Help me choose an intake manifold

[Ben nelson]

Hey everyone, I just got a 70 super bee with a 440 and a 4 speed. The engine has cleaned up 906 heads, fairly large headers, stock 4 barrel intake manifold, it is a 6 pack motor and has all been rebuilt with about 800 miles on it. It also has a fairly large cam with about 600 lift. It is only running a 750cfm carb and I think I am going to put an 850 on it that I have and I am wondering what would you guys choose for an intake manifold? I will be driving it on the street as well as going to the track. It has a 8 3/4 with 4.10 gears and a spool. I read in hot rod magazine that The Mopar performance m1 intake is the best one they tested, has anyone used one? Is it worth it to port the cylinder heads and Intake manifold? I’m 16 and looking to hop up my car a little bit. Are there any other good modifications I could do to the engine to get a little more juice out of it? Thanks in advance

 

[Aron Gleason]

The m1 intake is a good intake. If you're on Facebook look up Dominic thumper for carburetor selection.

 

[Beekeeper]

If mostly street driven I would recommend a dual plane intake just for better street manners
if mostly at the track go single plane. And you would be surprised at what extra you could possibly get by adjusting the total timing and at what rpm it’s all in on advance. BTW nice Bee!

 

[hunt2elk]

The Edelbrock Performer RPM is a great manifold.

 

[Orig69]

Will you be using an original air cleaner with the ram air hood?

 

[Ben nelson]

It has the ram air big orange piece under the hood but no stock air cleaner, I would love to be able to use the ram air with an aftermarket aluminium manifold.

 

[Beekeeper]

The options on intakes get really really slim when using the oval air cleaner base and air box aftermarket performance intakes are higher than stock. I’m sure someone has done it but it does limit you on intakes to choose from and if you haven’t priced them yet the 440 ram charger air cleaners are $$$.

 

[diesel_lv]

I like the Edelbrock RPM Performer myself. It fit under my stock '67 Coronet hood. I did grind off the heat crossover underneath so it was cleaner under there as I'm using aluminum heads w/out the ports. With if the heads were surfaced and the block was too, the Edelbrock will need a little shaved off the faces too. Unfortunately I no longer remember how much. The guys at Muscle Motors told me what they do every time and I used that number on mine.

 

[hunt2elk]

It has the ram air big orange piece under the hood but no stock air cleaner, I would love to be able to use the ram air with an aftermarket aluminium manifold.

You won't be able to use the Performer RPM with the air grabber setup unfortunately, and will be very limited in choices, especially with a 440. I used a 400 block, 440 baseplate, Weiand Action +, and a 3/16 carb spacer.

 

[Mike67]

Here are some comparisons, although the 1st article is on a B block. I think the one of the biggest considerations is to ask yourself is what rpm will you be spending most of your time? 4.10s & what size tire? There is no perfect match, top end power with a single plane or more torque down low?
But for an all around that performs well, I say the RPM...it does well across the board.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-0712-mopar-intake-manifold-comparo/
https://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/8intakessingleplanevsdualplane.php

 

[eldubb440]

old school CH4B

 

[rumblefish360]

Hey everyone, I just got a 70 super bee with a 440 and a 4 speed. The engine has cleaned up 906 heads, fairly large headers, stock 4 barrel intake manifold, it is a 6 pack motor and has all been rebuilt with about 800 miles on it. It also has a fairly large cam with about 600 lift. It is only running a 750cfm carb and I think I am going to put an 850 on it that I have and I am wondering what would you guys choose for an intake manifold? I will be driving it on the street as well as going to the track. It has a 8 3/4 with 4.10 gears and a spool. I read in hot rod magazine that The Mopar performance m1 intake is the best one they tested, has anyone used one? Is it worth it to port the cylinder heads and Intake manifold? I’m 16 and looking to hop up my car a little bit. Are there any other good modifications I could do to the engine to get a little more juice out of it? Thanks in advance

View attachment 1187895 View attachment 1187896

Nice ride. I’ve been down this path like you before. For the street, nothing beats the dual plane intake and a 850 on top of the 440 is a good upgrade. On your question of porting the heads and intake, the answer is yes yes yes. But it is pricey to port an intake and heads. Expect to la about $1,000 for a well ported intake manifold. The cylinder heads are roughly $2,000 and the roller rockers are just under a $1,000.


