Getting ready to install six pack......any tips?

Fuel and Air Systems

  1. chucklbunny

    chucklbunny Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,
    I'm getting ready to install my six pack setup I received from Herb's Parts and I have a couple of questions.

    1: Do I have to install the choke cup under the choke thermostat or do I just bolt it to the manifold?
    2: What do I torque the carbs too? (I'm using studs instead of bolts)
    3: Does anyone have instructions I can print out when I do the install ?

    And I'm looking for any tips or tricks you guys have to make this go as easy as possible , I'm also looking for anything I need to keep an eye out for or issues to avoid.

    Thanks!
     
  2. hanks73340

    hanks73340 Well-Known Member

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    Corona Gold.........what??.....I looked at the title of this thread....:D:drinks:
     
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    • chucklbunny

      chucklbunny Well-Known Member

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      :lol:
       
    • davek

      davek FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      You will be fine,easy install I just snug down the stud bolts. Warning you will never want to go back to a 4 barrel :thumbsup: Vac or mechanical outboards?
       
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      • chucklbunny

        chucklbunny Well-Known Member

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        Vacuum outboards !
         
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        • davek

          davek FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          get the fuel line all together before you tighten it up I used plumbing tape on the threads,I didnt have the cup on mine.
           
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          • davek

            davek FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            2a79aeb9b891079f09763fd2928461f9.jpg

            upload_2019-4-13_21-31-34.jpeg
             
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            • davek

              davek FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              also I did not have the solenoid on mine and I lived in NY and S Carolina no problems. upload_2019-4-13_21-48-50.jpeg
               
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              • Demonic

                Demonic Well-Known Member

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                The fuel lines do not seal on the threads, they seal on the flare, like all flare tube does. Teflon tape can cause trouble the second time you put it together. The bits stay in the female fitting side, then clog the needle and seat. Not really necessary.
                 
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                • greycharger

                  greycharger Well-Known Member

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                  Teflon and sealant are not for sealing. If your threads are cut to correct depths and the fittings assembled properly, that is your seal. Teflon and such are lubricants, as is oil.
                   
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                  • Cornpatch MO

                    Cornpatch MO Well-Known Member

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                    A large air cleaner will not clear a 2 speed wiper motor....MO
                     
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                    • 66Satellite47

                      66Satellite47 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      Stock 6 Pak's ran poorly. That is why in the mid '70's they were very inexpensive to acquire. A very few mods make them great. PM me.
                       
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                      • kiwigtx

                        kiwigtx International Mod Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        Use a little filter oil when screwing the flare nuts together with the lines....a small amount of soluble lubricant will not harm the engine, or block the carbs.
                         
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                        • Demonic

                          Demonic Well-Known Member

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                          Share it here, I'm interested as well.
                           
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                          • dla4567

                            dla4567 Well-Known Member

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                            I use a thin coat of vacuum grease on the carb gaskets. Helps to seal and come apart easily. (Sometimes with a six pack, carbs get removed and reinstalled several times.)
                             
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                            • BSB67

                              BSB67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                              My "original" carbs purchased in the mid 1970's ran flawlessly OOTB. They et and mph a little better with slight tweaking.
                               
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                              • 66Satellite47

                                66Satellite47 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                                You were one of the few near as I can tell. Were those OEM or the Holley aftermarket?
                                 
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                                • 66Satellite47

                                  66Satellite47 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                                  The main thing for me, especially with the '69 1/2 carbs was take the plugs out of end carb idle mixture screws & richen them about 1/2 turn & put a screw in the slot so at full throttle on the center carb, the end carbs crack a little bit. The '70 carb end carb jet plates seemed just about right, 2 numbers up in the center & maybe 2 numbers on the squirter. Try the different springs in the end carbs & see what it likes. I had the aluminum manifold, never played with the iron version.
                                   
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                                  • 62MAX

                                    62MAX Well-Known Member

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                                    Everything you said other than the screw in the center carb linkage,but thats your choice.However once you get it working right,you'll never go back !

                                    Picture 344.jpg
                                     
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                                    • 66Satellite47

                                      66Satellite47 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                                      The screw in the linkage was my "fail safe" to get them just cracked. So many of the early stuff would stick then pop open. With a little tweaking 6 Paks were great. Now I'm kicking myself for selling the last one I had.
                                       
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