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Good HP starter to start High compression 440

minnesota guy

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What is good replacement mini HP starter that will kick over a Hi compression 440 once it gets warm? I have swapped to my 2nd Chrysler mini starter and a 1000amp battery , but still same results when motor warm. Hard to start. I have total timing in at 35 degrees on a Fire Core distributor. I have played with initial timing and adjusted the slot in distributor but if I give too much in the slot, it doesn't want to idle good, but setting the advance slot in the center is kicking too much when engine is warm. I have gone everywhere in between... I also run the Rev-n-nator orange box....I know MSD has a set up where there is near zero dwell at starting but I want to keep a stock look. Car goes to drag strip only. 1971 Cuda.

Do the 250.00 type starters work better for a hi compression engine? I am at 240lbs cranking compression.
 
What is good replacement mini HP starter that will kick over a Hi compression 440 once it gets warm? I have swapped to my 2nd Chrysler mini starter and a 1000amp battery , but still same results when motor warm. Hard to start. I have total timing in at 35 degrees on a Fire Core distributor. I have played with initial timing and adjusted the slot in distributor but if I give too much in the slot, it doesn't want to idle good, but setting the advance slot in the center is kicking too much when engine is warm. I have gone everywhere in between... I also run the Rev-n-nator orange box....I know MSD has a set up where there is near zero dwell at starting but I want to keep a stock look. Car goes to drag strip only. 1971 Cuda.

Do the 250.00 type starters work better for a hi compression engine? I am at 240lbs cranking compression.
I use a starter from a Dakota 4x4 with a 5.9v8. It clears my headers and no problem starting. A local racer recommended it, same he uses on his 512 stroker.
 
I use the same starter (AutoZone) as prplcar. You might try some header wrap & heat wrap for the starter too. High heat = high electrical resistance = slow starter turning
 
Another vote for the Dakota starter.
Mine is actually a rebuilt one and the #^$!$$ Hedmans sit right on the dang thing, but it kicks it right over every time.
 
I kept having problems like that with a 440 Source mini. Finally I said the Hell with it and bought a Powermaster from Summit. Yes it was in the $200 range but claims not heat soak. Haven't had any problems since. I did put new cables on it and an extra ground strap for good measure. Problem solved.
 
I am using a brand new rebuilt Dakota starter..Same problem as before (same starter as Chrysler mini from 1999 I was using-no different in spin quality) I also had installed new battery cables. Not a heat soak issue as motor was just off its warm up on a 50 degree day the other day....I am thinking the Power master has more power and may be the way to go.
 
Another old trick is having the ignition power on a switch so you can get it spinnin before you light it,,,,,,,,

This. Wire a toggle switch that you can easily reach when belted into the hot feed to the ignition. Most guys I know use a separate push button on the opposite hand for turning the engine or two toggle types next to each other in the switch panel. Get it spinning with the "turning" button/switch and hit the ignition. It will fire right up.
 
This. Wire a toggle switch that you can easily reach when belted into the hot feed to the ignition. Most guys I know use a separate push button on the opposite hand for turning the engine or two toggle types next to each other in the switch panel. Get it spinning with the "turning" button/switch and hit the ignition. It will fire right up.
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So, get it spinning with the left hand, hit the key to "on" and away it goes
 
I would use two switches: (1) a lever-type momentary "on" for the starter, and (1) standard two-position toggle for the ignition. Ignore the key. If you want to use the key put the toggle switch on the left, and just the key to turn the engine over. I would install a jumper in the harness to the column to isolate the toggle as the only switch in the ignition power circuit in this instance.
 
You mentioned it's a race car only. Like to see some pictures. You can hide an MSD rather easily. Inside, under the dash is a good place but as several have mentioned, the starter button/toggle switch works very well. Get it spinning first.

Jegs panel.jpg
 
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On an E body it's easy to install a decent appearing switch panel where the radio goes. I made a sheet metal deal that I painted semi flat black. It used the rear radio mount and slid into the radio hole. I used six smaller toggle switches which were fine as I didn't have or need gloves. What's pictured works with or without gloves but unless it was inside the console you couldn't hide it.
 
The stock Dakota starter cranks my 15-1 572 with 34 degrees fixed timing with ignition activated . Going on the 4th year.

Doug
 
Yeah - I've had no trouble with the MP minis turning over anything although some of the offshore copies are of lesser quality. The OEM ones are the MP units. A lot of starting has to do with how the main starting system is cabled too... So there might be more to it than just a "starter" or "timing" problem. Might be of some help if the OP can post the rest of the starting system details, battery placement, cable sizing, grounding, etc.
 
I have 2 ga running from the trunk to the starter relay on the fender. Same issue.
 
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Like the separate switch idea having the same problem, any one else break a nose off yet?
 
Replacing starters and the symptom continues sounds like the starter is not the issue. There are several posts here with guys using different starters and most seem to work well. I'm no expert but it it sounds like too much initial timing. Every car is different so finding your best combination takes research, time and mostly money. My car has 14.5 to 1 compression with an aftermarket mini starter and I had similar issues compounded by using an Indy 440-25 intake even with 2 batteries. Out of frustration, I went with a 16 volt system. Still using the spin and fire technique and all my starting issues went away (knock on wood).
 
Mine uses the 440-25 intake as well. that precludes cranking w/o ignition on unless you want the intake to go kaboom. Mine uses a 0/1 cable
Doug
 
I just received a 440 Source starter. Will give that a go. Looks like a quality piece
 
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