Holley HyperSpark (for Holley Sniper EFI)

[Sweet5ltr]

Just took the plunge and ordered the complete HyperSpark system for my Holley Sniper EFI kit. This allows total control of spark & fuel from either the Holley EFI software or handheld controller. Biggest advantage seems to be from the hall effect distributor for accurate timing.



Anyone other than AndyF running the HyperSpark setup? Good, bad, ugly?

 

[Cncguy1]

So you can set timing buy computer? That would be interesting.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

So you can set timing buy computer? That would be interesting.

Yes, everything can be done from the handheld controller or Holley EFI software.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I’ve been tossing the idea of getting the dual sync distributor for the Terminator now that the price has come down to 345.

Keep us posted on how it turns out.

 

[coloradodave]

My MSD Pro Billet distributor is controlled by my FiTech EFI. You can set initial timing, the curve and total. Also, you can change the numbers with the hand-held device on the fly...
I'm including this for general information, not to deride the Holley system...

 

[Sweet5ltr]

My MSD Pro Billet distributor is controlled by my FiTech EFI. You can set initial timing, the curve and total. Also, you can change the numbers with the hand-held device on the fly...
I'm including this for general information, not to deride the Holley system...

Yes, it makes it a lot more user friendly when everything can be programmed from one interface. Mainly wanted the new hall-effect distributor, that should provide the best potential for improvement.

 

[andyf]

Here is the Hot Rod article that I just sent in: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/holley-hyperspark-install-tune/

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Great article Andyf, all of my Hyperspark components should arrive today.

Andy, we need your tuning secrets, what parameters did you change to enable the cruise timing advance via the Holley EFI software. My engine is setup pretty much the same way, around 20* initial & 32-34* advance, all in around 2,500 RPM. Is it something you can setup in the softwares timing table, I haven't touched its timing capabilities (only glanced at the EFI software a few times) and any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[5.7 hemi]

X2!

 

[andyf]

You need to either hook up a laptop to your Sniper, or download the global file to the SD card and then put the SD card into a computer with the Holley SW to tune the full ignition table. I don't think the handheld allows you to access the full ignition table. There should be a vacuum advance button in the handheld but I don't think there is.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

You need to either hook up a laptop to your Sniper, or download the global file to the SD card and then put the SD card into a computer with the Holley SW to tune the full ignition table. I don't think the handheld allows you to access the full ignition table. There should be a vacuum advance button in the handheld but I don't think there is.

Okay, great, the Holley forum gave me a bit more info, it looks fairly simple to adjust for idle, cruise, and WOT on the timing table (through the software). I have the Holley EFI software, special interface cable, and a dedicated Windows 10 tablet setup already. Just haven't found a need to adjust any fuel parameters, seems to do a great job by itself, typically use the software for the gauge panel display.

 

[andyf]

My handheld doesn't allow me to adjust the ignition table for some reason so I use the laptop. Could be a version issue or something else. I never bothered to get it fixed since I just use the laptop for tuning. There are some buttons on the handheld for idle, cruise and WOT. There is also a cranking timing setting and boost retard. If you want to get fancier than that then you need to plug in the laptop.

 

[Mike67]

I’ve been tossing the idea of getting the dual sync distributor for the Terminator now that the price has come down to 345.

Keep us posted on how it turns out.

I bought mine already, couldn't beat the price...make sure you buy the 203 not the 201, the 1st gen had corrosion issues. the 2nd gen has supposedly corrected that according to Holley.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Are you talking about the Sniper or the distributor? I have the Terminator, considering getting the dual sync, not the HyperSpark.

 

[Mike67]

Are you talking about the Sniper or the distributor? I have the Terminator, considering getting the dual sync, not the HyperSpark.

The diz, I bought the Dual. Sync...I have the Terminator too....sounded like a better fit for the Terminator

 

[5.7 hemi]

They are on sale now for 350 and you can get them in Black anodized.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Well, I should provide an update.

If you purchase the Hyperspark Distributor for a 383-400 Chrysler, please measure the mounting surface to distributor shaft tip length. Chrysler OEM is 3.5". Hypersparks were being built in the low-range tolerance which only allows the tip to seat into the distributor drive gear 1/16", OAL from mounting surface to distributor shaft tip being around 3.375". Holley will correct this mistake, free of charge.

Update two, updated both the ECU and handheld FW, re-ran the Wizard on the Sniper EFI.
Looked on the Holley forum, well, it's not exactly like the video if you don't have a 300-HP Chevrolet. Instructions say, drop in the distributor when the #1 piston is on the compression stroke @ TDC, finger on the port, blows it off, TDC is right on with the balancer. Okay, move on to step two. Drop in the Distributor, place on the clear cap, rotate housing until the cap seats. Mark where the clear cap is cut to show where the #1 spark plug is located. Install cap and spark plug wires, update the firmware, and you're ready to fire it up (according to video).

**** REALITY ****
Now, disconnect the fuel pump power, loosen up the distributor hold down, with a friend, grab a timing light, spin the engine over while verifying if the timing is 15*, if it's not, rotate the distributor CW/CCW until its set at 15* during cranking, and tighten it down. This is a critical step, wasted a lot of time because we didn't do this. Installed just like the installation video, car wouldn't start, would fire off after five seconds of cranking and die immediately, only reason it would attempt to fire is I had the throttle wide open and the (cold start) primer fuel dropped into the cylinders. Checked power at the coil, power at the distributor, verified the coil was providing spark, everything you do when it's not lighting off.

Started rotating the distributor housing, finally got it to fire off and half-way run with the timing being way off and were on the verge of carbon monoxide poisoning from the un-burnt fuel. Have a timing light ready, must verify the timing is correct when cranking and when it starts, there is a procedure to do so. Would have been a prime candidate for a Road Kill episode.

Should have actually read the complete instruction manual rather than relying on the install video! Verify timing before trying to start the car, biggest takeaway here. Leave the default timing settings in until it starts and runs.

 

[andyf]

Yep, anytime you're running full computer control on the timing it is a good idea to double check with a timing light before trying to start the engine. It gets confusing trying to figure out where the distributor has to be to get the correct reference angle so the easy thing is to double check with a timing light.

Now that you have it timed correctly you should double check to see what the timing is when the rotor is pointed directly at #1. It should be around 30 degrees BTDC. Once you know that number you'll be able to take things apart and get them back together correctly. If it is 30 degrees then you just have to rotate the engine to 30 BTDC and then drop the distributor in with the rotor pointed to the #1 tower and it will start right up.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Feel beaten on this so far, should not take two afternoons to get it to start and idle correctly. Fired up instantly with the old system. Going to have to spend a day on it, probably rewire the few connections that were required and double check everything for the third time to maintain sanity. We’ll check to verify if the rotor is pointed directly at the #1 terminal at 30* BTDC. Digital timing light won’t work while just spinning the engine over without fuel, so going to pick up another one.

 

[andyf]

Yeah I've run into timing lights that wouldn't work with EFI before. Not sure what the deal is with that but I've seen it. I have an old Craftsman timing light and it works just fine with the Hyperspark so I guess I got lucky there.

Sounds like you're having some sort of issue but I don't know what it is. You do need to be super careful keeping all of the ignition wires away from the Sniper wires. The Sniper is sensitive to RF noise so everything needs to be separated. You also need resistance plugs and resistance wires or else it won't work.