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Has anyone used a simplified horn circuit for greater reliability?

munger77

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There are a lot of horn problems posted throughout the internet with these mopars. Would this simple circuit work, and if so, would I run 10 or 12 gauge wire to be safe and eliminate the relay altogether?

This is a 1 minute video on youtube that includes a simple circuit diagram with no relay; wanting to know if anyone has done this.
 
"With these Mopars...." eh?
If you've done any work on other makes/models of the same era, you'd know that they all
pretty much did horn activation circuits similarly in those days - and it isn't a very complicated
circuit, really.
 
The use of a relay depends on the switch being used. If the switch can handle the amps without burning out the contacts then fine, get rid of the relay. But eliminating the relay means you now need to run the heavier gauge wire all the way to and from the switch.
 
Just fix whatever is not right with the factory system, then it will again be reliable for another 50 years.

so now we are adding headlamp relays and removing horn relays, and happy about both?
 
Just fix whatever is not right with the factory system, then it will again be reliable for another 50 years.

so now we are adding headlamp relays and removing horn relays, and happy about both?
Apparently we also "need"
HEI ignitions
Manifold vacuum advance
One wire alternators
Quadrajets
No amp gauges

And other shitty bypass hacks..
 
Apparently we also "need"
HEI ignitions
Manifold vacuum advance
One wire alternators
Quadrajets
No amp gauges

And other shitty bypass hacks..
And there's a "Karen". Bored n gotta complain about what someone else is doing.
 
The problem is this “bullshit“ is read by many folks other than posters, and they think it is manditory.

I just sold some rear axle parts to a young gun. He was all worried that he needs green bearings for his car because he reads it all over the forums. He has an all stock axle, so he is fine with the stock tapered roller axle bearings. And they were working just fine, but all the hype had him worried about nothing.

All because he read about the “upgrade” LOL
 
And there's a "Karen". Bored n gotta complain about what someone else is doing.
I'm a salt of the earth Chrysler guy.
Someone should start a " Gbodies N Bbodies" site for the trans- manufacturer crowd?
Not that there's anything wrong with that.
 
Apparently we also "need"
HEI ignitions
Manifold vacuum advance
One wire alternators
Quadrajets
No amp gauges

And other shitty bypass hacks..
Says the guys who is still wearing platform shoes, bellbottoms and a mullet !!
 
And I wouldn't take an axle with green bearings for a street car !!
 
Last edited:
Says the guys who is still wearing platform shoes, bellbottoms and a mullet !!
I'll take that as a badge of honor!!

Especially since I was probably 4 when Saturday Night Fever came out..
 
As a helicopter, turbine engine, helicopter transmission mechanic for 23 yrs along w multiple car, motorcycle, boat and diesel truck builds over the yrs, I'll address some of the queries of @RemCharger.
HEI: Some people would like a hotter spark for a modified engine. HEI is a good way to do it and keep it hidden allowing the engine to appear stock. Some people like a MSD box bolted in the engine compartment.

Manifold vacuum: can be very helpful in an aggressively cam'd engine w an automatic transmission. It does have it's place, however on a stock engine, not necessary.

Quadrajets: Personal preference on type of intake improvement. I doubt very seriously that anyone actually thinks the stock engine in "any" make/model of car was the best performing.

No amp gauge: Necessary... no. Does it have a place, yes for some. I run fuel injection and require a better alternator. I run a 120 amp, I do not want a 120 amp alternator running "through" my dash wiring. I converted to a volt meter that uses the amp guage to show my charging state. And run my alternator directly to my battery.

Headlight relay: Older cars, pre 70's have horrible headlights. Not because the headlights are bad but because the voltage goes through the Headlight switch and then to the headlights. They do not get full 12 volts, much less 14. A relay, activated by the switch allows stock headlights to get over 12V and makes them much brighter "Safer".

I inherited my Great Grandmother's car, I modified it as that's what I like. I honestly don't understand some people liking pro sports, but that's their thing.

For our cars, there are better things that can be added over the yrs to make them more enjoyable to drive. Overdrive, disc brakes, fuel injection, a/c, even tires etc....

I'd venture to bet that the majority on this site modified their car in one way or another.
 
You would be better off using a relay system - the twin horns can suck a fair bit of power.
 
That video is stoopid to say the least.

The horn current requirements will eventually burnout the switch contacts, no matter where in the circuit the switch is placed.

I know this, it happened to me as a 17 year old.

The whole point of the relay, is to divert the main current flow away from the switch, which usually has contacts not rated for full load current of the device it is switching. The relay contacts however have a much higher rating, and are designed specifically for that task.
 
The factory horn circuit, as originally designed, could not be any simpler, nothing mysterious. Relays serve their purpose just fine, there are several more circuits in these old cars that could have benefited from the use of relays originally.
 
Unless you have wired one from scratch you will never know. The what the h*** where they thinking can up a few times. But it works.
 
Do not know about later Mopar horn switches, but the ones from the 60s & 70s were well made & reliable.
Doubt they would benefit much from a relay, but there are two reasons a relay might be a benefit.
One is you can wire the 'hot' wire for the horn directly [ through a fuse ] to the batt terminal & keep wires short. This minimises voltage drop & the horn will be as loud as it can be.
Two, contact resistance. A 30 amp Bosch relay has a coil resistance of about 72 ohms. Not much current needed to energise it. So horn sw contacts in poor condition would most likely energise the relay [ & sound the horn ], but might not energise the horn which requires amps, not milliamps to operate.
 
Lot of amperage in the wires of your system. Reason for relay is to not carry high amperage long distances through multiple compartments.
Buy a good fire extinguisher.
 
Just to add to the above. I have a Grant steering wheel & horn button on my car, which is a GM car. The horn sw is a real hit & miss deal. For me, having a horn is a safety issue, could prevent an accident. What I use is a SSR [ solid state relay ]. These take only a very small current to energise, less than a conventional 30 amp relay. The SSR has internal voltage drop. So I have the SSR energising a Bosch relay; it makes for reliable operation.
 
Do not know about later Mopar horn switches, but the ones from the 60s & 70s were well made & reliable. Doubt they would benefit much from a relay,...
Not sure I’m following, Mopars from the ’60 &70’s all run horn relays originally, factory horn switches are not designed to handle much of any current.
 
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