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hooker headers

pjrenusr

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Just installed a set of Hooker headers on my B body LA block.. The first attempt to line up the bolts through the headers and into the heads was miserable.. I had to ream out the holes in the headers to allow enough wiggle room to line the headers and the exhaust ports up... The inside bolts at each end of the header did not have enough clearance to start the bolts so I needed to dimple these areas which by the way also damaged the ceramic coating finish . They need to add a 1/2 inch or so from the flanges and this would be an unnecessary step. Their instructions were spot on for installing and fit the engine bay nicely... I was tempted to try the TTI's but these were my Christmas present and I needed to stay within the budget I was allowed to spend. I even chatted with someone from Hooker at Sema and they didn't bring up any issues and said they were a good fit...
 
I feel your pain. Same problem on some big block headers. What I've found to work is the put those two bolts (inside bolt on each end cylinder) through the header flange first and then get them started before adding the other bolts. I also use bolts with 5/16" heads, which really helps. Summit, Jegs, etc. all carry those.
 
5/16" or 3/8" 12 point heads on the bolts or same thing nuts on studs
{3/8" course thread by 1" long bolts or 3/8" x 1-1/4" studs}
12 point heads either in a bolt or nut & stud from someone like from ARP Fasteners,
also will reduce the size of wrench needed, too help add some clearances

I've seen guys use smaller button head or allen heads successfully too...

I know some people who have cut the head side of the header flanges,
between the outside ports, so it's 3 separate pieces,
too be able to spread or narrow the tubes as necessary,

IMHO it'll make them more prone to warp-age though, if you over-tighten them too

But just opening up the holes by one size maybe 1/16" isn't a bad idea either,
just make sure your ports aren't getting out of line, should be fine, no harm no foul
 
Yup, after installing several sets of headers over the years you learn some tricks. I'm not too concerned with bolt fit as much as I am with the chassis fit. Also, straight edge the gasket surface to make sure it's flat. There's been many times where a large flat file had to be used to make sure there would be no leaks and this is on pretty much all the brands. The best looking/fitting header tho has been the TTI's but man, you're going to pay for those.
 
Are these the typical 1 size fits all headers?
I have given up on that style and went to the Hooker Super Comp headers that fit much much better. Tube size is 1-3/4. Do worry about a loss of torque. You'll never feel it and it would take a chassis Dyno or drag strip to show a difference.

I have them on my '79 Magnum w/a 360/727 & a '73 Cuda w/a 360/4spd. Both sides fit in easy. Use of small diameter head bolts from ARP make things a little bit easier on the install.
 
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