Here is what's on my table

Resto-Mods & Pro-Touring forum

  1. Boise68

    Boise68 Well-Known Member

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    Beginning the build of my 68 Coronet cruiser project that may see time at the Silver State Challenge 2014. I am determined to accomplish some upgrades while keeping it on the road.

    Starting with suspension upgrade, to date is Hotchkis rear leaf and fox shocks. Up front Helwig 1 1/8 tubular stabilizer. Now I am ready to tackle a complete rebuild of the front suspension: Polygraphite® Performance Super Front End Kit, Hotchkis Torsion Bars 1.1", Hotchkis
    Fox shocks and upper control arms.

    Oh, I have little experience with suspension rebuild.

    1.) Looking at the Universal Front Suspension Pro Tool Kit from Mancini, http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/unfrsuprotok.html

    2.) To finish all the new PST parts, woud paint be appropriate or protective clear coat?

    3.) A recommend for caster camber guage.

    I have shop manual, Hotchkis install video, and have surfed the entire internet for info. Any heads-ups, before-you-begins, would be appreciated.

    Did I mention new disc brakes up front? Thanks up front. Michael

    Xmas2012.jpg HotchkisRearLeafs.jpg

    Xmas2012.jpg HotchkisRearLeafs.jpg
     
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    • tallhair

      tallhair Rufus "Mod-hair" Firefly Staff Member

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      sorry i can't offer any do's and don't but the car looks great in the pic with the mountains as your backdrop. good luck boise68. Looking forward to feedback on how it goes for you.
       
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      • snakeyes

        snakeyes Well-Known Member

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        :eusa_think:sure is very nice looking ,thanks for sharing your car with us keep on posting your updates with us :icon_thumright::headbang::headbang:
         
      • HEMI-ITIS

        HEMI-ITIS STREETER on LI FBBO Gold Member

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        Dig your ride!
         
      • 67 coronet

        67 coronet Well-Known Member

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        with that big of a modification from stock you will need to play with some differnt caster anges for sure to get what you like.i would try to zero the toe and camber to start.
         
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        • tracy

          tracy Well-Known Member

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          love the stance
           
        • 747mopar

          747mopar FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Beautiful car, can't help though because I'll be asking the same question in the near future. Best of luck
           
        • Propwash

          Propwash Well-Known Member

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          Sweet!
           
        • roadrunnerman

          roadrunnerman Well-Known Member

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          Nice car. Paint, wheels, and the full length body side moulding really helps set it off.
           
        • Boise68

          Boise68 Well-Known Member

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          finally started the front end rebuild

          With Wilwoods arrived, and better weather I finally started the front end rebuild.
          WilwoodAdvisor.jpg

          Surprised how easy the torsion bar (.92) removed once the strut rod was detached from the control arm. Used a wood clamp and light tap, pop, done. Honorable mention to PB blaster, no difficulty removing the control arm pivot pin. The pivot pin was easily removed with a press, as well as the rubber bushing which seemed in fair condition.
          L_lower1.jpg

          Referencing Jim Lusk's http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nwes-SP8u4w the control arm checked ok for end-play of the adjuster arm. More on endplay later...

          Soaked the lower control arm overnight in an electrolyte bath to remove rust, now ready for the stiffening plate.
          ElectroliteBath.jpg

          Weld prep.
          WeldPrep.jpg

          The fella welding the plate (semi-conductor equipment fabricator) thought the sitffening plate was too thin to accomplish anything but assured me the weld would hold it in place.

          L-lower2.jpg

          I am leaning towards the poly bushing for pivot pin, though some favor the rubber bushing.

          **Note, the end-play of the adjuster arm opened up a little during the weld of the stiffening plate. At the risk of insulting the fabricator I didn't mention this but it is something to watch.

          I have seen where some paint the lower control arm a 'gold' to imitate cosmoline, etc. I have POR-15 Metal Mask for use on the spindle, any thoughts on the gold lower control arm treatment?
           
          Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
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          • Boise68

            Boise68 Well-Known Member

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            • tallhair

              tallhair Rufus "Mod-hair" Firefly Staff Member

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              Didn't Jim hold the two sides together with a vise or visegrips?
               
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              • Boise68

                Boise68 Well-Known Member

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                Yeah I see that now watching the video again, thanks. ;)
                 
              • Boise68

                Boise68 Well-Known Member

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                Painting grey over the gold isn't quite the same as Troy's over on moparts but I'll see what the passenger side turns out.

                lcpaint2.jpg
                 
              • Boise68

                Boise68 Well-Known Member

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                Upgraded the control arms to Firm Feel, and upgraded tie rods to the 11/16 ends. Ready for assembly.
                Any preference for grease on the ball joints, perhaps Mobile 1 synthetic?

                FirmFeel.jpg
                 
              • 67 coronet

                67 coronet Well-Known Member

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                synthetic grease is a good choice.better crush resistance.what sort of bushings in the tubular arms?i went with sphereical end links on mine.
                 
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                • Boise68

                  Boise68 Well-Known Member

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                  The uppers are Firm Feel, and I hope I got the urethane bushings. Thanks for the nod on synthetic grease.

                  - - - Updated - - -

                  Got the Wilwood brackets mounted, for the Front Brake Kit No.: 140-10815-R. There was a little difficult with the radial bracket lower bolt/steering knuckle clearance?
                  Wilwood Bracket.jpg RadialBracketLowerMountBolt.jpg
                   
                • Dave Pratt

                  Dave Pratt Well-Known Member

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                  Great work on the suspension...thinking of doing something along that line to my 70RR...when you said you gave the LCA's an electrolyte bath what did that mean?Can you further explain that method?...thanks

                  Dave
                   
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                  • Boise68

                    Boise68 Well-Known Member

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                    Dave, thanks for the cheers, the electrolyte bath is something I have used with wood working antique tool restoration and an entire Straight 8 engine block.
                    http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.co...st_removal.htm

                    I get the washing soda--Sodium carbonate--from Fred Meyers, though not sure what you have in BC. Washingsoda is better than baking soda--sodium bicarbonate. For the LC arm I just used a 5 gallon plastic paint bucket, fill with water, 5 tlbs of washing soda using a L-shaped piece of rebar as the anode--hooked to positive of battery charger. The LCA is then suspended but fully immersed into the water, NOT TOUCHING the rebar. The negative is clamped to the LCA.

                    I did degrease the LCA first. The positive clamp should never touch the water it will corrode, the negative can be wet---rust travels from negative to positive. If your connections are good you should see a little bubbling within 10 minutes, and rust will pool at water level around the rebar. It should only take overnight. Pull it out of the water and work it over with a drill and wire brush attachments, ten minutes. The cool thing is that it doesn't alter the metal surface like some rust removal processes. I did my spindles and strut rods as well. All for the price of running a battery charger-on 12 volt and high amps.
                     
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                    • Budnicks

                      Budnicks You Can Just Thank Me Latter FBBO Gold Member

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                      suspension work looks great...
                       
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