Hotchkis lower control arm bracket (sway bar)

JR_Charger

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After studying a few pics of the stock LCA bracket I found, and the Hotchkis bracket, it's obvious the Hotchkis bracket is supposed to butt up against (and be welded to) the lip (?) on top of the LCA -

08-strut-bar-bracket.jpg

09-strut-bar-bracket.jpg

10-strut-bar-bracket.jpg


That locates it vertically. As far as the horizontal goes, here's two factory LCAs showing quite a bit of variability. One has the bracket up against the pin, one has around a quarter inch of space between the pin and the bracket. On the whole it appears that the bracket is supposed to be centered in that space. I wonder if the bottom pic with the bracket up against the pin is a factory screw up?
 

steve340

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So long as it lines up pretty good you will be OK
Make sure you allow enough space for the length of the links.
 

JR_Charger

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As far as the vertical goes, I'm sure it has to be welded to that top lip. Otherwise the side-to-side shear forces might eventually break it off.
 

steve340

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Mounted properly there will be no shear forces. All the load will be vertical from the lower arm through the link too the chassis.
The term anti roll bar explains the function of these bars better than sway bar to me.
 

Kern Dog

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This control arm came from a 1972 Coronet.


XH LAC 1.jpg



Note that the stock sway bar bracket is right near the rivet.
 

JR_Charger

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Interesting - that's two that are near the rivet. Most of the pics I found show the bracket a little over from the rivet.
 

JR_Charger

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Not much clearance between the stock bracket and the strut bar, is there?

The shorter hotchkis bracket can actually go over the rivet a little, FWIW.
 

Grabbergreendream

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I purchased the same brackets & welded them on my 71 LCA's. I used a factory sway bar & mounted everything to the K to mock it up & get the position correct for the parts I was using. I can get you measurements in a day or 2 if I dont have to work a double shift tonight, if you'd like. I highly suggest mocking yours up before welding so you guarantee it will be correct. If they get welded incorrectly, you wont find it till assembly anyway & you'll kick yourself the entire time your re-doing them, IMO.
 

JR_Charger

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Interested in seeing what you come up with. I'm having a hard time believing a few mm to one side or another makes any difference. Also, I don't weld or have 220 in my garage.
 
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