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Help w/ timing tape from "440 source"

Guido

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First... thanks to everyone for all of the help with my first Chrysler engine build. I'm almost ready to break in the cam. but became stumped when I went to put the timing tape around the harmonic balancer. I know where the TDC line goes. Well, as far as the balancer mark is concerned. I didn't degree the cam or anything esle. It's just dot to dot. It almost looks like the markings or numbers would be upside down when reading with the timing light from the passenger side if i put the tape on the direction I'm considering. could that be right or should the numbers be "right side up" if I'm viewing them from the passenger side. could someone explain it to me in a way that my simple mind can grasp? thanks in advance, D.
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Guido, the engine turns clockwise, so line the mark on the balancer up to the zero on the front cover timing guage, this is tdc on #1cyl. put the tape tdc mark on the same marks on the balancer and front cover and install it clockwise. Do you have a factory service manual? Hughs engines has a decent analogy on their site as well as many others. good luck, ain't no big deal.
 
Halt !! The whole point of using a new timing tape it to find the ACTUAL TDC location and Then install the tape. Other wise, why even do it? The cam/crank dots only give you the relationship of the camshaft to the crankshaft. TDC is the actual location of the PISTON in the cylinder. And for the timing tape to be accurate ( since it is divided into crankshaft degrees and there are 360 Degrees in a circle) you need to know that the tape and balancer diameter are compatible with each other or only the TDC mark will be correct. If the tape is for a smaller or larger diameter balancer it won't be right. Make sense ? You need to buy or make a piston stop with either an old spark plug or bolt that will thread into the sparkplug hole. Unless you are lucky enough to still have the heads off. With the stop installed, rotate the engine in either direction until it comes to a stop when it contacts the stop device that you are using. Mark that point. now rotate the engine in the opposite direction until it stops again. Mark that point. Now Exact TDC is going to be exactly half way between those marks. That is how you determine TDC the proper way.
 
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The procedure in post#3 is a valuable check to see if your balancer/timing mark is accurate. Balancers do slip & cause great confusion. A timing tape is a great benefit to setting timing, at both idle & more importantly total timing.
 
I will share a little secret with timing tape. I put one on my 69 Superbee 383 after the rebuild in 2012 and it is still on. Before I put in on I new about it not staying on so I applied a little super glue on the end where is starts then put in on around the balancer and put some on the end of the tape. That is why it is still on 8 years later.
 
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Do yourself a favor and mark the balancer inner ring orientation with the outer TDC. It can give visual indication should the outer slip.
 
Halt !! The whole point of using a new timing tape it to find the ACTUAL TDC location and Then install the tape. Other wise, why even do it? The cam/crank dots only give you the relationship of the camshaft to the crankshaft. TDC is the actual location of the PISTON in the cylinder. And for the timing tape to be accurate ( since it is divided into crankshaft degrees and there are 360 Degrees in a circle) you need to know that the tape and balancer diameter are compatible with each other or only the TDC mark will be correct. If the tape is for a smaller or larger diameter balancer it won't be right. Make sense ? You need to buy or make a piston stop with either an old spark plug or bolt that will thread into the sparkplug hole. Unless you are lucky enough to still have the heads off. With the stop installed, rotate the engine in either direction until it comes to a stop when it contacts the stop device that you are using. Mark that point. now rotate the engine in the opposite direction until it stops again. Mark that point. Now Exact TDC is going to be exactly half way between those marks. That is how you determine TDC the proper way.

That is not the whole point. And arguably you can find true TDC and mark it either on the balancer or the tab without any

tape. The tape is for full advance timing, and TDC for all pistons.

If he bought a tape for a Mopar, its the right size.

I've never found an outer ring that has spun on the hub, and never a balanced (technically balancer and crank) off by more than one degree. If the balancer looks good and the rubber looks good, I would get too spun up over it.
 
I will share a little secret with timing tape. I put one on my 69 Superbee 383 after the rebuild in 2012 and it is still on. Before I put in on I new about it not staying on so I applied a little super glue on the end where is starts then put in on around the balancer and put some on the end of the tape. That is why it is still on 8 years later.


Clear coat will help to. I have one that's been on for 30 years, and another for 40 years.
 
That is not the whole point. And arguably you can find true TDC and mark it either on the balancer or the tab without any

tape. The tape is for full advance timing, and TDC for all pistons.

If he bought a tape for a Mopar, its the right size.

I've never found an outer ring that has spun on the hub, and never a balanced (technically balancer and crank) off by more than one degree. If the balancer looks good and the rubber looks good, I would get too spun up over it.
I had a stock mopar balancer on my 440, that I never thought was running to potential. During a freshen-up, I found that the tdc mark was off by six degrees. I don't think the ring moved, just that the mark was off. What I thought was 38° total, turned out to be 32°.
Should have checked when I put it together the first time. Wouldn't have found it the second time except for dialing in a new cam.
 
Won't work with an msd box.
Edit: I don't know of any dial-back that will work properly with an msd. Anybody know of one?

They say it doesn't (might be referring to another model?), but I have the same one and it works just fine. If you read more replies to that question using that summit link, other people have no issues either.
 
Won't work with an msd box.
Edit: I don't know of any dial-back that will work properly with an msd. Anybody know of one?

For total timing where using the dial-back function at RPMs around 3,000+ it works great. The Multi-spark is only at lower RPMs.
It also works with the MSD when there are multi-spark, but the timing may look like it is jumping around a bit.
This timing light works better with the MSD than my old Actron (chrome) dial back timing light.
 
Won't work with an msd box.
Edit: I don't know of any dial-back that will work properly with an msd. Anybody know of one?

I have an innovus dial back light that works with my MSD6 analog. At least I think it does lol. Wouldn't it be funny to find out my timing has been off for the last 20 years lol...
 
Post number six. This question was asked by someone doing his First build. My advice is to never assume anything is right just because something is new or someone says it is ok. Learn how to check/verify things for your self. If you want to know what true TDC is, there is a process to do so. Don't just assume that the tape is correct. He might have the wrong part. You think that never happens ?? Not in my world. Good idea to mark the inner and outer damper rings for possible future slip. It Has happened before. Just giving some things to think about. It is always good to learn, not just follow others opinions.
 
Post number six. This question was asked by someone doing his First build. My advice is to never assume anything is right just because something is new or someone says it is ok. Learn how to check/verify things for your self. If you want to know what true TDC is, there is a process to do so. Don't just assume that the tape is correct. He might have the wrong part. You think that never happens ?? Not in my world. Good idea to mark the inner and outer damper rings for possible future slip. It Has happened before. Just giving some things to think about. It is always good to learn, not just follow others opinions.
 
Thank u very much. A very good point u have there. I went through to brand new sets of Edelbrock heads before I found a set that I was willing to use and they still needed much work. I won't get into the rest of it, but got several brand new parts that were not "up to snuff" I did use a piston stop and the timing mark is correct. Well, the high side of it is right on. I'm dyslexic, so I have to check, re-check, and check again untill I get t he same result or answer twice. Only then do I feel safe to proceed. The tape is the right size for the balancer. Just looking at it fried my tiny brain and I became very confused. I have not applied it yet. But I will before initial start and cam break-in... I'm hoping to do the first start 5/8 Fri. Had extra hours all week and no time to finish install. It's wrapped up in plastic like a new toy or something. I'm a little scared that I missed something. I haven't rebuilt a motor in years. Thanks again.

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