1. 62440

    62440 Well-Known Member

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    If all goes well, I'll be getting my "MoneyPit" painted sometime this summer. I've decided to try and stem the money loss and get a "Maaco" paint job. I have the under trunk and under hood and door jams painted a custom color I'll call "Black Cherry Root Beer" For now l want to paint the car a "Hot Rod Black" Thinking maybe it will be a decent base coat for when the car gets a proper paint job one day. My memory is getting a little foggy but l seem to remember "Black Epoxy Primer" being a durable coating for a car that doesn't see much road time. What are your thoughts ? Appreciate your input.
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    • 68Moparmaniac

      68Moparmaniac Well-Known Member

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      Not recommended to leave it in epoxy, doesn't like the elements and UV's.
      Find some urethane that's not too expensive to cover the epoxy and get a MAACO job (or spray it yourself) if your looking to do a better paint job later down the road. That way you preserve the body work you've done and protect your metal from the elements.
      Check these guys out, The Coating Store. Reasonable prices on paint, may even find something you'll like for the "real paint job"
      Good luck :thumbsup:
       
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      • Darter6

        Darter6 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        When going to places like Maaco the best thing to do is prep the car yourself. Remove all trim and sand and smooth it the best you can. Many do very good spraying but the prep is poor.
        I'm diggin' your 62 !!
         
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        • jamie

          jamie Well-Known Member

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          SPI epoxy is about as durable of a finish as you will find. The black epoxy has UV protection letting it induce for 4 hours. Application is critical for max hold out. Faster reducer will effect the sheen and so will flash times. Great substrate if you want to ever finish the car or scuff and add more epoxy later.

          EDIT: Don't put anything cheap on it if you want it to last or if you want to paint over it later.
           
          Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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          • dvw

            dvw Well-Known Member

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            Sems Hot Rod Black. Great stuff. Durable. Doesnt chalk up. Its urethane. Bottom of my race done for 8 years. Still looks like new. Google it.
            Doug
             
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            • 5wndwcpe

              5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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              x2

              SPI makes a matte black topcoat as well

              https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/2201
               
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              • 68Moparmaniac

                68Moparmaniac Well-Known Member

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                Does UV Resistant Epoxy Exist?
                https://www.zeraus.com/articles-of-interests/88-does-uv-resistant-epoxy-exist
                When the epoxy coating is exposed to UV light, either directly or indirectly, it causes a noticeable and permanent damage as a result of photo degradation, including loss of gloss, ambering (i.e. a yellow discoloration), and for the coloured one chalking and breakdown of the coating may also result.
                 
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                • jamie

                  jamie Well-Known Member

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                  What epoxy coating?Barry's has UV inhibitors in the BLACK.It is VERY chemical resistant and is the BEST substrate for a top coat down the road,not some cheap paint.
                   
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                  • jamie

                    jamie Well-Known Member

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                    If you are planning on leaving it matte black,this is the way to go. I would still shoot epoxy before the paint though..... if you ever plan on painting it another color down the road I would leave it in epoxy. You don't want too many layers built up.
                     
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                    • 68Moparmaniac

                      68Moparmaniac Well-Known Member

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                      :popcorn2:
                      Whatever
                      You go ahead and paint it the way YOU want, it's probably good enough for your car....
                       
                      Last edited: Feb 15, 2020
                    • Chris_Hamilton

                      Chris_Hamilton New Member

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                      Lol....ignorance is bliss I guess. SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) makes the best epoxy on the market. It has enough UV inhibitors to use as a topcoat. This is a fact not conjecture. It has been used this way by many of the highest quality shops in North America. The 2015 Best of Show winner at the Pebble Beach Concours D'Elegance was done using all SPI products. Starting with epoxy as the base. Milton Robson's 69 GTO Ram AIr IV was done using all SPI products and sold for almost $700,000 at a RM Sotheby's auction in 2010. It(SPI Epoxy) was good enough for their cars.....just saying.

                      As mentioned above SPI also offers a high quality urethane single stage matte black. It is extremely flexible in that you can alter the amount of gloss to what you want by altering the amount of activator. From 4:1-8:1. It is durable and would work perfectly over epoxy as your base.

                      There is a reason all OEM's recommend/require (most collision shops ignore this though) epoxy on all bare metal and to go under all filler. It is that it has the best adhesion and corrosion protection of anything bar none.

                      Obviously you are free to use what you want. But the guy who recommended it to you does high quality work and was trying to steer you in the right direction. Your response came across as rather pissy which is what motivated me to reply to this.

