Greedy Incompetent Transmission Shop-Possible Spun Crank Bearing

[OutLawBiker]

1973 Plymouth Road Runner
LA 360 30 over
340 X Heads 1968
Edelbrock Air Max Intake Manifold
Holley 750 Dual Feed Single Pump Vacuum Secondaries
Custom Headers

Uses* Street / Drag 1/4 Mile

After I picked up my car from the transmission shop-
Developed what sounded like I spun a crank bearing-
Extremely loud knock on start up and increased with the RPM as she warmed up it quieted down a bit-
Sounded like the rear cylinder (8) on the right bank-
Small amount of fine metallic particles in oil-No pieces or chunks of any destruction found-
Compression 140-145 in all cylinders-
Torque Converter Bolts Loose-

This all started when I took her to a locale transmission shop and asked the owner to build me a 727 Stage 2 transmission, wanting to keep my money local and in my community.
That's not what happen-
Instead, he ordered a Stock 727 rebuilt on line and changed 2 components. I had to replace the converter when he broke two good ones I supplied. Hughes 3000 Stall and a fairly new 1800 stall. I bought a new 2400 Stall from Summit Racing along with a new B & M ratchet floor shifter he said I needed to replace the older one I drove in with.
I had to drive her carefully for the first 500 miles. At around 325 miles I got on it, and she shifts from 1st to 2nd fine however, 2nd to 3rd was a disaster. She fell on her face as if the line pressure was dialed far to low. I repeated this a few more times under a varied number of conditions with the exact results.
Could this cause an engine malfunction like a spun bearing or ?
All in all I paid $4000.00 for a stock rebuilt transmission-Not to mention the 3 Torque Converters and Shifter.
I got screwed big time-to say the least! And he was a d==k about it on top of it all. I am at an impasse, and I am asking for the help and direction of my fellow members-please!
Does anyone of the gurus here have a similar result or can give advice on how to proceed? I have pulled the engine and oil pan and the problem is not forthcoming.
I am stuck at this junction.

 

[hemi446]

I'm not trying to be a smart *** but did you check the torque on the flexplate bolts to crank. My son had a similar problem after he put in his engine himself because he couldn't wait a week for me. he didn't torque them he used an impact gun and they came loose after a couple of months. It sounds like a rod was coming out of the block off an idle. We pulled the engine and pulled the oil pan and check ever bearing and couldn't find anything wrong. I asked him several times did you torque everything by hand he said YES. Not

 

[69a100]

For starters, OUT the name of the shop so no one else gets plooked by them! I'm not a tranny guy so I can't help. Good Luck

 

[super-bee_ski]

1973 Plymouth Road Runner
LA 360 30 over
340 X Heads 1968
Edelbrock Air Max Intake Manifold
Holley 750 Dual Feed Single Pump Vacuum Secondaries
Custom Headers

Uses* Street / Drag 1/4 Mile

After I picked up my car from the transmission shop-
Developed what sounded like I spun a crank bearing-
Extremely loud knock on start up and increased with the RPM as she warmed up it quieted down a bit-
Sounded like the rear cylinder (8) on the right bank-
Small amount of fine metallic particles in oil-No pieces or chunks of any destruction found-
Compression 140-145 in all cylinders-
Torque Converter Bolts Loose-

This all started when I took her to a locale transmission shop and asked the owner to build me a 727 Stage 2 transmission, wanting to keep my money local and in my community.
That's not what happen-
Instead, he ordered a Stock 727 rebuilt on line and changed 2 components. I had to replace the converter when he broke two good ones I supplied. Hughes 3000 Stall and a fairly new 1800 stall. I bought a new 2400 Stall from Summit Racing along with a new B & M ratchet floor shifter he said I needed to replace the older one I drove in with.
I had to drive her carefully for the first 500 miles. At around 325 miles I got on it, and she shifts from 1st to 2nd fine however, 2nd to 3rd was a disaster. She fell on her face as if the line pressure was dialed far to low. I repeated this a few more times under a varied number of conditions with the exact results.
Could this cause an engine malfunction like a spun bearing or ?
All in all I paid $4000.00 for a stock rebuilt transmission-Not to mention the 3 Torque Converters and Shifter.
I got screwed big time-to say the least! And he was a d==k about it on top of it all. I am at an impasse, and I am asking for the help and direction of my fellow members-please!
Does anyone of the gurus here have a similar result or can give advice on how to proceed? I have pulled the engine and oil pan and the problem is not forthcoming.
I am stuck at this junction.

