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Hot engine, Charger doesn't want to crank. What's going on here?

cruiser

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Hi Guys: This is a weird one. After I drive and fully warm up my very stock 69 Charger with a 440 auto, the engine cranks very slowly if I try to start it immediately after shutdown. Often the crank is too slow to start the engine. It acts like the battery is nearly dead, but it's not the battery since replacing it with a known good battery results in the same thing. Starter was professionally rebuilt and appears good. Brand new Van's Auto repro starter relay. Rest of starting/charging system is excellent. No carb problems. Then if I let it sit and cool for ten minutes, it starts normally as if there never was a problem. Pretty sure it's not a fuel system or vapor lock problem. I don't get it. Car cranks and starts great when first started after sitting for several days. It didn't use to do this. Any ideas out there? Thanks.
 
Is the engine a fresh rebuild?
 
Where is the battery located? Engine bay or trunk?
 
Sometimes when the starters get old and the wires swell under the heat (especially with headers), the windings short because the enamel is shot. They will do just what you descibe. Swap the starter and see what happens.
 
Headers.. stock exhaust? Starter is heat soaking..
I second @dadsbee ’s opinion. I had a Chevelle with headers that cooked the hell out of my starter and this is the exact same symptom. A mini starter could give you more torque and a larger air gap.
 
I second @dadsbee ’s opinion. I had a Chevelle with headers that cooked the hell out of my starter and this is the exact same symptom. A mini starter could give you more torque and a larger air gap.
When I first learned to hate headers, if my buddies 'Vette powered Monte Carlo died at the lights, we'd have to hop someones fence, grab their garden hose and cool off his starter to get going again!
 
Do your primary wires coming off the battery positive get hot when cranking?
 
I know you said you tried a different battery but that is what it sounds like to me. I had a battery that could set for weeks and start with no problem then after about 10 minutes run time and a shut down it would act like a dead battery. What it was, was the first plate on the positive end of the battery was shorted and would discharge that plate when running but would equalize with the other plates once shut down. I doubt that you could have two batteries doing the same thing but stranger things have happened. Before throwing more new parts at it I would try one more time with a good battery.
 
Yes could be timing, could be starter, cables,or battery. (you said you tried a different battery) It could be not enough piston to cylinder wall clearance. (built too tight and the pistons swell when hot)
 
Is the engine a fresh rebuild?
No, it was rebuilt about 25 years ago and has about 30K miles on the rebuild. The starter was rebuilt by one of those rebuilders who specialize in correct, original numbers matching parts rebuilds. The trouble seemed to start when I installed this new starter.
 
$60 NAPA mini starter remove plastic cover and use posts under it. You'll see, and just to safe check main power stud isn't touching block. That's why you use stud under plastic cover.
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No, it was rebuilt about 25 years ago and has about 30K miles on the rebuild. The starter was rebuilt by one of those rebuilders who specialize in correct, original numbers matching parts rebuilds. The trouble seemed to start when I installed this new starter.

Seems like the place to look first since this is when the problems started (pun intended lol).

Call the rebuilder of the starter and tell them the issue. Could be something internal. I'm guessing you are wanting to keep the car correct with original parts?
 
As others have mentioned, likely a hot starter. You may need to install a heat shield between the starter and the exhaust.
 
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