doug
Good question, I’ll take a look and see if it has a driver side stater option. I’ll also check out the Jeep starter! Thanks for your input!
 
If DVW's idea wont work,
I can only throw some ideas at you, without seeing it.
What engine mounts are being used?
Are you able to add shims or use different, taller mounts?

I know the TA/AAR E bodies used a quick ratio pitman arm, I can not remember if the idler arm was also different, perhaps it may change the throw enough to not hit, but it may also work the other way, and make it worse.

Pictures will help.


BTW, LOVE those valve covers!
Your engine is looking very nice!!!
I have a gen3 going in a truck, and I love the look of your engine, with hidden coils, and plug wires!
did you use eagle heads, or an adaptor to make 6.1 intake fit?
Good luck !

I’ll check to see which motor mount conversion kit was installed, and see if shimming the motor up works. And check out an E-Body pitman arm from a TA / AAR.

FYI, got the valve covers from the Crank Shop in Vermont. They make them too for the 6.1L. Putting the coil packs up and out of the way does costs more but so worth it! Thanks for your input!
 
E body quick ratio uses the same idler arm.
Doug
 
Thomas, did you ever find a fix? I'm having the same issue...
PXL_20210117_011007372.jpg
 
I think I should be good to go now. I made a thick aluminum plate spacer between the rubber isolator and the Holley mount adaptor plate. I now have about 1/4" clearance. It's really only close when turned a good bit to the left in a small portion of that idler arm arc. Lots of room with the wheel straight. I'm also going to make some torque straps on both rubber mounts to help stabilize the engine just in case. Running a stock 5.7 and tr6060.
PXL_20210118_014221019.jpg
 
Hi All,

Question for the group regarding my 68’ B-Body and 5.7L and automation transmission swap.

I put my 06’ Charger 5.7L and NAG1, 5 speed automatic transmission into my 68’ B-Body with stock K-Member, steering and suspension.

I now have an engine starter (that’s on the passenger side of the car) conflict with the steering (idler arm) and can’t go back and replace the K-Member for a new one (example, Magnum Force setup)

Please let me know how you have resolved this issue in your car. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated!

View attachment 973349

Not to hijack but whose valve covers are those?
 
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