i need help with go fast parts what is ok for me to use ?

[Bb70charger500]

Hey guys I'm not much of a eng guy I can rebuild them o.e.m. but changing stuff with performance parts I get a little iffy , I found some stuff for sale and wanted to know if it will work in my motor
Edelbrock 7177 Performer RPM Cam & Lifter kit. Dur 308/318, Lift 488 / 1.510 MOPAR small block

Edelbrock 5777 Sure Seat Valve Springs

Edelbrock 7176 Performer RPM Intake manifold Dual Plane Square Bore

Now for a little info it's a 72 340 that's had some work done (but not to shure of what)
I bought the intake because it has the stock one on it still I'll be running a 750 edelbrock carb , the car has roller rockers 1.5 (this is where I'm not shure ) and a cam (don't know the size ) its had head work done bigger valves (to duplicate 1970 340)The bottom end is all forged. So will this cam and lifters work in the motor with the roller rockers? And are the springs needed ? I think I have a list of eng internals somewhere I can go over it tomorrow,
Also how big is the cam is it going to be a pain in the *** ? Or ok for a driver ? The car is a 4 speed also and if needed the rear is 8 3/4 with a 3.55 shure grip .
Sorry If this is basic stuff (I'm a big truck mechanic) and don't really play with go fast stuff .
Thanks for any and all help
And if more info is needed please let me know

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Also will I need diff push rods if they do work?

 

[dieseldazzle]

Thats alot of cam for a stock headed 340 with a dual plane intake in your street car. You could probably get away with it because you have a 4 speed car but Id look for a different cam. I think you seen the ad for all the stuff advertized by a local guy on craigslist. It was a package deal if I remember. That being said Id sell it on ebay and find a tamer cam.

As far as valve springs Im sure those springs at X.XX installed height will suppport the open and closed pressures of your cam if they are sold by edelbrock as the springs for that camshaft but you need to set them up correctly. Even places like alexparts and hughes that will sell you a "drop in" kit you still have to measure your installed height and clearances.

What I would do if I were you is run a cam with more along the lines of 218-220 degrees of duration at 50, get the recommend seat and open pressures and then give alex at alexparts or anyone that sells similar parts and go from there.

I know for a small deposit alex sends you a set of keepers, a retainer and you can measure your installed heights. You then ship it back and he has tons of springs and even offset retainers etc.

He will need you to take one intake and exhaust spring off and see what kind of keepers you use (valve stem has either one two or three grooves on it)

There is also inside and outside diameters to consider and retainer to seal and guide boss measurements.

But when done right having your valve train setup correctly is night and day on a motor

Im local I can help you out ive set up many many many sets of heads and such.

 

[snakeoil24]

Big duration am will be tuff on street. if you really want to get a comparison call Crane or Comp and give them your specs Weight, auto or manual carb size etc they will give you a good comparison.

 

[Cranky]

Duration at .050 inch Lift: 234 int./244 exh....is that really so bad?

 

[dieseldazzle]

Duration at .050 inch Lift: 234 int./244 exh....is that really so bad?

Maybe not soo bad with the 4 speed and 3.55 gear but I think he can do way better with a stock headed 340 and dual plane intake.

Never said it wont work but why not have a nicer mannered ride especially in a heavier car.

 

[66Satellite47]

I'd stay away from the Ede valve train stuff. It's not really their specialty as far as I can tell. I just replaced the valve springs that came on my Performer RPM heads, not impressed. I'm with Cranky on the cam size, but I'm not a small block guy. Check with Comp & Crane & some engine builders that have good running small block Mopar's around. Guys that build small block Chevies don't usually know what a SB Mopar wants.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Thanks for the info so far here's what the paper work says .
.30 over
Trw forged flat top pistons 10.5 -1 comp
1971 head gasket that makes comp 10.25 -1
Org forged crank was balanced
7qt oil pan by" ed hamburgers"
2.02 intake valves
Mildly ported and polished heads
Bronzewalled guides,
Hardend exhaust seals
And a 3 angle valve job
Crane roller rockers 1.5 ratio
Comp cam magnum series
280-480( no more info on this cam)
Hooker super comp headers
So now that I'm looking sounds like it should be left alone what do you guys think ?

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

Current set-up sounds OK, on paper, I'd be happy with it. Does it run well, are you happy with it?

 

[Propwash]

If you want to make some real good power, ditch the iron 340 heads. They're opened chamber and have some serious bends around head bolts before the valves. Real constrictive. The only advantage I'll give them over a Plain Jane 318 head is the bigger valves. That includes the J's and X's. You would have to find a set of 340 Six pack heads with the offset rockers/pushrod holes to get any better in the porting arena. They were designed a bit differently internally to allow for more porting. Or should I say bending the rules in T/A racing. There are a couple later model 360 heads that will make power much easier on that 340. Either that or step it up to a magnum small block head. I'm building a 340 right now for my wifes Dart. I found a set of the coveted "X" heads, brought it to the fella that does the valve jobs for me and told him the power I want. He just shook his head. "Buy aftermarket aluminum"....So I did. Stunning difference in volume. Now that they're ported, comparing the two is almost a joke. I have the Big Block eddy heads on my 512 as well. They did have a visibly noticeable advantage over their cast iron counterparts off the bat, but nowhere near as much as the small block comparison. Also, bumping down your chamber size to increase compression, using a closed chamber A/L head, using a piston with a lower compression height and zero decking the block to utilize quench will really wake your motor up.

