I just want to be like this guy YouTube

[rick moreno]

Hey, what's up guys!
First off I'd like to thank everyone for this fantastic website and the wealth of knowledge available here. Something of which I am humbly in search of once again. So here goes, my many, muchos "thank yous" in advance...69 RR. 440 freshly rebuilt. MP cam, don't catch me lyin' but I'm pretty sure the duration is 50 possibly 60 with something like 484, 494 lift. MP Maxwedge aluminum heads, MP M1 high rise intake, comp around 9.5 to 1/10:1, eagle H-beam rods, forged Eagle pistons, A833 4spd, 3.23 gears, MP dizzy, dialed in at 14 initial, 32 total, Autolite 85 plugs, open Hooker Comp headers, and my suspected culprit, Eddy 1406 which I am at my witts end with this thing and ready to throw the pos edlebrock in the garbage where it belongs. At least that's the feeling I get when after setting the float height for the 10th time, and this engine is still popping down the road. Carbs have never been a strong point of mine. I always found it cheaper and easier to simply remove it and take it to have it rebuilt then slap it back on and good to go. That's was when I had a good carb man. Something that I'm starting to think only comes around once in a lifetime. Kinda like that alignment shop guy too. Anyway! This of course was pre-covid when a carb rebuild also cost 65 bucks. I had this 1406 rebuilt last summer and **** me if I didn't pay 200 dollars for it. I know, I know, chill out. I'm still kicking myself over that one. Anyway, moving on gents, I'll get to the point. All seems fine except for fuel delivery. That's what it's got to be. Ignition is working good, all cylinders are firing and in the correct order. Problem was and is that the spark plugs keep fouling out with fuel. I removed the bell and checked floats. Adjusted, put it back together, ran like ****. Took it apart, adjusted the floats again, put back together ran so so. Took it apart again, I'm sure you can tell where I'm going with this. Thing is that all the while, it's always had this little, "pop" coming from the exhaust. It's not consistent and it's not loud, it's this little, "pop"..."pop-pop"........."pop".."pop"........."pop". I know you guys know what I'm talking about here. Is this 600 cfm too small? I really don't feel like adjusting the floats again, but I will. Ordered the tune kit for it with the springs and metering rods. Btw, forgot to mention, vac, at idle, the best I can get it to pull, is around 11 maybe 12 inches but that's at 11 to 1200 rpm at idle. At which point even the ported side is pulling a little vac. Shouldn't that be at zero? What about this intake I ordered by mistake? Didn't know it was a high rise until it got here, now I cant put my hood on, but I'll deal with that later, I thought to myself. If I drop the idle down to 800 I don't and won't have any vacumm and that's not helping the plugs out at all. It won't diesel when I shut it off, and don't have any leaks around manifold or carb base. This is driving me nuts! I'm running out of cash and although I will eventually order a Holley 750 or 800 DP, I dont see why a 600 won't, in its perspective rpm range, run correctly. Is it the open headers? Back pressure is a very debatable issue, but I don't think pipes and mufflers will will stop my plugs from fouling? Headers are sealed up good. No signs of exhaust leak around around the ports. Heads are ported also btw. Help me out here. Enlighten me. Please! I just want to go for a cruise with open headers like this guy on YouTube!
Lastly, another thing I forgot to mention, fuel pump is mechanical and fuel pressure is at 5. New tank, new lines, new filter. All of which i routed as far away from heat as I could. Thanks guys

 

[beanhead]

Start with timing. Pops from the exhaust "typically" tell me the timing is too late, or it's going lean when the problem happens...try setting the initial at 20° as a test but drive it easy as the total adavance will now likely be too high. A re-curving of the distributor will be necessary. No change? Put the timing back where you had it and work on fueling. These are just general ideas to hopefully get you started...
And yeah, the 600 is too small...but that's for arguing another day because it should still be able to work okay without hiccups, just not the best performance choice for a 440-cube engine. And don't throw that Edelbrock carb 'in the trash'.... they'll work good just like the Holleys/variants but they all MUST be tuned thoroughly....good luck!

 

[Don Frelier]

Please explain what you mean by having to keep adjusting the floats?
You set them and drive it they don't change?

If you are running a Mopar box I would suggest trying another unit.
I fought with one for a whole summer that I'd run for 10 years or more above 3,500 rpm it would break up.

The open headers should not be an issue.
I'm also not a fan of Autolite plugs.

 

[rick moreno]

Please explain what you mean by having to keep adjusting the floats?
You set them and drive it they don't change?

