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Going to give the Evan's HP coolant a try

bigmanjbmopar

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Seems to be a good solution for water based coolants that eventually break down and begin to corrode also would be nice to know that no pressure will build up and cause an issue. It's pricey and I hope it works, trying the flush system first to. got it all on ebay total $168 for 3 gallons of coolant and 1 gallon of flush. but they are saying I will never have to change the coolant again. Anyone using this now?

http://www.evanscooling.com/products/high-performance-coolant
 
Interested in this myself. Watched a few youtube videos and seems expensive but impressive. Will be watching for your updates.
 
I use it in my '83 Mercedes and it works great. You may also want to get the refractometer so you can make sure that the prep fluid has removed all the water, and to verify that the final solution does not exceed the water content, which I believe is 3%. I also have it in my standby generator with its Yanmar engine. The real benefit to it IMO is that it runs at zero pressure, which removes the fatigue factor from the radiator and heater core, and virtually eliminates the possibility that you'll blow a hose on a hot day. The next one to get it is my '66 hemi Coronet. I just have to replenish my supply and wait for the next nice day.

I'm surprised that I've never seen an Evans rep. at Carlisle, it would be a perfect place to market the product. They do, however, have a policy of not wanting to sidestep their dealers.
 
I have had a nice supply of ordinary antifreeze and might change over to this product once the antifreeze is used up but I've been running 7 lb caps for many many years now. Just now replaced the upper hoses on my 2000 Durango because the plastic filler fitting broke but my 95 Dakota is still running it's original hoses. Not only does high pressure kill them but so does any oil that leaks on them and is allowed to stay and collect dirt etc.
 
The lower pressure cap helps a lot too. That's what I run on my 2003 Ram with no issue at all. If you really need a 15# cap to keep the cooling system in check, you have other issues that should be addressed. The only exception to that opinion that I'm aware of is some newer vehicles that are designed to run at or over the boiling point of water.
 
I just installed Evans today. Ran 3-gal of Evans Prep Fluid first (yesterday) and let it warm up. Drained it today and refilled the original containers since it can be reused, maybe by a friend. Today I put in a total of 3-gal; 1-gal first and started the engine then poured a little at a time as the thermostat opened. I'll check the level cold tomorrow. Anyway I let it warm up to 230-DegF indicated, the electric fan kicked on and the temp dropped some. Seems stable and the upper hose does not pressurize just like Evan's says. I'm still a ways from taking her out on her maiden voyage, still finishing the interior. Been in resto since 2012.
 
Well got the stuff in there now just need to run it hard tomorrow and see it in action. Was hard to get the old stuff out. even with the flush system the block still had a lot left in it. Tried to blow out the lines just made a mess everywhere lol. think I got all the 50/50 mix out. the evans stuff looks gold / orangish kind of clear. Not sure what will happen if there is any green stuff or water left? but oh well guess I'll find out.


Once all it was topped off so I think it is. Temps on the gauges went up to 190-200 pretty much stayed there after the stat opened the first time temps dropped to 170-180° then after that it stayed at 195-200 but never went past that for 20 minutes. motor seemed to get hotter than the the coolant in the radiator so I'm think there is some sort of balancing that needs to happen or I have an air pocket.

One thing I noticed is you can pull the cap off without any pressure present. that was nice real nice indeed.

Put in a new 180° stat and added a spring to the lower hose just for shitz & giggles. Stat is a new super stat with a relief built in. compared to a standard stat it is more open but small in diameter.

Will update tomorrow
 
Ok, so went out on a short drive, watched the temp gauges closely, saw during idle temps go to 200 then when taking off drop to 180 the rise back up to 200 once at around 45-50 mph then would drop a little to 195, this happened about at every stop light.

Not used to temps bouncing around so seems weird. Got home, checked to level, when opening the cap hot there was just a little blurp of air but no back pressure behind it was a bit unnerving at first but no big.

Topped off the level just because I had some left out of the 3 gallons I got. about 1/4" down from the top.

Started the car let it idle for 10 minutes the temps stayed around 200 on the guage but read anywhere from 150-180 on the gun measuring at the hoses, block, fittings etc. reved up to 2500 and watched the temps, never dropped past 195 pretty much stayed at 198 on the gauge and changed at the top hose and housing from 177 to 180. This was all with the cap off in the garage.

Didn't seem like anything was going to change after 15 minutes so shut it down out the Mr. G thermo cap back on and watched it go to 180 and sit. which would be the water temp inside the top tank. gauge in the car went to 202. (gauge in car is an analog one with the inert gas in the tube to the sensor in the pump housing, I still have the factory gauge working with the factory sensor and it followed the analog gauge pretty closely like it usually does.

At this point, I think everything is successful, in the back of my mind I can't help but wonder if I got all the old coolant out. I did follow the instructions but did not take a plug out of the block, did blow out the heater core and lines, etc, while draining the prep fluid it seemed like a lot of green was coming with it, I have read some say they see it clear, so that is my only concern right now, hoping there is less than the 5% of water in the mix.
 
