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Hemi Cross Ram Intake Install Help Needed

70rcode

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Need fastener bolt install info for factory magnesium intake install on my new 426 inch hemi build...Saw a cross rammed A990 S/S hemi suck down a fastener bolt years ago with disasterous results & I can't afford same to happen to me.....The 48 & 72 inch/pound torque specs seem scary rediculous loose !! What is the correct install procedure to prevent any loosened bolt suck downs ?? Does thread locker work here ?? .....Thx for any experienced help,.....tom
 
You need to torque the bolts until they hold torque. The gasket compress'slowly so bolts loosen. I slightly over torque them to speed the process, I don't OT the 2 bolt on outside of manifold. Don't want to stress those two. I usually do it over a couple days. I check them periodically. Friend and I almost had that disaster happen. Pete Haldeman NHOA President printed this process shortly after the near disaster.
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I may be completely misunderstanding what you're referring to but unless a bolt comes loose, gets sucked up inside the air cleaner past the filter, through the carburetor, it should be just fine torqued to spec.
 
I may be completely misunderstanding what you're referring to but unless a bolt comes loose, gets sucked up inside the air cleaner past the filter, through the carburetor, it should be just fine torqued to spec.
Crossram bolts are in the plenum chamber and go down intake port and boom.
 
I may be completely misunderstanding what you're referring to but unless a bolt comes loose, gets sucked up inside the air cleaner past the filter, through the carburetor, it should be just fine torqued to spec.
You need to look at the intake they are talking about. The bolts are inside the intake plenum.
 
Thx Fran,.... Considering & Surprising No factory Lock washer hardware is used (the captured flat washer encourages loosening ! ) .....what about the rather new "Nord--Lock" Safety Wedge Lock washer system ? .... Anyone using or have thoughts if this modern Tension based simple Locking hardware would Significantly assure anti- vibration bolt loosening & suck downs ??
 
I'd have to look up Nord--Lock. So I'm no help on that.
 
The simplest solution for the plenum bolts is to drill the heads for safety wire. Then you can feel safer. Many intake bolts are as little as 1/4 turn after seating since there is no water going thru intakes for those who no nothing about Hemis. Also some bolts are as little as 12 -15 inch pounds.
 
I would not even use a magnesium intake just buy a new Mopar Aluminum cross ram with removable top. Then you can modify it drill it fix it when it does crack which they all do.
 
As I don't have don't have a mag crack issue yet & plan Not to exceed the factory 48 & 72 inch lbs (only 4 & 6 ft. lbs !!) specs,...just focused on within tightening spec proven reliable "bolts won't suck out" between torque check inspections as factory stock hardware provides No friction lock washer whatsoever....What hardware-- method are you guys using to Insure no bolt suck downs between inspections ??
 
I would not even use a magnesium intake just buy a new Mopar Aluminum cross ram with removable top. Then you can modify it drill it fix it when it does crack which they all do.
Does Chrysler still make them? A&A trans has aluminum. Never had a problem with my mag cross ram. Just don't get it burning!
 
All Hemi's have the same procedure. It takes 6 to 8 run cycles with a re-torque after every run. Once they quit moving you are golden. The main reason on the cross rams is the time. They are not like the regular intakes. Pull the air cleaner and 5 minutes you are done. With that being said I would suspect any eaten bolts on a cross ram were from lazy neglect.
 
Looked at a video of that Nord-Lock washer. Would work in a no gasket situation. With a gasket you'd still need to compress the gasket. I used up to 12 ft lbs except the bolts on outside on the 3 or 4 times torquing bolts.
 
Thinking out of the box here. You could complete the needed run cycles and re-torquing for the gaskets to fully compress. Then take each bolt out one by one clean the threads and a drop of blue loctite and torque the bolt.
 
Thx for that suggestion pnora ! .....not being familiar with it all,. I hadn't considered checking & re-torquing after Every run 'till finally settled & stabilized ! ....Prob more than 5 mins for me, ..Don't I have to pull both carbs to hit the 3 bolts there or can I reach thru the carb throttle bores ??
 
Thx for that suggestion pnora ! .....not being familiar with it all,. I hadn't considered checking & re-torquing after Every run 'till finally settled & stabilized ! ....Prob more than 5 mins for me, ..Don't I have to pull both carbs to hit the 3 bolts there or can I reach thru the carb throttle bores ??
You will have to remove what ever is in the way. What manifold do you have? It is just a necessary evil of owning a Hemi. I would not over think it. Even if you have to pull the carbs your total time would be less than a hour.
 
I Really like your "outta the box" thought on the post settled--stabilized & individually cleaned & blue Loctite Final tightening......Gonna give that a real good think on !! Thx greatly Sir !! ......tom
 
Thx Fran, for taking the time to view & opine your thoughts on the Nord--Lock product video.....My initial thought--plan was to use new Hex drive cap bolts Without the oem Captive Smooth finish Flat washers & fit the Directionally Serrated finished, 1 way ratcheting, Wedge--Locking Nord lock washers on.....I don't see any Harmful effects & the Nord washers would seem to provide at least some bolt Anti--Rotating Holding effect (from the double sided serrated finish & wedge ratchet cuts) Even During the relaxed--compressed gasket intervals compared to the Smooth oem captive washer design.....At least an additional, non-harmful, all mechanical Anti--Rotational back--up functionality ?? .....Your thoughts ?? Thx again,.....tom
 
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