How to tell if genuine N96 hood?

[koosh]

Is there a way to tell if a hood is genuine mopar N96 hood, or aftermarket?
(69 RR)......

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Well, at least in '69, ALL hoods (other than fiberglass lift-off six pack hoods) are "N96". What I mean is that the "standard" hood is the same as the "air grabber" hood. You just need to have all the associated parts & you can turn a "standard" hood into an "air grabber" hood.

This applies to Plymouths. I really don't know about the '69 Dodges first hand.

 

[koosh]

Ok.....was going to sell, and potential buyer wanted to know if it was N96, I didn't know myself......it does have a lot of " extra holes" in the underside, but is aftermarket vs mopar affect pricing? I have no clue which mine is.....

 

[dadsbee]

What on earth is wrong with setting a hood on it's sides...

 

[threewood]

It's better if you sit the hood on the sides otherwise the rear corners get crunched and messed up. At least it's on grass

 

[koosh]

I think setting on its sides, would be appropriate on a hard surface, not grass.....lol

 

[dadsbee]

Your hood, damage it how ever you like.

 

[koosh]

No plans to damage it.....just sell....

 

[koosh]

Are there part numbers suppose to be on factory hoods?

 

[dadsbee]

Saw a stamping on the underside of mine (N96 Bee hood) right at the back center, that is punched so bad I can't read it. See no other numbers.

On the hood "storage" .. all I'm trying to caution you and every other tom dick and harry at body shops is that you don't wanna pay good money for a hood, let alone a restoration and paint job and then have a hood fit that looks like this mess on my SuperBird!

 

[koosh]

Saw a stamping on the underside of mine (N96 Bee hood) right at the back center, that is punched so bad I can't read it. See no other numbers.

On the hood "storage" .. all I'm trying to caution you and every other tom dick and harry at body shops is that you don't wanna pay good money for a hood, let alone a restoration and paint job and then have a hood fit that looks like this mess on my SuperBird!

View attachment 688864 View attachment 688865

I'm in total agreement!

 

[dadsbee]

When I go back out to the shop I'll check the hood sides, etc for part numbers.

 

[koosh]

When I go back out to the shop I'll check the hood sides, etc for part numbers.

Thanks

 

[dadsbee]

Number stamped on the drivers front corner and my Fresh Air hood (Bee/RT/Cornonet) has a specific depression in the under webs to clear the actuator arm/cables on the passenger side. I don't have a normal hood to compare it to, so they may all be made this way.. I don't know.

 

[koosh]

Number stamped on the drivers front corner and my Fresh Air hood (Bee/RT/Cornonet) has a specific depression in the under webs to clear the actuator arm/cables on the passenger side. I don't have a normal hood to compare it to, so they may all be made this way.. I don't know.
Got it, thanks
View attachment 688950 View attachment 688951 View attachment 688952 View attachment 688953

 

[69bfan]

No part numbers stamped into the metal for hoods or any of the sheet metal for that matter. Various panels will have a vendor stamping that is some type of internal dating and tracking of the components. Over the counter pieces will either be identified with a ink stamping for the part number or a paper tag attached with a wire twist tie.

 

[6pktgo]

Not sure if this applies here or will help, but here goes, I had a 70 RR w/N96 hood 30 years ago & wanted that setup on my 70 Charger. Long story short, I bought a 70 RR N96 hood for all the extra bracing (especially around the triangular openings, look closely at the pics) & converted what I could to a 70 Charger hood. Those 70 RR hoods ARE definitely different, from N96 to a non air grabber. I didn't use the two rear triangular opening braces , they were full of holes.