One thing I have noticed is if you come back from a drive and let it sit for a few minutes the temp rises fast and try to restart at 220-230 not easy with a mini starter, went ahead and bought a refractometer and did not like what I saw, was about 6% water still, but temps were lower than 68° when I did the test per the instructions needs to be 72 or better. Will try again, when warmer, need to call evans they say they sell their own meter, the one I bought off ebay said it was for evans just not sold by them.
 
Ok, another update, after working hard to get the water content down to 3% just about there .4 to go. and after removing the stat per the instructions from the techs / engineers I can just say wow! Started the car and it sat at idle for 10 minutes only rising to 150° then a few revs got it to 160, then idling for 15 minutes got it to 180 at which time with some more revs it dropped back down to 165 lol holy cow this is great waiting to see what it will be like in hot hot summer. No corrosion, little to no pressure in the system, takes the high heat away from the cylinder walls in the block and sends it to the radiator for cooling then cooled back to the block it is a great heat exchanger for sure.

All in all I would say this stuff is working as advertised. real test will be in summer when its 90's + in traffic. looking to make a run to hot august nights in Reno this year or next.
 
Couple of questions for you. When you say your working hard to get the water content down, how are you doing that? I assume you keep draining the system been then how do you separate it? Also, it gets a bit nippy up here in Michigan at night on spring and fall cruises. Does this have any effect on the heat being supplied to the passengers?
 
Yes unless i want to start over from scratch all I can do is drain and refill cycle then check. Only done this the first time and got to just about 3%. My fatal mistake was not draining the block and understanding the total capacity of the system. And yes your passenger will be cold until you get on the road and the motor and all the fluid get warm just takes longer than normal. A stat holds temps so u can defrost. Mine is garaged and we have 70 temps right now.
 
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Does this have any effect on the heat being supplied to the passengers?​ I don't notice any difference in my Mercedes. However, it doesn't have the same specific heat as pure water. Neither does conventional anti-freeze, for that matter.
 
I noticed, after 10 minutes of idling and seeing the temp gauge read 150° I turned on the heat and defrost and it was cold, after revving and getting it up to 180 it started to get warm.
 
Well you don't seperate it so they say just waste the product and buy more like I did, sux if you don't do it right the first time you pay for it. I have 3 gallons of it mixed I plan on boiling it this week end to about 145 see if the water will boil out using my camping stove. Fingers crossed may take a few hours for all of it but would be cool. Also checked tonight and I am right at the 3% mark now so good to go I guess. Need a good long cruise for more winter testing.
 
I can say boiling the water out of the mixed up stuff works. It didn't get the green antifreeze out but was able to get the water out. in the process of getting 3 gallons back.

Also after several cruises now the temps are consistent and are lower than this motor has ever seen. typical cruise nets 165-170° temps have only seen it rise to 180 for a brief time after pulling into the garage and watching it idle more then drops back to 160. Have to say this stuff is pretty good at what it says it is. the heat removal and cooling through the radiator all seem to be a perfect situation the motor runs great nice and cool as well.
 
Yes open no stat, just changed radiators too a slightly smaller one but still 3 rows 3/4" slots. Temps still about the same saw a rise to 180 while getting into it a bit on a 70+ degree day then dropped to 155-160 seems if it does get hot at a stop it soon cools down when there is wind back in the sails.

I still need to put it to the test in a real summer day out here which will be around the 90+ days to see if it will keep it cool. right now no complaints even getting to 180 is nothing thats what it used to ride at with a 180 stat before. I have not reinstalled my electric pusher fan yet waiting to see how summer does.

Was able to re capture about a 2 gallons of the mixed up stuff. ruined an old camping stove but hey at $50 a gallon i don't care! running at about a 1% water content now which is more than acceptable according to Evan's.

I also wanted to note one of the reasons I made this switch was pressure. I never thought it could happen to me but it did and resulted in a blown out freeze plug. My lower hose collapsed during a hard hammer down run one day and resulted in a huge steam cloud out the back with instant 250 degree temps, had to pull over shut down and get a tow home. after replacing the freeze plug and figuring out that the lower hose had collapsed it was obvious my set up was doomed to repeat this if I just left it like it was.

For whatever reason I chose a passenger side water pump housing and matched an aluminum radiator to that, this forced me to have to cut a custom lower hose kind of short and at a 70° angle about. but just enough center section and bend to cause a suction collapse that with a stat that was possible sticky at times just created the perfect storm and a big pressure situation that had to find a relief valve somewhere and boom.

Point is with the Evan's stuff there is little to no pressure in the system, I run a 16 pis cap Mr G's temp cap still not that it matters anymore, I also put a coil spring in the lower hose to just in case not that it is needed any more but with the combination of things I can now hammer it without worry and stay cool doing it.

I have twisted the 16 psi cap off with the gauge on the cap reading 210 and guess what it made a tiny little hiss noise then just came right off with no eruption lol
 
The proper way to install Evans on a working system is to use their prep fluid to remove any traces of water. It can be checked with a refractometer to verify its water content. It can be used in stages to do multiple vehicles, i.e., slightly watered prep fluid can be flushed with new, and so on down the road.
 
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