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Help ID crank shafts

Cheapsunglasses

In Rust We Trust!
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Hello everyone, trying to clean out the shed and get some money to help rebuild the engine in my car.

I purchased a late 67 440 short block that was apart. I’ve also replaced a crank shaft on a 383 and had now have a spare.

That’s where I run into my problem, I have 2 crank shafts, and I can’t figure out which one is which. I’ve looked all over and I can’t find any numbers, and I can’t find a thread on how to. I would greatly appreciate help!

Don’t know if it helps, but here’s a picture

C1DC0D50-DD3B-43ED-B686-D6C1C38E4782.jpeg
 
clean one is the 440 on the left, rusted is 383 right.
 
A steel standard/standard that ain't cracked, is worth a bit, even rusty. It'll get cleaned as part of a regrind.
A cracked 030/030 is scrap weight.
Not to sound like an a$$ but “worth a bit” is a bit of a relative term, $50, $100, how much is a bit
 
Thank for the help everyone! I’ll take better pictures of rusty 383 crank and move it to a sale add. It’ll probably cost a poop ton to ship unfortunately
 
If it ends up as scrap, you can say you tried to save it
I’ll put it on fakebook, here, and end of February there’s a swap meet. Also have a friend who’s dad is a hoarder and will buy anything just to have, I think I can get it sold!:rofl:

I will never scrap parts, that’s just B.S.
 
Did you do the back yard test on it? Stand it on end, without the damper bolt, lightly tap each counterweight with a hammer. If they all ring like a tuning fork, the crank is good. Worth at least $50, if it doesn't ring, in the dumpster.
 
I did it on a couple weights just playing and got good rings.

It never occurred to me, the damper bolt effecting the ringing. The 440 crank has its damper bolt in it, and doesn’t have as crisp of a ring as the 383 w/out. Makes sense now
 
That may not be the fanciest test, but sure has been accurate for me for many years and severely abused big blocks. Never broke a crank, but pretty sure one was close. Again a steel 440 or 383 crank was designed for 5500 RPM max. I ran mine to 7000 all time, one to 7400 RPM. A BAD plan.
 
I’ll slap a $75 price tag on it, and see what happens. I don’t know if it really means anything, but if it’s the 383 crank I think it is, it’s a 66 330hp crank
 
I’m not disagreeing with you, I add just commenting, you can buy something used and expect perfection
One should be able to expect it is useable. Why waste people's time and damage your reputation by selling something without knowing what you are selling?

The window sticker of my 66 Charger reads: "standard cam" which is 325 horse, never heard of 330 horse until Magnums came along. But, I learn a lot here and it wouldn't be the first time.
 
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