                      (Full Disclaimer) I have no affiliation with SPI, just an end user who has been doing bodywork and paint for a living the last 27 years. You won't find a better company or customer service than Southern Polyurethanes. Factor in that their products are half of what PPG and the other Majors charge (you aren't paying for Charley Hutton's new spray booth when you purchase SPI) and superior (their universal clear is the best polyurethane clear on the market) and it's a real no brainer.

                      Edit: My response is worded as though I am responding to the OP when actually I am responding to the person I quoted. Sorry for the confusion.
                       
                      Last edited: Feb 14, 2020
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                      • 62440

                        62440 Well-Known Member

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                        Thanks for all the replies guy's. I'm heading out with "My Girl" for Valentine's Day lunch and then stopping by Macao to see what they offer. Back later tonight with what l find out.
                         
                      • 62440

                        62440 Well-Known Member

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                        I got there a bit late and everyone was gone except one of the painters l guess. He basically said it would be best to just finish it and forget the epoxy primer saying it wasn't intended for anything but primer. As long as l have the paint code, which I have, that they can match my color right there. Thier procedure is they wash the car to remove any grease or oils. Then they sand it and do any repairs needed, then spray on a sealer/primer and 2 or 3 coats of single stage followed by 2 coats of clear. He phoned the manager and he said it would be about $2250 starting and the painter said to expect it to cost more like $3000 just so there is no shock. He went on to say if it was a insurance job it would need to be a water based paint and cost more like $7 to 9000 thousand
                         
                      • Chris_Hamilton

                        Chris_Hamilton New Member

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                        I gotta ask if you are planning on a higher quality job down the road why not just epoxy it for the time being and drive it? Why spend the extra money for a MAACO paint job. Maaco's are the lowest of the low when it comes to bodyshops. Save the money, find a shop that that does quality restorations and repaints of older cars, not a volume place like Maaco that doesn't give a crap about your car. If you plan on getting a higher quality job down the road whoever does it is going to want to take the car down to metal. You are wasting your money. Have them sand it and use a quality epoxy primer and put what you save toward your quality job. He's right that a quality paint job would cost 7-9k minimum. But you are not going to get that for 3k. Lot more goes into a quality job than the actual application of the paint.
                         
                      • 62440

                        62440 Well-Known Member

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                        Nope, this is it. Like l said earlier, I'm tried of pouring money into a money pit. $9000 for a paint job and then what, freaking out in case it gets scratched. Not for me, I've seen too many cars sold at auction for a fraction of what was put into them. I just want a decent looking 20/20 car that l can have some fun in, thats it. I still need a new set of ceramic headers and carpets and I'm sure that won't be the end of it's needs. If someone else was paying I'd say sure, let's do it ,,, lol
                        Thanks for all the replies guys
                         
                      • jamie

                        jamie Well-Known Member

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                        [QUOTE For now l want to paint the car a "Hot Rod Black" Thinking maybe it will be a decent base coat for when the car gets a proper paint job one day. [/QUOTE]

                        I must have misunderstood your initial post? Sounds like you have a good direction with MAACO and I am sure it will make a great looking driver for many years.:thumbsup:
                         
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                        • 68 HEMI GTS

                          68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

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                          AA35A763-80C6-4FE9-AD6D-8BF98DDB4ACF.jpeg All 3 of my hoods are SEM hot rod black. Good stuff!
                           
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                          • 62440

                            62440 Well-Known Member

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                            Nice collection of Toy's, Shop included :thumbsup:
                             
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                            • '68 Coronet R/T

                              '68 Coronet R/T Well-Known Member

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                              I think there is some confusion as to what you were originally intending to do.

                              When covering bare metal I always use epoxy primer first. It has some flexibility as well great durability and rust inhibiting properties.
                              Started using SPI epoxy years ago after PPG DPLF was getting outrageously expensive. Never had a bad experience with it.

                              I also use Hot Rod Black but that is a top coat not a foundation coat like epoxy, so a lot of comparing apples to oranges going on here.

                              About 12 years ago I fabricated a cab for a John Deere loader. Primed it with 2 coats of SPI black epoxy and asked the owner to use the tractor for a few weeks and if he was happy with the cab, to bring it back for final painting. Well he never brought it back and has used it for over a decade for snow removal in Flagstaff, AZ.

                              The company and loader were sold a couple of years ago. The new owner sent me some pictures, wanting me to build another cab for his other loader. The epoxy has held up much better than I expected. Actually could just be sanded, recoated and painted.
                              IMG_20180201_155542729.jpg
                               
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                              • droptop

                                droptop Well-Known Member

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                                I agree. Painted the V21 hood on my Road Runner with SEM hot rod black 14 years ago. Still looks as good today as it did the first day it was painted.

                                54B096CE-5DD0-4124-AB36-625CD15A03D7.jpeg
                                 
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