How to remove and reattach exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold?

[Michael_]

This is yet another example why i hate love mopars:

What you see here is the connection from exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe and the gasket is shot which i verified with a smoke machine.

What you cant see is the nuts on the backside which ARE NOT welded to the manifold so they spin freely.

Problem is i can only reach the nut on 1 side with my hands.
Also one of the bolts is stuck. (I sprayed it down with WD40 and basically waiting for the stuff to do its job.)

Question is, how do i remove the exhaust pipe?
And later after replacing the gasket: How do i get it back on?

 

[eldubb440]

you may have to cut your way in, and reverse the process on the way out

 

[dadsbee]

Wrench on top bolt head, ratchet and extension(s) on nut.

 

[66 Sat]

There's always a way.
It may involve cutting a wrench in half that you can get on the backside, which will turn with the nut until it hits something solid and then locks against it, enabling you to get the nut off...or other ways. You have to just spend half an hour laying under there and thinking how to do it.
Lots of fun - my favorite part.

 

[Michael_]

Thanks for the advice.
I will give it some more additional thought too while the penetration oil is working...
Or maybe meanwhile someone comes up with a killer idea, who knows.

 

[MoparLeo]

And this is a Mopar specific problem ? Looks like old patch work. Cut it off and fix it your way...

 

[Michael_]

And this is a Mopar specific problem ? Looks like old patch work. Cut it off and fix it your way...

It does not really have to do with the patch work i think?
Or do you think they changed the shape of the pipe and there would normally be more working room?

 

[Ron H]

WD isn't the best to use you need PB blaster or good penetrant oil.

 

[Ron H]

It does not really have to do with the patch work i think?
Or do you think they changed the shape of the pipe and there would normally be more working room?

Looking at the welds...sure looks like some patching...

 

[Michael_]

Looking at the welds...sure looks like some patching...

But do you think this has to do with me having trouble reaching the nut?
Otherwise that's not really relevant.

Does anyone have a picture how this area normally looks like on a 440hp car? Maybe @dadsbee ?
If this exhaust is far away from stock and stock would give me good access i might just replace it.

My mufflers are also shot. Already got new ones from ecs but looks like they're currently not selling any exhaust parts?

 

[dadsbee]

I'll get you a shot tomorrow as the Bee is on the 4 post lift, but I can tell you that you currently have better access than I do... as I have a 4 speed and the torque shaft is right in the way of getting those nuts. Your exhaust has been patched, but it doesn't look much different shape wise than stock. Here's a head pipe...

Headpipes in the jig ECS made by using my OE head pipes..

 

[Dave P]

Soak it all with Kroil or PB Blaster for a few days.
Find every wrench, socket, extensions, universals and ratchets in your entire garage that are the correct
size for the hardware.
Circle the car three times counterclockwise while cursing loudly.
Find plenty of light and drag all the crap under the car trying every possible combination till
something fits.
If nothing fits crawl back out taking all the useless crap with you.....swear loudly...maybe throw something
not to fragile, and drink a beer.
Get the plasma cutter out, crawl back under the bitch and cut the bastards off!
Dave

 

[hunt2elk]

You just need a couple more tools in your box. Won't be that bad of a job with the proper tools.

 

[mopar jack]

Definitely takes an assortment of wrenches to back up the top bolt and various sockets, extensions and universals for the bottom. When you reinstall, make sure to use some hi temp anti-seize on the bolt and a retainer clip on the top.https://www.accurateltd.com/Exhaust-Lock-Clips_p_296.html

 

[Ron H]

Soak it all with Kroil or PB Blaster for a few days.
Find every wrench, socket, extensions, universals and ratchets in your entire garage that are the correct
size for the hardware.
Circle the car three times counterclockwise while cursing loudly.
Find plenty of light and drag all the crap under the car trying every possible combination till
something fits.
If nothing fits crawl back out taking all the useless crap with you.....swear loudly...maybe throw something
not to fragile, and drink a beer.
Get the plasma cutter out, crawl back under the bitch and cut the bastards off!
Dave

LOL, you sound like a guy who's been through this enough times...I have more than I care to count too: I do the cussing, drinking beer, hunting down all the tools I got; but never thought about going around it counter clock wise...I was going around clockwise...

 

[Dave P]

LOL, you sound like a guy who's been through this enough times...I have more than I care to count too: I do the cussing, drinking beer, hunting down all the tools I got; but never thought about going around it counter clock wise...I was going around clockwise...

The counterclockwise is important, remember, you're trying to loosen
the POS.
Dave

 

[dadsbee]

Michael, some shots as promised. Not sure why you can't get your hand/arm up in there to hold a wrench on top... but that said depending how long yours has been together you may need a torch to heat up the nuts to help them let go.

 

[Michael_]

Not sure why you can't get your hand/arm up in there to hold a wrench on top...

I have no idea why you are able to get your hands in there and both me and my dad are not. There is just no way.
I can only guess its because manual vs. automatic transmission or maybe the shape of the pipe is a bit different. I dont really know.

But my dad built a special tool (see pictures) so we managed to get it off, removed the old gasket, got the new one in and finally got it back together.
It still was very hard to do and my dad got very mad during the process. At the end he was dizzy and needed a break!

But (mainly thanks to him) we got it sealed again so the exhaust leak is gone!

Edit:

The WD40 worked great for loosing the bolt. We sprayed for 2 days prior to removal.

So if everything goes as planned i will be taking the charger for the first somewhat bigger trip this weekend.

 

[Michael_]

Also does somebody know if the nuts are welded to the manifold from the factory?
Because there are welding points on our nuts but they did come loose.

If not is there a special tool from chrysler for this job?

 

[dadsbee]

No the bolts and/or nuts are not welded to the manifold or the head pipe. What I show in my pictures is OE correct..