If you are running a Mopar box I would suggest trying another unit.
I fought with one for a whole summer that I'd run for 10 years or more above 3,500 rpm it would break up.

The open headers should not be an issue.
I'm also

 

[rick moreno]

Wow, hey, thanks guys. I appreciate the suggestions. Here's an update..earlier, after I set the float level again, this time I believe I've got it spot on. I'll explain...set the float level. Went to go get dog food from the local petsmart. It's about 4 or 5 miles away. Not far. Quick drive on the freeway. Which is what I did. She popped all the way there, just like I had said in my illustrative example of the "pop". Anyway, got there, shut er down, went in, and before I drove back, I thought to myself maybe I should disconnect the vac advance. So I did. Jumped back on the freeway and I'll be dipped if the popping wasn't gone. Not completely, but considerably less. Way less. That's all I've done. I believe beanhead my have nailed it. Previous to this bout with the Eddy, I went 12 rounds with the timing. Thought I had it. Could be wrong. What's that tell us though? Disconnecting the VA and way less popping. I've felt that the dizzy needed to be curved. Matter of fact, I know it. But before i/we jump into that... Serious question, and yes, I can be that much of a dumbass. My apologies. It's just that I've worked really, really hard on this car. As many, if not all of you already know, and when it comes down to my Mopar, well. I've found myself second guessing just about anything I go to do. Any other car, sure, no prob. Do this, do that, let me hear it and I'll tell you what's wrong with it. That doesn't seem to apply to my first build. So, for real, what's that mean? Disconnected VA and running better? Am I too advanced? Leave the VA disconnected? I'm a bit leary of inserting a 3/32nds hex key (i think thats right size) into the advance and going to town, ultimately messing something up

 

[Don Frelier]

It sounds more like a reluctor/rotor phasing problem. Hard to explain but the pickup coil pulse is too far away from when the rotor is near the plug wire tower. Rick Ehrenberg used to sell a reluctor with different roll pin locations.

Probably easier to just try a different distributor.

 

[rick moreno]

It sounds more like a reluctor/rotor phasing problem. Hard to explain but the pickup coil pulse is too far away from when the rotor is near the plug wire tower. Rick Ehrenberg used to sell a reluctor with different roll pin locations.

Probably easier to just try a different distributor.

Yes sir, I know as to what you are referring to, but I haven't messed with distributors hands on in that manner. Always took mine in as a core and picked up a new one from the local autoparts store (mainly Orielys and Napa). It's a new distributor. Recently ordered from Mancini. Couldn't locate where it was stamped for how much advance it gives though. Either way, regardless of my initial and/or total, it's always remained within range. 14 to 16 initial, even up to 20 as suggested. Total not to exceed 36 or 38. With or without VA connected. I've tried every combo and it's always the same thing. Pop, pop, pop when cruising with rpms anywhere from a steady 2800 to 3200. There's that dag gone pop. I really appreciate the advice and I hope I'm not being pushy, but, I guess what my main question here is, what's in the carb that would regulate or cause, or could* cause, possibly is causing this pop? And IF theres is what should look at? Or possibly test? Fuel pressure gauge so I can see what im getting while driving perhaps? Idk. The reason I messed with the floats so many times is because it would get better. Then, if I screwed up the level it would really pop and run like crap. So I kept messing with them until I finally got it to that sweet spot where it would run its best. Jets perhaps? Needles? Idk, but that's that's pretty much what I've narrowed it down to. The carb. Respectively speaking, that's why I posted. I would be lying if I said I'm not starting get a little disillusioned about this whole thing.. I'm sure we've all been there. Ands it always seems to turn out to be something simple. For me at least lol

 

[440beep]

When you disconnected the vacuum advance, did you plug the port on the carb where you disconnected the vacuum line? if not, now there's a vacuum leak at the carb, but at least the extra timing was removed.

Hopefully the better minds here will know: if vacuum source was not covered, did additional air cure the popping? Or, did removing the extra timing help? Or both helped?

 

[padam]

Probably best to do compression test and a vacuum test.

 

[Griff]

What kind of Alternator (year and single or dual feed) and what kind of voltage regulator?

Mr. Dadsbee solved my problem a few weeks ago. Mine was more of a banging at idle in my 440 Roadrunner. I had a 1969 single wire alternator and a post 70' voltage regulator. They weren't talking well at idle. I changed to the newer PowerMaster single wire alternator (w/internal regulator) and pulled the one off the fire wall and bingo! No more banging out exhaust.

I know this is an older post, so maybe you have solved your problem. I have the exact year and combo you have