I squeezed the upper hose, there was no pressure before I took the cap off.NEVER! EVER! DO THIS! You could have been seriously scalded. I had a friend open a cap on a hot radiator when I was in high school. He ended up badly burned and with permanent scars. Never pop the radiator cap on a car until it is completely cooled down. You dodged a bullet this time. Lucky for you at 16, so please take this advice.
Radiator hoses are actually in perfect shape, so that's last on the list, Otherwise, i've got all the fluids replaced except brake fluid, and got all the belts replaced, sounds alot better, no more floppy belts.Welcome from Illinois!! Congratulations on acquiring your first car. Trust you'll be checking/replacing the tires and all rubber hoses plus changing all fluids along with those new belts.
You were correct about the radiator cap, threw a new one on, and build good pressure. Got a few of the drums off today and it's an awful mess, one of the wheel cylinders was a dark red somehow? I'll definitely be rebuilding those.Welcome to the forum.
First up, thank you for introducing yourself rather than just jumping in and asking for help. Some people are not as considerate.
You obviously paid attention in school because your writing skills are great. That isn't a strict requirement but it sure makes reading your posts a lot easier.
"I could use belt sizes, and maybe a diagram I don’t have the owners manual. All the belts are extremely loose and dry rotted.
3 wheels are completely seized, and the brake pedal is rock solid, no movement.
The radiator is not building pressure, I can take the cap off with it hot. But I have hot heat in the car, so coolant is flowing through the heater core.
I have no temp gauge or gas gauge, neither have moved at all."
First, there are listings on Rock Auto for fan belts. They may be able to help. www.RockAuto.com
The reason that the wheels are seized is likely because the brakes have leaked fluid and left crust and rust inside the drums. These will need to be rebuilt. The brake pedal is likely stuck for the same reason.....rust had "frozen" it in place. Lucky for you, all the parts you'd need are readily available.
If the radiator and heater core are not leaking, you may just have a defective radiator cap.
The gas gauge may work, it is probably the sending unit in the gas tank that has failed. They get rusty. The float that moves up and down with the level of the gas often gets small holes in it over time and it falls to the bottom of the tank and stays there.
The temperature gauge relies on a small sending unit located in the intake manifold. They usually don't fail. It is often an issue with the gauge itself when they don't move.
Any more questions? I'm feeling smart today.....
View attachment 1378992
Was wondering if it could be a ground, also noticed my flashers switch does nothing, but signal stock works.Nice 67, great score! Welcome from OH. Gauges are possibly a crusty ground connection. Dash is grounded to chassis, gauge cluster grounded to dash through retaining screws. Good luck!
Rust can do that. Open up the MC and see what it looks like inside. Brake fluid attracts moisture. Also, we have several tech sections for the various systems of the car and you will probably get more response in those for each of the different systems....plus it would probably be easier to keep track of it.You were correct about the radiator cap, threw a new one on, and build good pressure. Got a few of the drums off today and it's an awful mess, one of the wheel cylinders was a dark red somehow? I'll definitely be rebuilding those.