So sorry
It happens
Does not mean it is Okay...
but, we have all been "Bit" by these rooks...
PS: My old Air Force Bud is from medford, Tim Fisher, about 59 years old now

 

[super-bee_ski]

OUT THE RAT BASTARDS!

 

[R413]

A big problem area on a 727 can be the 2-3 shift. And or when the guy doesn’t know what he is doing. And since he didn’t build it and don’t know what’s inside or the set up he cannot install any shift kit or valve body and have it work correctly. The whole thing needs to be set up, ever heard of “combination?”

Yes check everything else like the flexplate and balancer and pullies for looseness. If all good then take bearing caps off to see if you have a bearing problem in the engine.


Not fun and sorry it happened.

 

[Jeremiah]

1973 Plymouth Road Runner
LA 360 30 over
340 X Heads 1968
Edelbrock Air Max Intake Manifold
Holley 750 Dual Feed Single Pump Vacuum Secondaries
Custom Headers

Uses* Street / Drag 1/4 Mile

After I picked up my car from the transmission shop-
Developed what sounded like I spun a crank bearing-
Extremely loud knock on start up and increased with the RPM as she warmed up it quieted down a bit-
Sounded like the rear cylinder (8) on the right bank-
Small amount of fine metallic particles in oil-No pieces or chunks of any destruction found-
Compression 140-145 in all cylinders-
Torque Converter Bolts Loose-

This all started when I took her to a locale transmission shop and asked the owner to build me a 727 Stage 2 transmission, wanting to keep my money local and in my community.
That's not what happen-
Instead, he ordered a Stock 727 rebuilt on line and changed 2 components. I had to replace the converter when he broke two good ones I supplied. Hughes 3000 Stall and a fairly new 1800 stall. I bought a new 2400 Stall from Summit Racing along with a new B & M ratchet floor shifter he said I needed to replace the older one I drove in with.
I had to drive her carefully for the first 500 miles. At around 325 miles I got on it, and she shifts from 1st to 2nd fine however, 2nd to 3rd was a disaster. She fell on her face as if the line pressure was dialed far to low. I repeated this a few more times under a varied number of conditions with the exact results.
Could this cause an engine malfunction like a spun bearing or ?
All in all I paid $4000.00 for a stock rebuilt transmission-Not to mention the 3 Torque Converters and Shifter.
I got screwed big time-to say the least! And he was a d==k about it on top of it all. I am at an impasse, and I am asking for the help and direction of my fellow members-please!
Does anyone of the gurus here have a similar result or can give advice on how to proceed? I have pulled the engine and oil pan and the problem is not forthcoming.
I am stuck at this junction.

Did you pull any bearing caps to see what the mains look like?

 

[Don Frelier]

How do you ruin a torque converter?
That should have ended the deal right there.

 

[65wgn440]

Maybe got a little crazy on his test drive. Do you have a rev limiter ?

 

[MiradaMegaCab]

Maybe watch the harmonic balancer to see if the thrust bearing took a beating... Rev the engine to see if the balancer is moving in and out.

 

[oldbee]

A tranny job really has nothing to do with bearings in the engine, probably just a coincidence. Trans guys nowadays are used to 4-9speed trans, not an excuse; just the way it is. To my way of thinking, you need to REALLY ask questions today to find the shop/guy you want to use.

