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Hello from Massachusetts going to need help! Lol

koko74charger

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Location
Wilbraham Massachusetts
Hey everyone! It’s a pleasure to be a part of the forum. I’m from Massachusetts born and raised. Ironically I’ve been a mustang guy my whole life I’ve owned 5. All of them being a newer models… I’ve never worked with a carburetor! I’ve always wanted something older.. I got into my possession a 1974 Dodge Charger from one of my best friends for a very fair price I fell in love with I’m looking to restore. Upon owning the car I realized I lack pretty much the knowledge on most things, that’s where I’ve spent DAYS worth of time on this website doing research in an attempt to prepare myself for the task at hand. It finally occurred to me I should make an account myself! As I finally did, so I can finally chat with, communicate, and do business with everyone! I’m going to need alot of help with this project and journey I’m not afraid to admit it. So anything will count, I appreciate everything guys. Thanks for having me. Car currently has the stock rear end (no idea what that is lol), I think a 727 auto trans (which I want to sell and get an a 833 manual 4 speed for very badly), and a 400 ci big block that’s stock (also unsure the condition, tore it down but has to go to the machine shop). In the end I believe what I want is a 400/451 stroker, with an a833 4 speed, and 8 3/4 rear end. Can’t wait to chat with all of you. Please reach out. Car also needs body work in the quarters and rockers too :( I do have two brand new quarter skins for it though. Just need a path to follow and some good advice from some good knowledgeable people.

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Welcome aboard from Maine! You do have a project! It will be fun to work on and very nice when completed!

As far as the stroker goes, I’ve got a 400/512 in the 69. My thought was if I’m going to spend the cash to stroke the 400 and it was the same cost for all of the different kits or at least very close, why leave Hores power on the table? The 400 is a great block. Mine is great on the street. I kept the Compression ratio down to just under 10 and it’s great.

Also, these are great to have right off the bat! Not sure correct one for your car but I’m sure the right one is there.

1974 Dodge Charger Rallye Dash Wiring Diagram



Good luck! Have fun!
 
Greetings from northern Michigan.

Bad news is long and arduous road ahead of you. Good news is you'll know every inch of that car inside and out and become quite proficient in auto repair/resto.
 
Welcome from Georgia, big adventure with this one being your first assault. Your sheet metal skills will be challenged as getting those issues resolved first is the normal approach towards getting the body back into shape. At the same time be getting engine/drive line, and interior up to your likings. Once the body is painted and you have most all parts refurbished, the assembly goes pretty quick......enjoy, its a labor of love for most all here.....
 
Welcome from Missouri!!
 
Welcome from western NY! Although your perseverance with the project will be challenged at times, see it through to the end and keep us in the loop! Guys on here eat, live and sleep this stuff! Now go get it!
 
Welcome from RI. I have a 833 available if interested. Shifted fine when pulled; but have a new Hurst shifter to replace the Inland Shifter( these had tendency to get sloppy).
 
I'll share with you if you remove the term "reach out" from your post!

Just kidding (although I abhor that term).

You may want to check that cowl, judging by the rust in the lower A pillars and rockers.
You've already got a difficult or expensive job to fix those.
If the cowl is rusted out (a common issue on 71-74 cars), then it's even more so.

Remove the plastic vent screens over the large holes under the wipers.
Put your hand and arm in as far as it will go.
Feel around the volcano-like protruding vent "stacks".
pay particular attention to the bottoms where they meet the surface below them.

There were two different quarter patches made.
The one made by Goodmark/Sherman is good (not great).
The "other one" is AWFUL.
If you post a pic, we can tell you which one they are.
 
Welcome aboard from Maine! You do have a project! It will be fun to work on and very nice when completed!

As far as the stroker goes, I’ve got a 400/512 in the 69. My thought was if I’m going to spend the cash to stroke the 400 and it was the same cost for all of the different kits or at least very close, why leave Hores power on the table? The 400 is a great block. Mine is great on the street. I kept the Compression ratio down to just under 10 and it’s great.

Also, these are great to have right off the bat! Not sure correct one for your car but I’m sure the right one is there.

1974 Dodge Charger Rallye Dash Wiring Diagram



Good luck! Have fun!
I’m only doing the 451 to save money because I found a forged 440 crank for cheap. That’s why I’m going that route
 
Welcome from RI. I have a 833 available if interested. Shifted fine when pulled; but have a new Hurst shifter to replace the Inland Shifter( these had tendency to get sloppy).
I am interested, what else am I going to need to make it work? Obviously a pedal assembly.. do you have everything I’d need for a “full conversation”? Maybe we could figure something out
 
I'll share with you if you remove the term "reach out" from your post!

Just kidding (although I abhor that term).

You may want to check that cowl, judging by the rust in the lower A pillars and rockers.
You've already got a difficult or expensive job to fix those.
If the cowl is rusted out (a common issue on 71-74 cars), then it's even more so.

Remove the plastic vent screens over the large holes under the wipers.
Put your hand and arm in as far as it will go.
Feel around the volcano-like protruding vent "stacks".
pay particular attention to the bottoms where they meet the surface below them.

There were two different quarter patches made.
The one made by Goodmark/Sherman is good (not great).
The "other one" is AWFUL.
If you post a pic, we can tell you which one they are.
I'll share with you if you remove the term "reach out" from your post!

Just kidding (although I abhor that term).

You may want to check that cowl, judging by the rust in the lower A pillars and rockers.
You've already got a difficult or expensive job to fix those.
If the cowl is rusted out (a common issue on 71-74 cars), then it's even more so.

Remove the plastic vent screens over the large holes under the wipers.
Put your hand and arm in as far as it will go.
Feel around the volcano-like protruding vent "stacks".
pay particular attention to the bottoms where they meet the surface below them.

There were two different quarter patches made.
The one made by Goodmark/Sherman is good (not great).
The "other one" is AWFUL.
If you post a pic, we can tell you which one they are.
The cowl, seems to me not rotted believe it or not, I’ll go and get some pics. I have por 15’d the entire floor pan inside and out, firewall, and inner roof as well.
 
Welcome from SE Texas!! Born and partially raise in Massachusetts too......but been here since 63 and only went back to visit once in 69.
 
Welcome! Enjoy the build! My favorite part of owning these cars. I look forward to seeing the progress!
 
Welcome aboard from Maine! You do have a project! It will be fun to work on and very nice when completed!

As far as the stroker goes, I’ve got a 400/512 in the 69. My thought was if I’m going to spend the cash to stroke the 400 and it was the same cost for all of the different kits or at least very close, why leave Hores power on the table? The 400 is a great block. Mine is great on the street. I kept the Compression ratio down to just under 10 and it’s great.

Also, these are great to have right off the bat! Not sure correct one for your car but I’m sure the right one is there.

1974 Dodge Charger Rallye Dash Wiring Diagram



Good luck! Have fun!
Id do the 512. However I feel like I can put together a 451 much cheaper using a 440 crank. Not going through 440 source using their kit. Is this correct?
 
Id do the 512. However I feel like I can put together a 451 much cheaper using a 440 crank. Not going through 440 source using their kit. Is this correct?
Got it! Yeah probably a cheaper route. 440 Source kits are up to $2600 now..

Ive read some articles that were saying turning the 440 crank down to fit the 400 block weakens the crank. I don’t know anyone that has done this and that would have better info on it. Hopefully someone here can chime in to help out. My thought was I was going to a kit and get everything at 1 time that was needed. Pricey, yes I thought best way to go for me. Build went relatively straight forward and goes really well:).

Ill look for those articles and post up here..
 
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