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Glazed cyl walls?

Garys1969RR

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Just got thus 496 apart, and the walls look pretty shiny to me. Motor was losing a lot of compression past the rings. Can you tell from pics if this was the Prob?
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id deffo look at the piston rings on the pistons esp that 3rd pic one.
the pattern almost looks like the rings were Not closing on end gap,
and maybe not even lined up correctly,ie,
it looks like all the rings gaps were in the same area which is wrong.
gapped wrong,and maybe set wrong too.
might wanna break out the calipers and measure all the bores too.
did you do an Actual compression test before teardown?
 
Only ran low 11s, should have been in the tens. 496 Valiant. Going to use a 400 block, instead of a 383.
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yeah you can run real good times with just a small block so that stroker...yeah.
do you have the pistons laying around with the rings still on them?
grab a pic or 3 of them and where the ring ends/gaps are.
 
Yeah, cylinder #4 looks scuffed "north & south" and cylinder #6 looks that way too. And WOW....now, THAT's blow-by
 
Some ring flutter... and what appears(hard to see for sure from Pics), to be some Oil Ring Shadowing which may have exacerbated the flutter ?
Did this thing huff any Oil ?
 
Was this engine block fully tested and machined by a race engine shop with a clearance sheet? Who's rotating assy, and was it fully measured also. How many runs has been put on it?
 
Some ring flutter... and what appears(hard to see for sure from Pics), to be some Oil Ring Shadowing which may have exacerbated the flutter ?
Did this thing huff any Oil ?
Wasn't burning any oil, but we could see oil seeping out of the front seal/cover gasket after each run. After we increased crankcase venting, that seepage decreased. Still a little bit, though.
 
Was this engine block fully tested and machined by a race engine shop with a clearance sheet? Who's rotating assy, and was it fully measured also. How many runs has been put on it?
Not sure on the machine shop. We bought the car complete, 2 years ago, from a lady whose husband had died. 440 source 496 stroker kit, 383 block, Stealth heads, roller cam and rockers. We put 25 or 30 runs on it, and realized it had alot of blowby. Ran good, sounded good. Looks to be very little wear on any of the parts, other than the cyl walls and some bearing wear.
 
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Going to use the bottom end, cam, gear drive, and Milodon oil system on the 512. By the way, there was no oil pick up inside the block. Only the single external line feeding the outer end of the oil pump. Is that right?
 
Yes, it has been converted to an outside oil pickup system for better volume to the pump. Look at the Milodon website for details. Many people use that same system, me included.
 
Good, thank you. The one I used years ago had a dual feed, to the bottom and top of the pump rotors.
 
If all eight holes still measure up, I'd consider 5-6 strokes with a ball hone, and see what those vertical lines look like. Can they be felt with a fingernail? What type rings are you planning to use?
 
If all eight holes still measure up, I'd consider 5-6 strokes with a ball hone, and see what those vertical lines look like. Can they be felt with a fingernail? What type rings are you planning to use?
Well at this point we are going to use a 400 block, build a 512. Will just need new pistons. All the other parts can be used in the 512. Will use the rings 440 Source sells. Total seals. Moly ring I think.
 
Make sure wall are prepped correctly for the rings then
Scrub the walls with soap and water until the soap stays white all grit removed
blow dry and oil so no rust
 
Make sure wall are prepped correctly for the rings then
Scrub the walls with soap and water until the soap stays white all grit removed
blow dry and oil so no rust
OK, I didn't assemble this motor. Never had a problem getting the rings to seal on any motor I've ever built. This motor was running way rich with the 1050 Dominator carb when I got it. We leaned it out, and it was still on the rich side. LOL. That may have contributed to the original owners failure to get the rings to seal properly. You could rotate the motor, and hear all the compression leak past the rings within 1 second. My RV motor takes 4 to 5 seconds to leak down when you bump it over.
 
with that kind of leakdown,i still think that the rings were set wrong and not gapped right either.
looks like they set the gaps to the outside of the block,
which is where the load would be on a stroker,thereby making it weardown and leak even faster.

everything else yove said about the motor leads me to that conclusion.
great motor when built,just assembled wrong.

glad you arent reusing the block at this point,as id wager the bore will be out of taper.
jmo.
 
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