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Hydraulic roller cam break in oil.

1969CoronetR/T

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I just got my R/T back last week from the machine shop. I had the engine stroked from a 440 to 500 cid with a hydraulic roller cam shaft. Ported Indy EZ-1 heads and port matched intake with other modifications. The shop put Brad Penn break in oil in it and have a few questions. I prefer Royal Purple as I put it in all my vehicles and maybe pay for all the movie spots I see them in...but has anyone used Brad Penn break in oil before? How would you rate Royal Purple, Amsoil, Joe Gibbs Driven, Redline and Brad Penn for protection on hydraulic roller cam break in?
 
What needs to be broke in on a roller cam? Cam break in is for flat tappet cams......and you really don't need a break in oil for anything else. If you have moly rings, they break in on their own if the cylinder finish is correct for them. Other than that, well, there's not much else.
 
Brad Penn gets a lot of recommendations and seems to have a solid reputation. If it's what the shop used I wouldn't be concerned about it as I'm sure they turn out a fair bit of motors.

I run Rotella as recommended by my builder with a little bit of zinc additive to overcome what may be washed out with the detergents.

It's hard to give them a "rating" unless there is someone here that builds countless engines and has tried them all and broken the motor back down again. Stick to a quality reputable brand and I'm sure you're safe
 
All of those oils are great products.Really not any break in with roller cams more for start up and heat cycles.Flat tappet cams need a 20 minute 2000 RPM break in due to metal to metal heat cycling to harden the lobe surface on the camshaft. Roller camshafts don't require break in like that just doing a regular heat cycle, tune and testing then change the oil to what you prefer.
I use Royal Purple and the commercials don't lie. I had problem with head gasket and turned my oil into mayonnaise had to take the motor apart but the royal purple kept it form destroying the engine.I also had some problems with my fuel system and my secondary fuel bowl got stuck open while I was adjusting the pressure regulator and filled the oil with gas dropped oil pressure to 0. I changed the oil cut the filter to check for metal all was good.Two weeks later I had the car on dyno and made 841 HP. The Royal Purple does work.

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I run Amsoil in 450 and 250.Another great oil. We raced motocross for a few years using the Amsoil. Are bike only required regular maintenance using there products.
 
He wants me to come back in about 500 miles to switch out the break in oil to a high zinc formula. I am not sure why he choose a break in oil, maybe to be safe. I have a case of Royal Purple 10w40 that I will put in soon.
 
High zinc oils are for protection with metal to metal parts like flat tappet cams. Pistons don't need it because of the dissimilar metals....aluminum and cast iron. Those create a good mating of materials. Kinda like brass/bronze and steel or aluminum and steel. I would like to know his reasoning for the high zinc oil with a roller set up but I do like to have a minimum of zinc additive in my oil however, just don't need to pay for the high content when you don't need it.
 
The break-in oil won't hurt anything,
it's not necessary really I this case not for roller lifters
{depends on rockers, if they aren't roller tip or roller truniun, might help some etc.}
{zinc should be used with a flat tappet, {mushroom lifters remember them} solid or hydraulic camshaft & lifters}
especially not necessary on a full roller set-up either,
some parts like the push-rods still have a metal to metal contact @ rockers & lifters
also timing chain & gears, even rings etc., all need heat cycles to harden,
albeit it might be overthinking, why they recommend it,
some engine builder still recommend high zinc phosphorus based oils
even after break in & even with rollers...

I remember a guy would put a some caustic liquid soap detergent in his cylinders & oil
I can't remember the brand now, he was adamant about always doing it,
to a new build, but he'd run it for a time on the trailer, while towing even sometimes,
before going to the races...
Remember him saying it broke in the moly rings way faster,
"allegedly" so it wouldn't burn as much oil, not sure if it was true,
his builds were always nice, high dollar engines too, spinning them too the moon...
Old Trans Am racer guy Wes from Concord Ca.
{can't remember his last name, he was a buddy of my step father Bob/Pontiac guys}
& he never had any major engine failures racing...

OK back on topic

for quicker break in maybe ?

some won't ever recommend synthetics either

old habits & old-school engine builders

some guys still run 70 wt or diesel oils too

it might just be old habits, old practices & they like a certain oils/brands
& don't veer from what they actually know has worked in the past

maybe they are in the camp better to be safe than sorry

like I said it won't hurt anything
 
I am stopping at his shop this weekend to get the dyno sheet and have to ask him about the break-in oil. I thought it was weird as I have a roller and not a flat tappet that the engine was before he rebuilt it. I also bought a flat tappet and lifters before I went to him as I was originally going that route, but he convinced me to go with the roller. So I put the tappet on eBay (no luck here) and I wonder if he is getting confused with the build..
 
Hi Zinc oils are good corrosion fighters for cylinder walls and are necessary for that. break in for rings is a nice added benefit for 10 minutes then its gone.
 
I may run the break-in oil for another week and then switch out to Royal Purple 10w40.
 
break in oil on new roller engine, after that, whatever you prefer. my 69 Roadrunner 383 has a roller cam. after the first oil change, went to conventional. real simple.
 
I may run the break-in oil for another week and then switch out to Royal Purple 10w40.

i too use the Royal Purple HPS 10-40 and like the results. MY engine builder used Brad Penn in his race car but told me his thinking about going to Royal Purple based on what he has read and seen in similar situation described above.
 
U have been using Royal Purple for the last four years in my Coronets. I put it in my SRT as soon as I drove it home from the dealership.
 
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