As far as your cam, that is a ton of duration, without any kind of spectacular lift. To me that would have you running like an old Farmall tractor. Choppy/Floppy but not making a ton of power. I'd listen to these fella's on the Eddy hardware as well. Decent quality, but not any kind of big step up from factory. Depending where you go with your cam, if the need for upgrade is warranted, Comp, Hughes, or even Howard's would be a good route to go. Be sure to match the seat pressure's to the cam shaft. Using a run of the mill/all bases covered generic spring, you'll end up with valve train hardware that will fall on it's face and/or wear out your components far sooner than need be.

Depending on your cam choice, IMO I'd also try to shoot for a good dual plane intake, like an Air Gap. Small block's are not known for big torque. Using a dual plane will gather you a bit more torque and move your torque peak RPM a little lower down in RPM's. With a heavy B-Body, you're going to want that.

 

[idrivemopar]

Just for comparison sake, I have a stock 340, and I am running a Crane cam with 272/284 durations and 454/480 lift. I have 1.95/1.50 valves with hypereutectic pistons. I have 9.5 to 1 compression, and am running the stock heads and intake, and with 3.55 rear and 727 auto, it gets up and goes pretty good.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Well the motor runs good very loopy but didn't have the 4 speed behind it yet ,haven't really got it out and got on it didn't trust the brakes since it was sitting
Any input on what an ideal cam size would be and brand , I'm probably not going to bother with the heads I was told the way it sits it dinoed a little bit under 430 hp
I'm thinking of swapping the cam out since I'm doing the 4 speed swap , so I'll stay away form the eld stuff , I bought the intake and have the carb already , so maybe some cam input that will be safe withe the roller rockers and other current parts not wanting to spend a ton on the eng beings it's already purity much done

thanks for the info so far guys

 

[Meep-Meep]

If in fact your compression is about 10:1 and that cam is what it is (280 duration / .480" lift) I'd leave it. I built a 340 for a Dart back in the 80's with a hemi grind cam, pocket ported 73 heads with the 2.02" valves, DP4B intake with Holley 600 DP. Ran high 13's through the mufflers and 78 series tires. Heavy car so you won't do that well but it will still get you in trouble if you're looking for it.

 

[66Satellite47]

Bb I just looked at the Edelbrock site, it says the 7177 is 234I / 244E @.050 .488I / .510E lift, lobe separation 112. That sort of number range doesn't sound too bad, but I'd still look at the other brands.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Thanks guys I'll pass on the rest of the eld parts the guy has . And run it the way it is and see how it behaves with the 4 speed behind it then go from there ,it's nothing but a thing to swap heads and cam later ,that and I'll have more cash to get the car painted witch is always a good thing .
So thanks for your help .
I do have one more ? Will the stock fuel pump give me problems with the current setup? Someone made off with the big one and stuck a stock one on it just to get it running agen it felt very starved when I drove it .
Thanks agen

 

[dvw]

I think the [email protected]"duration for you combo is too big. You have a heavy car. The Eddy Performer RPM is the best manifold you could use. That being said the stock intake is a pretty decent piece. Stock heads with some work aren't that bad either. The aluminum heads and intake will take off some weight and flow better. I built a 360 for my wife's 4 speed Challenger. Factory heads ported w/2.02, [email protected]" cam, 9-1, LD340 intake (very similar to the rpm intake), headers, 2.5 full exhaust, 650 Holley. With 3.55 gear it's been 12.90. With 4.30 gear it's been 12.50@110, 3750lbs. Blows the tires away on a 1st gear roll (275 60 BFG) to mid way through 3rd gear. Plenty of torque.

Doug

 

[dieseldazzle]

I think the [email protected]"duration for you combo is too big. You have a heavy car. The Eddy Performer RPM is the best manifold you could use. That being said the stock intake is a pretty decent piece. Stock heads with some work aren't that bad either. The aluminum heads and intake will take off some weight and flow better. I built a 360 for my wife's 4 speed Challenger. Factory heads ported w/2.02, [email protected]" cam, 9-1, LD340 intake (very similar to the rpm intake), headers, 2.5 full exhaust, 650 Holley. With 3.55 gear it's been 12.90. With 4.30 gear it's been 12.50@110, 3750lbs. Blows the tires away on a 1st gear roll (275 60 BFG) to mid way through 3rd gear. Plenty of torque.

Doug

Yup too big for your car and combo

 

[Bb70charger500]

Not to sound stupid but isn't the one in the motor bigger ? You guys are saying [email protected]"duration is to big.
But the one in the car is
280-480 this would be bigger wouldn't it ?

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Hell I miss my motor buddy he was real good with the go fast parts at least I got you guys ,at least I'm learning something new

 

[dieseldazzle]

Not to sound stupid but isn't the one in the motor bigger ? You guys are saying [email protected]"duration is to big.
But the one in the car is
280-480 this would be bigger wouldn't it ?

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Hell I miss my motor buddy he was real good with the go fast parts at least I got you guys ,at least I'm learning something new

You are talking advertised duration and we are talking duration at 50 big difference.

Also the advertised duration on that eddie cam you posted is like 300 or 308 degrees..... with that low lift and over 230 at 50 i just think you can choose a better cam.

But to be honest if the existing motor dynod at 430hp id leave it the hell alone thats tremendous power out of stock style iron headed motor.

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Also I touched on it but I dont see it really driven home with you. Im local and would help you out but there is more to installing springs then just buying a set of springs matched to your cam. There are so many variables like id, od and now that you say your heads have work on them they installed heights could change.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Ok well like I said I'll stick it together and see how it acts firsts,I can always go back in it later once its together I'll get it dinoed and see how accurate the original owners was with the h.p. he said it was dinoed but didn't have the sheet .so I guess it will be a surprise.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Keep in mind the OP's cam is on a 112 LSA. I bet it will do well as is and my advice is to leave it but get it tuned properly using an O2 sensor or better yet, a chassis dyno. Timing curve will make or break any combo so get that right.