Holley EFI Pump

[JimKueneman]

This seems like a most excellent solution to adding EFI to your B Body. No return line needed. I love this solution.

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...mps/in-tank_retrofit_fuel_module/parts/12-131

After mocking up my tank ('68 Coronet) there is no area on the top of the tank that allows 1.5" of free space. A couple of thoughts

1) Put a slight tip in the tank to drop the back so it will fit.
2) Add an access panel and cover in the trunk under the spare tire.

I don't find a lot of information about this on the web but a thread with a company that specializes in EFI conversions says this one of the few things he recommends for EFI conversion (does not like Tanks Inc for long term material compatibility concerns).

Has anyone converted their B body with this conversion? How did it go, how did you do it?

Jim

 

[Fran Blacker]

There is a thread on this website "EFI fuel tank for 70 Charger" do a search for it. Looked at Tanks, what do you man "Long term material compatibility"?

 

[cudak888]

Neither the clamp design or the foam fill me with confidence, though I may be entirely wrong.

What does concern me is the lack of any sump baffle to prevent loss of fuel pressure during cornering or steep inclines. At least the Tanks system has that built in.

At any rate, it would be interesting if the pump hole on the Tanks Inc. EFI B-Body tank could accept the Holley pump, though I would be concerned if the fuel would then try leaking out of the unused mounting holes.

-Kurt

 

[JimKueneman]

Yes, I plan to experiment with my old damaged tank to cut the hole and try to see about adding a baffle (either using polysulfide to epoxy it in or weld it if I can get in through the 3.5" hole. I also plan to look at some strengthening ribs around where the hole is cut too. I have the same concerns.

 

[cudak888]

Yes, I plan to experiment with my old damaged tank to cut the hole and try to see about adding a baffle (either using polysulfide to epoxy it in or weld it if I can get in through the 3.5" hole. I also plan to look at some strengthening ribs around where the hole is cut too. I have the same concerns.

Not sure if I follow you - do you have a damaged Tanks Inc. tank already, or are you modifying a stock one?

-Kurt

 

[mmissile]

That will work fine for basic needs. I prefer the Walbro set-ups. Tanks Inc. sells a bunch of cool stuff. They also sell a pan/tray for dropping the pump below flush, on the top of the tank. It requires welding, but is a clean setup.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...duct_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...t_id=370/category_id=167/mode=prod/prd370.htm

 

[Fran Blacker]

It's a lot of money to put out. If you have doubts about product. Buying a cheaper repo tank or modifying your tank if you can find a person who is good at welding. Had a guy solder on a sump on a gas tank I wouldn't do that with the weight of a pump attached to it. Took a look at Summit and I see your problem. What about those fuel mats attached to the pump that supply fuel in hard corning. Didn't see kits with a weld it panel to mount pump. Like mmissile's post.

 

[JimKueneman]

Not sure if I follow you - do you have a damaged Tanks Inc. tank already, or are you modifying a stock one?

-Kurt

My factory tank took a beating with the tow truck J-Hooks and has a hole in it. Plan to use that as a test unit.

 

[cudak888]

My factory tank took a beating with the tow truck J-Hooks and has a hole in it. Plan to use that as a test unit.

Gotcha.

You know, quite a few fellows on the A-Body have welded recesses into Spectra repops before; the Holley pump should be entirely doable this way:

(Via http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/aftermarket-duster-fuel-tank.298932/page-2)

-Kurt

 

[JimKueneman]

That will work fine for basic needs. I prefer the Walbro set-ups. Tanks Inc. sells a bunch of cool stuff. They also sell a pan/tray for dropping the pump below flush, on the top of the tank. It requires welding, but is a clean setup.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...duct_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...t_id=370/category_id=167/mode=prod/prd370.htm

That was my first plan but after reading this I am less confident in the Tanks Inc stuff. He seems to have a lot of experience in EFI conversations and the problems that occur down the road (like the Tanks Inc yellow zinc plating being attacked from modern fuel).

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/holley-sniper-in-hand-let-the-q-and-a-begin.27320/

 

[JimKueneman]

Gotcha.

You know, quite a few fellows on the A-Body have welded recesses into Spectra repops before; the Holley pump should be entirely doable this way:

(Via http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/aftermarket-duster-fuel-tank.298932/page-2)

-Kurt

I like that idea.... Then a round baffle that circles the pump can be welded in as well. Will need to find a better welder than I am to do that though.

 

[JimKueneman]

Better yet I could use the old fuel tank to cut out a patch of the top of it to make correctly contoured drop plate in a Tanks Inc Repro....

I now see what you mean about the fuel mat. My concern there is there is a LOT of force smashing against that big thing without a baffle.

Also I just remembered that the Holley pump needs 7.25" of depth and the factory tank is just about 7.25" deep.... I can't do the recess.... Putting the factory 2 barrel back on is looking more appealing ;)

 

[Fran Blacker]

Competition Engineering sump and an inline pump is the easy way out. When you add it to the bottom of tank you don't cut one big hole but a group of smaller ones.
Who said Hot Rodding is easy!

 

[JimKueneman]

What about something like this...

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...78vVGGnRta8sI7BVocxubCVDaeplZ_pt8IaAvmf8P8HAQ

 

[JimKueneman]

What about something like this...

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...78vVGGnRta8sI7BVocxubCVDaeplZ_pt8IaAvmf8P8HAQ

Of course the B body does not have a large enough flat spot on the bottom of the tank.... This is about 4.5" round and the largest flat spot on the tank it about 3.5".

 

[JimKueneman]

This looks perfect! I have some questions in to them..

https://www.grdiesel.com/store/fuel-injection/billet-aluminum-bottom-sump-w-integrated-return

 

[dieseldazzle]

That was my first plan but after reading this I am less confident in the Tanks Inc stuff. He seems to have a lot of experience in EFI conversations and the problems that occur down the road (like the Tanks Inc yellow zinc plating being attacked from modern fuel).

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/holley-sniper-in-hand-let-the-q-and-a-begin.27320/

Lots of things I don't agree with in his post but I will only speak on what I have first hand knowledge of.

Fitech, you can use a stock dist but you do give up timing control with the handheld. You CAN fit a drop base air cleaner over the fittings and you CAN run it returnless.

For 995 with 100 mail in rebate or if you only want 400hp capable then 795 with mail in rebate you can't go wrong.

It is a full wideband and cd box (msd etc)

I used push tight aeroquip fittings with aeroquip 250psi hose and fuel labs inline filter.

Tanks inc tank with their drop in and universal sending unit. It was a pain in the butt to get the sending unit and drop in baffle tray in I wil admit.

Haven't had issue with it over 3,000 miles now and tuned the cold starts a bit.

I had it dialed with the Eddie carb on it but took it to higher elevations once and it was a turd hence the reason for the efi switch