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Hard start

Dennis & 69L probably hit it!! My '68 fires off in Ohio with 1/2 pump when cold faster than modern F.I. cars. Hot? no, hit the key with no throttle and if within 5secs of cranking I give it a little pump. Gas is crappy nowadays.
 
Per the fuel problem- I've noticed my 68 Bee won't start right away after sitting for a couple weeks. Figure the fuel is evaporating from fuel bowls with that open vent by the acc.pump linkage!!!
 
Per the fuel problem- I've noticed my 68 Bee won't start right away after sitting for a couple weeks. Figure the fuel is evaporating from fuel bowls with that open vent by the acc.pump linkage!!!
yes I smell the fuel vapor when I check on the car in the garage a few hours after a hot ride. Not sure what to do about heat soak...the whole engine bay sits in its own heat with headers and radiator. Usually takes a few cranks to fill the bowls again days later.
 
I have the same issue with my 383 and Eddy 600. Took the air cleaner off and watched the fuel percolate into the carb after a long ride as it set for 30 minutes or longer. Bought a 1" phenolic spacer which seemed to help some. What I'm doing now with a header and a Demon 750 carb installation is re-route the fuel line to the passenger fender well then to the carb. Also insulating the line so that might help, might not.
 
Since your running a edelbrock carb have you blocked the heat cross over , many aftermarket intakes still cast them in also the oem intakes have them. That will help hot start issues with eddy carbs.
 
I have the same issue with my 383 and Eddy 600. Took the air cleaner off and watched the fuel percolate into the carb after a long ride as it set for 30 minutes or longer. Bought a 1" phenolic spacer which seemed to help some. What I'm doing now with a header and a Demon 750 carb installation is re-route the fuel line to the passenger fender well then to the carb. Also insulating the line so that might help, might not.
You are fortunate to get a one inch spacer in there. Even with the power-bulge hood, only a 1/2 would fit. Did move and wrap the fuel lines with that DEI product. Conditions have improved, but not perfect under extreme conditions. Sit for an hour on I-80 Reno, or 100 plus ambient can still make the 440 less than happy. Managable though.
 
I agree that a spacer would help the most. Fuel line insulation or a return line is not going to stop the fuel from boiling out of the carb. The best thing you can do in my opinion is mix a few gallons of 110 in every tank. It won't boil out when the car is hot and does not evaporate and leave you cranking and cranking after a few days of hibernation. I can immediately detect when my Coronet needs a drink of 110 by the above mentioned characteristics.
 
Here's what my 67 GTX does after sitting a week. Grind it once....no start. Grind it twice.....no start. Third grind starts up. It's a bit irritating but I've learned to accept it. I did put on fuel line insulation with new fuel filter. No real help. I am going to consider electric fuel pump over the winter. I have a Holley Red on the shelf. Also, might put on the spacer too.
 
Here's what my 67 GTX does after sitting a week. Grind it once....no start. Grind it twice.....no start. Third grind starts up. It's a bit irritating but I've learned to accept it. I did put on fuel line insulation with new fuel filter. No real help. I am going to consider electric fuel pump over the winter. I have a Holley Red on the shelf. Also, might put on the spacer too.
Electric pump did not help. I thought that 1-2 cranks without starting was good as it primes the oiling system somewhat. After setting for a few days, I have been spinning it twice with no throttle bump to prime. Then once to the floor and it kicks right off. Wife thinks it starts hard. Don't care.
 
Tried on Sunday after a week in garage.1/2 pump fired right off and quit. 3-5secs of cranking and fired right off. 80's in garage all week.Oughta be time for refineries to start pumping "winter blend" in another month or so!!!!
 
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