Here is what I recommend. A set of trick flow heads (there already CNC ported really well) and the matching rockers with a ported intake. (Edelbrock rpm if it fits) Use the 850 and tune tune tune that bad boy to the 10th degree.

I would suggest a single plane but there is one little missing information fact you have to understand is most important. First, your lift at the valve is a nice to know but the must know is the amount of duration your cam is @.050. Lift really means **** until it comes to the heads ability to flow air. The intake is partially decided by the duration and the environment it will drive in.

What is your cams duration @050?

 

[Ben nelson]

I have no idea what the duration is, don’t have a cam card. But I would guess around 240.

 

[rumblefish360]

OK, reasonable enough. Here is what I have discovered over the years. Since the Edelbrock’s rpm came out, there were just a couple of dual plane intake that could be worthy of a beast of a street ride. Making the move to a single plane isn’t just dyno numbers and pointing at the graph and shouting Ooo-Oooo-Oooo, it made more power!!!!

The single plane seems to work better if you have a cam duration @050 or at least, at least! 250@050 & even there, it’s a toss up.

Had this been about 40 years ago, I’d say single plane.
Not so today.
Also, pay the piper for a really good converter.

Dynamic
Ultimate
ProTorque

That’s where I would look!

 

[RemCharger]

Holy sh*t this went from $300 to about $5000 in the blink of an eye.
I'd say go with the M1...

 

[Master Gunner]

Porting iron heads is not really worth it when you look at the cost of stealth or edy heads. Yes, you can get some good flow, but in the end it's still iron. Aluminum offers better cooling, more comp, and about 50 lbs off the front of the car. Gasket matching/blending heads to intake is always a good idea, and doesn't take much time, so why not?
Just my opinion, which with a dollar will get you a cup of coffee.

Mark

 

[MelroseMopar]

Lack of information is kind of killing you here on the advice your getting. How often do you drive this car? The pictures say you don't live in a downtown type setting do you have to drive 20 minutes to get to town with 4.10 and a 28 inch tire you will be at or over 3000rpm at 60MPH. Do you have any kind of budget? Can you do any of the work? Your car is showing some lovely patina how much power can it handle (the body) do you need subframe connectors and torque boxes some type of traction assistance (Caltracs, Hell even some old slapper bars or a bigger snubber? With a 4 speed and 410's the first time you dump the clutch at the track and the tires stick you will have a very sad face.. all you need to do is hook up once and you will need new motor mounts, or a rear-end or a driveshaft, if they are stock and 50 years old, what do you have for a brake system with a "600 lift" cam you will be very close to not effectively being able to run a power brakes, its sweet to do 100+ MPH in a couple city blocks then forget there is a 25mph curve. Trust me that car will does not have the handling necessary for that kind of thing so you better be able to stop.

That being said to answer with the information given 410's hot street and some track and a clutch you don't need a ton of bottom end..
I would vote on the M1 or any single plane for that matter because with 4:10's and the fact your 16 you are almost always going to be in the upper RPM range where the single plane is the better choice. with a "600 lift" cam your over 250 duration. Right now the weakest link sounds like your carb if you replace that and the intake your heads will be the next limiting factor.

This is no different than any other build, motor has to breath in and out, start with the basic carb intake headers then move forward to cam heads valvetrain. just make sure you build the rest of the car to match along the way.

Good Luck Let us know how it goes!!

 

[Ben nelson]

Thanks everyone, the car will be mostly driven on the weekends just to go have fun in, not a daily driver. I plan on putting in a bigger camshaft anyways because I have a whole stack of them in my garage I bought for 100 bucks.

 

[Ben nelson]

What cam specs do you guys think would suit the car best?

 

[Canadian1968]

This is a great place to ask questions but you will learn that there is no generic answer. If you don't post it, your going to get the same question over and over " what are the details" and " what do you want from the car" . By the sounds of it , it will be a weekend warrior type car. Which means you might be able to give up some the " daily " street driven requirements.

The are some really smart people on this site, and can give you great information. But before you ask to many questions you might want to sit back and decided what you really want from this car. If you have a certain HP goal in mind?, or maybe a certain ET?, will the car ever have to be driven on the highway? There are a lot of things that need to be taken into consideration.

Your last question of " what cam would be best" is probably the biggest open ended question you could ask.