Global west suspension subframe connectors

[1967coronet440]

Hey guys,

Just ordered a set of global west subframe connectors wondering if anyone's running these, they look nice and have good reviews,they are the tubular style. Also if anyone wants to give me any tips for installing this is my first time installing connectors.

Thank you

 

[ChargerM440]

I put a set of those on my charger. Pretty straight forward install and the instructions were nice and clear. I think the most important part of installing sub frames on a finished car is also the most tricky part. It's important to make sure your suspension is setup right where you like it before you start. Then weld up the connectors with the car at ride height and weight on wheels.

 

[1967coronet440]

I put a set of those on my charger. Pretty straight forward install and the instructions were nice and clear. I think the most important part of installing sub frames on a finished car is to make sure your suspension is setup right where you like it before hand. Then weld up the connectors with the car at ride height with weight on wheels.

You confirmed my earlier thought, I was going to install this weekend but currently the car is on jack stands with no motor trans or rear end in, I'll wait until I get everything back in to install. Thank you

 

[Mike67]

Make sure you have your doors closed tight, especially if doing it on a lift. The car will be flexed and could cause some alignment issues...
I would recommend having the car blocked up under its wheels until you get some good tacks on it to minimize the deflection.

 

[ChargerM440]

You confirmed my earlier thought, I was going to install this weekend but currently the car is on jack stands with no motor trans or rear end in, I'll wait until I get everything back in to install. Thank you

I'm glad I could help. However, I replied assuming that you were installing on a finished car (full drivetrain installed). If that was the case then having the suspension fully loaded is MANDATORY.

Honestly, I don't have any experience installing connectors on stripped car and don't want to give you a bum steer if you're ready to get welding. I know a lot of shops install sub frames and roll cages to stiffen the chassis before the driveline goes in and prefer to do it that way. I don't believe there to be any real measurable difference between installing now as opposed to later. The one thing you don't want is to have all that weight in the car being supported unevenly and end up with a tweaked subframe.

 

[1967coronet440]

Make sure you have your doors closed tight, especially if doing it on a lift. The car will be flexed and could cause some alignment issues...
I would recommend having the car blocked up under its wheels until you get some good tacks on it to minimize the deflection.

Thanks for the response, I was thinking have the weight of the car supported on jack stands, 2 in the front under control arms, and 2 on th rear end

 

[Mike67]

I took some scrap 2x6s and built raised platforms that are about 12"-14" tall which allowed me plenty of room to slide around underneath.

 

[1967coronet440]

I took some scrap 2x6s and built raised platforms that are about 12"-14" tall which allowed me plenty of room to slide around underneath.

View attachment 396364

What kind of shocks and springs are in the front?

 

[Mike67]

Lol! Thats my wifes mustang I built a couple of years ago.... Those are Global West springs and I went with KYB shocks...

 

[1967coronet440]

Lol! Thats my wifes mustang I built a couple of years ago.... Those are Global West springs and I went with KYB shocks...

Oh ok lol, I need to tackle front suspension next. Have my street lynx scheduled for deliver this weekend got my connectors. Looking for a nice coilover to run in the front. Might go with the Viking double adjustable, that's what comes with the 4 link

 

[5.7 hemi]

No need to wait for engine/trans to be installed. Get the car level, front/rear and side to side. Doors on or off will not make a difference. Once you determine that your as level as possible, start fitting, when happy, tack weld. Then you can burn them in.

 

[1967coronet440]

No need to wait for engine/trans to be installed. Get the car level, front/rear and side to side. Doors on or off will not make a difference. Once you determine that your as level as possible, start fitting, when happy, tack weld. Then you can burn them in.

Thank you, I appreciate the response.

 

[Banzaiii67]

FWIW.. I also have Global West Frame connectors. I installed them with ramps on all four sides.

 

[1967coronet440]

FWIW.. I also have Global West Frame connectors. I installed them with ramps on all four sides.

Did you weld to the floor pans? From the pictures I see it doesn't seem that the tubes would ride up against the floor pans close enough to weld there

 

[Mike67]

They weld to the frame not the pans...

 

[1967coronet440]

They weld to the frame not the pans...

The mopar performance connectors weld to the floor correct? They're the box style and ride right up against the pans. I've seen people weld them style

 

[1967coronet440]

Also what are your guys thoughts on undercoating, the whole bottom of my car is covered in it and I think it looks like ****. I was thinking of getting under there with a wire wheel and scraping it off and coating it with some chassis black paint. I figured now would be the best time since everything is out of the car

 

[Mike67]

The global west are round, I've installed 3-4 on different cars and have never done that. Doesnt really serve a purpose that I see and unless you have a very flat pan would be more work than I could imagine.
Once installed you could have anywhere from. 1/4" - 1" gap between the pan and the connector...

 

[1967coronet440]

The global west are round, I've installed 3-4 on different cars and have never done that. Doesnt really serve a purpose that I see and unless you have a very flat pan would be more work than I could imagine.
Once installed you could have anywhere from. 1/4" - 1" gap between the pan and the connector...

Thanks for the advice mike, I appreciate it

 

[Mike67]

I'm about 90% done with removing my undercoating, use a heat gun and a scrapper worked great! Also picked up a needle scaler for the really hard stuff and getting in to tight spaces.
I'm going back with Raptor bed liner and using chassis black on my frame and cage.
Using a heat gun is a lot cleaner, for you and your shop!!! lol!
That's what I did on my wifes car