Going Tubeless & Screwless?

[66Satellite47]

Asking for experiences with using standard non-radial slicks without tubes or screws. My tires are 11.5W x 29.5 on 10" wheels. I know guys that have done OK with smaller tires. How about in the 11.5 or 12" wide range? 500" motor, 3500 converter, 4.10. Input appreciated.

 

[W8avenger]

Glue the rim and go tubeless.
I do.
No issues at all.
Mark your tire to wheel and see if it moves.
I also coat the inside of my tires with 3M weather strip adhesive to seal them up so there's no leaks.

 

[moparsteve636]

You can use Ivory dish soap to coat the inside of the slicks! Do it 3 times let it dry between coatings!

 

[66Satellite47]

You can use Ivory dish soap to coat the inside of the slicks! Do it 3 times let it dry between coatings!

I don't quite get the concept, tire porosity?

 

[Longroof]

I never ran screws tubes. Ran every brand of slicks.. mickeys, Phoenix, goodyear, hoosier, sizes 29 x 11.5 to 14 x 32 with no problems. Mark the tire at the valve stem and don't let it get too far away.. about an eighth of a revolution then swap sides and make it come back... repeat as needed. They usually stop moving after a little while.

 

[dvw]

I've been 1.29/5.79/9.12 w/o tubes or screws. I will say don't bother balancing. Mine tires have turned 180 degrees in 25 passes. I'm going to try gluing them to the rims next time. This being said the car is very consistent. I've run both M/T 10.5Wx31 and M/T 10.5x29 on my 10" rims. Drives fine at 147+
Doug

 

[Mike Gaines]

I would think why not spend $69.52 (x2) at Summit for a pr of MT tubes. If you run more than 13lbs you shouldnt have to worry about screws, if less than 13lbs then they should be screwed.....BUT... I have talked personally with MT Tire Race Tech Line and they said DO NOT RUN LESS THAN 13LBS on any tire less than 30" if you car weighs 3400lbs or more as it will "squash" the tire and it will bow up in the middle and only get contact on the outside 3" or so of each side of the slick.If you have a 500" motor then you plan on using it....you should tube and screw the tires to be on the safe side....my thoughts only....but I did it with my new 28x13.50x11.25 tread width MT DOT non-radial slicks.

 

[Longroof]

I don't quite get the concept, tire porosity?

Yes, it will keep the slicks from losing air pressure when sitting For long periods of time. Some slicks are worse than others...

 

[dvw]

Like I mentioned my tires move on the rim. That would tear the tube. Forgot to list I run between 13.5 -14.0 lbs. My car weighs 3340 with me and fuel.
Doug

 

[66Satellite47]

Yes, it will keep the slicks from losing air pressure when sitting For long periods of time. Some slicks are worse than others...

Ok, got it. Thanks.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

I've been 8.96@152 mph on m/t 31 x 10.5w slicks tubeless and screws . mine don't move.

 

[66Satellite47]

I would think why not spend $69.52 (x2) at Summit for a pr of MT tubes. If you run more than 13lbs you shouldnt have to worry about screws, if less than 13lbs then they should be screwed.....BUT... I have talked personally with MT Tire Race Tech Line and they said DO NOT RUN LESS THAN 13LBS on any tire less than 30" if you car weighs 3400lbs or more as it will "squash" the tire and it will bow up in the middle and only get contact on the outside 3" or so of each side of the slick.If you have a 500" motor then you plan on using it....you should tube and screw the tires to be on the safe side....my thoughts only....but I did it with my new 28x13.50x11.25 tread width MT DOT non-radial slicks.

Mike
I do have tubes & screws, ran things that way for many years "back in the day". Some things are a little different now so I asked. Also ran the 11.5W x 29.5 (actually 30.4) @ 12.5 psi for years @ 3450#, 10.50/128, dead nuts consistent, no bowing up in the middle. Thanks for your input.

 

[383man]

I have been running these 30 x 9 Hoosier radial slicks for about 6 years with no tubes or screws. I actually drive on the street all the time on these also. They hold air great as they never seem to lose air at all. I run them about 16 psi when I race and run them at 28 on the street. Years back I ran M/T slicks with tubes at the track and I had more flats with tubes then I have ever had without tubes. And I carry a plug kit with my 63 so if I get anything in my tire on the street I can just plug it which I had to do once on my old pair. The old pair of the Hoosier 30 x 9 radial slicks lasted me 4 years driving on the street and racing once or twice a year before I bought new ones 2 years ago. Ron

 

[Endangered Species]

Mike Crutchfield from Phoenix told me not to screw our 29.5X10.5's.
He said to mark the rim and the tire make a couple of passes, if it moves then rotate the tire and run them and they shouldn't move... he was right.

 

[66Satellite47]

I have been running these 30 x 9 Hoosier radial slicks for about 6 years with no tubes or screws. I actually drive on the street all the time on these also. They hold air great as they never seem to lose air at all. I run them about 16 psi when I race and run them at 28 on the street. Years back I ran M/T slicks with tubes at the track and I had more flats with tubes then I have ever had without tubes. And I carry a plug kit with my 63 so if I get anything in my tire on the street I can just plug it which I had to do once on my old pair. The old pair of the Hoosier 30 x 9 radial slicks lasted me 4 years driving on the street and racing once or twice a year before I bought new ones 2 years ago. Ron

I know folks that have had great success for years with the radials, not many with bias ply, especially larger than 10.0". Thanks for the input.

- - - Updated - - -

Mike Crutchfield from Phoenix told me not to screw our 29.5X10.5's.
He said to mark the rim and the tire make a couple of passes, if it moves then rotate the tire and run them and they shouldn't move... he was right.

That's good to hear, I got the same input from Coker.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Radial slicks must be run tubeless and no need to run rim screws. They hold I much better and never seem to lose air.
Bias slicks such as M/T which are notorious for losing air through the sidewalls.

 

[66Satellite47]

Radial slicks must be run tubeless and no need to run rim screws. They hold I much better and never seem to lose air.
Bias slicks such as M/T which are notorious for losing air through the sidewalls.

Thanks, I'm using Phoenix tires. Hadn't thought about sidewall leakage. I'll try the dish soap coating trick. These will be the "strip only" tires, so the air tank will be handy.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Thanks, I'm using Phoenix tires. Hadn't thought about sidewall leakage. I'll try the dish soap coating trick. These will be the "strip only" tires, so the air tank will be handy.

66 get yourself a can of 3M exstrong weather strip adhesive and spray liberally all around the tire inside of course and give it 2 coats. 1 can should do it.
I did the dishwash soap deal and it didn't work as well as the adhesive.
I'm running tubeless now and so far no leaks. It's been 3 weeks since I did it and not 1 lb of air lost.

 

[66Satellite47]

66 get yourself a can of 3M exstrong weather strip adhesive and spray liberally all around the tire inside of course and give it 2 coats. 1 can should do it.
I did the dishwash soap deal and it didn't work as well as the adhesive.
I'm running tubeless now and so far no leaks. It's been 3 weeks since I did it and not 1 lb of air lost.

Thanks, that does sound very good too.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

I never had luck with the dawn liquid dish soap and once you're mounted up, it's a pain to start over.
Do it right once.