Holley 950 carb with no choke slow to warm up

Rip25

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I have a Holley 4150HP 950cfm carb (no choke) on my '68 Charger with a 440. A little backstory, this car was ran on NHRA in the 2000's. Full roll cage, ratchet shifter, trans brake, big cam. I'm working to make it more street ready. Without the choke, it takes a good 7 minutes to warm up. I'm thinking of getting a carb (with a choke) more for the street or putting in EFI. Which way would y'all go?

I read these forums a lot and the amount of collective knowledge in here is tremendous. I appreciate all opinions and experience that y'all can share with me. Pic of my charger as she sits now.

20210921_193041.jpg
 

toolmanmike

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Carb with a electric choke. I would also check the thermostat. It might not have one.
 

wagonman

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Keep the Carb unless going Port FI. I assume Heads have no heat crossover or anything to warm the carb or intake. Ever seen guys warming up their cars at the drags Ya have to. Price we pay to play. I am sure a carb with a auto or manual choke is out there for your combo. Nice looking car by the way. Love the Slots.
 

Geoff 2

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Only 7 min to warm up? I would be veeeeery happy with that.

Checking to see if it has a t/stat is a good idea. A lot of idiots leave them out....
 

Dave6T4

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See if the exhaust heat crossover under the carb has been plugged. A lot of racers did that. Maybe your intake has no provision for crossover heat?
 

Mr. Cranky

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How does it act once it's warmed up? No hesitation ever? I've never ran a carb that big on the street but have run mostly 650's and 750 DP's on the street without a choke and never had to take that long to get warmed up enough to drive off. A couple of minutes at the most unless the weather was in the 30's or lower.....and that doesn't happen all that often in the lower half of Texas.
 

MWbirdLOVER70

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I have a Holley 4150HP 950cfm carb (no choke) on my '68 Charger with a 440. A little backstory, this car was ran on NHRA in the 2000's. Full roll cage, ratchet shifter, trans brake, big cam. I'm working to make it more street ready. Without the choke, it takes a good 7 minutes to warm up. I'm thinking of getting a carb (with a choke) more for the street or putting in EFI. Which way would y'all go?

I read these forums a lot and the amount of collective knowledge in here is tremendous. I appreciate all opinions and experience that y'all can share with me. Pic of my charger as she sits now.

View attachment 1343912
Gorgeous Charger brother
 

Rip25

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How does it act once it's warmed up? No hesitation ever?
Once warmed up is very responsive. It has old rubber on it (tires already ordered) so it spins the rear too easy. Don't worry, I'm not driving it around until it's safe.
 

Mr. Cranky

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Once warmed up is very responsive. It has old rubber on it (tires already ordered) so it spins the rear too easy. Don't worry, I'm not driving it around until it's safe.
How does it act in this 90+ degree weather after it's been running for about 30 seconds and you gently try to drive off?
 

steve340

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I find carbs with the 4 corner idle circuit will idle almost straight off from cold.
That is with no choke but it will depend on the weather/winter cold.
I had a 750 Holley with 2 circuit idle and the car would only idle properly when at nearly normal run temp.
 

RJRENTON

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I have a Holley 4150HP 950cfm carb (no choke) on my '68 Charger with a 440. A little backstory, this car was ran on NHRA in the 2000's. Full roll cage, ratchet shifter, trans brake, big cam. I'm working to make it more street ready. Without the choke, it takes a good 7 minutes to warm up. I'm thinking of getting a carb (with a choke) more for the street or putting in EFI. Which way would y'all go?

I read these forums a lot and the amount of collective knowledge in here is tremendous. I appreciate all opinions and experience that y'all can share with me. Pic of my charger as she sits now.

View attachment 1343912
The origional Holley 3 barrel carb R-6404 Model 3160 950 CFM, HAD a manual choke blade assembly, cable operated.
1663454112921.png
1663454112921.png
1663455012247.png
1663455012247.png

Later addition rated at 1050 CFM and no down leg secondary booster venturi, but just nozzles in the center of the secondary throttle bore. I've no personal experience with the design, but know others who've had used them. Because of the large primary bores/venturii, cold operation was problematic and the manual choke had to be "feathered" until warmed up. Does your carb still have the choke shaft, blade, etc still present or has it been removed? The origional Holley carb (un-molested) are VERY EXPENSIVE....worth ~
$ 1200 and are not convertible to electric choke coil operation........ Just talking out loud.....
BOB RENTON
 

BSB67

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The 950HP does not have a choke.

Living in MI, OH and PA and not having a choke on my muscle car for 45 years it’s hard to imagine needing one in TX.

In TX, with the carb idle mixture adjusted and plenty of initial timing, I would think you could drive away after one or two minutes. Otherwise buy a carb with a choke, open the cross over if blocked, and make sure the exhaust manifold heat riser is working
 

Mr. Cranky

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The 950HP does not have a choke.

Living in MI, OH and PA and not having a choke on my muscle car for 45 years it’s hard to imagine needing one in TX.

In TX, with the carb idle mixture adjusted and plenty of initial timing, I would think you could drive away after one or two minutes. Otherwise buy a carb with a choke, open the cross over if blocked, and make sure the exhaust manifold heat riser is working
I've lived in Texas all of my driving life and was able to get my truck started with no choke in 25 degree weather. That does happen from time to time here. Have to admit, it took several tries and plenty of pumps on the loud pedal to get the thing fired up and then there was plenty of 'feathering' to keep it running once it stayed running until it was ready to drive. Next door neighbor had the same problem with her Cad and I got going before she did! Her car was stock from the factory.
 

Rip25

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How does it act in this 90+ degree weather after it's been running for about 30 seconds and you gently try to drive off?
I have to keep feathering the gas to keep it from dying. It has trouble keeping idle up. Once it's warm, it runs like a top.
 

Mr. Cranky

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I have to keep feathering the gas to keep it from dying. It has trouble keeping idle up. Once it's warm, it runs like a top.
You're having trouble keeping it running at fire up in this Texas heat??
 

Rip25

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You're having trouble keeping it running at fire up in this Texas heat??
Just for the first 7 minutes, then no issues. I have a couple other things to do before I really jump on the carb. Power steering, and because of the Texas heat, AC. Car has neither right now and installing these next week.
 

Rip25

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The origional Holley 3 barrel carb R-6404 Model 3160 950 CFM, HAD a manual choke blade assembly, cable operated.
View attachment 1344274View attachment 1344274View attachment 1344304View attachment 1344304
Later addition rated at 1050 CFM and no down leg secondary booster venturi, but just nozzles in the center of the secondary throttle bore. I've no personal experience with the design, but know others who've had used them. Because of the large primary bores/venturii, cold operation was problematic and the manual choke had to be "feathered" until warmed up. Does your carb still have the choke shaft, blade, etc still present or has it been removed? The origional Holley carb (un-molested) are VERY EXPENSIVE....worth ~
$ 1200 and are not convertible to electric choke coil operation........ Just talking out loud.....
BOB RENTON
Like BSB said, there is no choke at all, never was.

20210923_190828.jpg
 
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