 

[bigbluedodge]

Did the knock not go away when you tightened the torque converter bolts? Or is this a new noise? I'm not following exactly what's happening. And I also would like to know how the torque converters got ruined. What were the symptoms when you began this whole operation?

bryand

 

[OutLawBiker]

For starters, OUT the name of the shop so no one else gets plooked by them! I'm not a tranny guy so I can't help. Good Luck

Pete's Transmissions in Phoenix, Oregon

 

[OutLawBiker]

Did the knock not go away when you tightened the torque converter bolts? Or is this a new noise? I'm not following exactly what's happening. And I also would like to know how the torque converters got ruined. What were the symptoms when you began this whole operation?

bryand

Let me see if I can explain this better. I had a Stage 2 transmission when I drove my car to the tranny shop. The issue with that tranny it had no reverse and only 2/3rds in 1st gear because the band was adjusted all the way out and therefore needed to be replaced. I thought I would keep that and rebuild it later in the meantime I would have a fresh new Stage 2 built.
So for reference purposes we will identify Tranny one as what I had in my car when I took it to the shop to have a new tranny built-
Tranny 2.
Tranny one would throw you in the trunk if you weren't strapped in, even with her faults. So I am aware of her potential and tranny 2 is not even in the same league my friend.
I drove in with the almost new 1800 stall and brought him the 3000 stall I had at home. The problem was the 3000 stall was internally balanced. The tranny shop took the weight off the 1800 stall and weld it to the 3000 stall therefore ruining them both.

 

[tonysrt]

The other problem you mention is metal particles in the oil. That could mean bearing problems. Maybe change oil and filter and see what happens. You could have the oil analyzed, but would take a little time, and will tell whats breaking down.

 

[OutLawBiker]

So sorry
It happens
Does not mean it is Okay...
but, we have all been "Bit" by these rooks...
PS: My old Air Force Bud is from medford, Tim Fisher, about 59 years old now

Hi,
Thank you, I appreciate the sentiment. I don't believe I know your Air Force buddy Tim. Should I run into him I'll tell him hello for you.
...and your right, this is far from OK.

 

[yella71]

Sorry but this story is not right. What exactly is a "stage 2 trans"? Also changing weights on a converter does not ruin it. as was said earlier not following. And what does 2/3 in first mean? 2/3s throttle? the trans was slipping? what?

 

[OutLawBiker]

The other problem you mention is metal particles in the oil. That could mean bearing problems. Maybe change oil and filter and see what happens. You could have the oil analyzed, but would take a little time, and will tell whats breaking down.

Yeah, I'm a bit unsure still with the oil issue. Analyzing the oil is brilliant Unfortunately don't have the luxury of time on my side, got a race coming up I can't afford to lose or worst, forfeit as a NO SHOW.
If only time and money wasn't factors - ok, sorry, dreaming again.
I will continue to follow the directions from every consideration. I am grateful for your help!!

 

[OutLawBiker]

Sorry but this story is not right. What exactly is a "stage 2 trans"? Also changing weights on a converter does not ruin it. as was said earlier not following. And what does 2/3 in first mean? 2/3s throttle? the trans was slipping? what?

2/3s referring to the maximum RPM in 1st gear.
727 Street / Strip Stage 2 transmission is based on HP rating.
Typically, comes complete with these components;
alto red racing clutches, kolene steels in stock front drum thats modified, TCI flex red racing kick down band, alto red clutches, kolene steels in rear clutch with modified apply piston, spring & metal spacer ring, 4.2 band lever, H.D. Band Strut, Billet rear servo, A&A Full Manual Valve body with Low Band Apply, Bolt in Sprag, lengthened sun gear, rear clutch, and rear drum, 4-pinion front planet & 3-pinion rear planet, Deep Pan, Kevlar rear band, acc., blocked spacer added,
90 # front servo, oil mods to case and components, babbit front pump bushing, new pump gears, gasket, and seals. With some minor variations.
This trans is good for 600 HP
Stage 2 Transmissions
I hope I've made this clear for you and less mystifying.

 

[oldbee]

Only a quick perusal, get another tranny person. Something ain't right.