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Head and Header problem

oldhemiguy

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First off I did not build this engine it came with the car. 71 challenger What I have is studs holding the heads on Edelbrock RPM I need to put change the headers to TTI they told me they will not fit with headstuds do you think I can take them out one at a time and replace with ARP bolts retorque and keep from taking the head off and not have a leak. Thank you guys for the help I really appreciate it.
 
Let me get this right, are you trying to change the header studs to bolts by doing it one at a time? Feasible maybe. You are also saying you are changing to TTI headers. Maybe I have missed something, but I see no way to change headers without taking the old ones off. The studs can be removed either while taking the old headers off or afterwards if you have clearance, changing headers too??????? Please clarify this for me.
 
No. You don't need to take the head off. Lower the fluid level, manage the spillage.
 
Drain the radiator and sop up any spillage when pulling the studs(?)
 
Yes, you can replace one HEAD STUD at a time. No need to drain coolant. Although not studs, I've pulled one bolt at a time to put washers on the ARP bolts that were installed without them. Not a problem. Retorque each one as you remove/replace it. Make sure to install the washers with the chamfer up on the ARP bolts.
 
Aluminum heads do not have the header bolt holes going into the water jacket. No need to drain any fluid.....unless your pulling the heads.
 
Aluminum heads do not have the header bolt holes going into the water jacket. No need to drain any fluid.....unless your pulling the heads.
I wondered about that, I have always used Chrysler iron heads. Since I am big into 67's I usually put 915's on them. I have also done a couple of 70's and went back with the 906's.
 
The iron heads (factory) have the water jackets, I use studs on those as well.
 
The iron heads (factory) have the water jackets, I use studs on those as well.
Me too, factory stuff. The last time I used bolts on a BB Chrysler was 1969 when I put Hedman headers on my 67 Satellite.
 
Aluminum heads do not have the header bolt holes going into the water jacket. No need to drain any fluid.....unless your pulling the heads.

Ahhhh, Aluminum heads. I think you're right. It looks like that is what he was a attempting to say.
 
TTI headers interfere with the lower row of HEAD STUDS. Op is not talking about the header studs (or bolts). I would agree with coloradodave. I would sure at least give one-at-a-time replacement a shot.
 
Well, if they interfere with studs, how come I was able to use them with ARP 12 point nuts/studs? I did have to use a 6 point nut on the second stud on each side. Other than that, they were perfect.
 
I am sorry I did not explain clearly I am removing the old headers and installing TTI headers the bottom row of the studs that hold the head on need to be removed and I need to replace them with ARP bolts per TTI right now they are very close to the flanges on the old headers
 
Oh, gotcha. In that case, I would remove the header, rockers and drain coolant. Then remove the head bolts in the reverse order of installation as not the warp the head. Then replace the bolts and tighten in factory sequence and torque specifications.
 
You do not think I can just take one out at a time torque and go to the next one after I remove the headers (can you believe I had the K member out, bars and replaced the steering box every thing new on front end and found out you can't change some spark plugs with the headers I have because of the angle plugs)
 
In my other world of engines (Cummins) lots of guys switch out the factory head bolts with ARP studs one at a time.

You’ve got nothing to lose by trying it one at a time. But an old saying goes....you never have enough time to do the job right the first time, but you have enough to do it again.

Toss a coin.
 
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