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Ignition Fusible Link Blowing after Lean Burn Conversion

Wordoow

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Location
Oneonta, NY
Wall of Text Forewarning, but short of the long is Ignition Switch Red Fusible link keeps burning if key is left on post GM HEI conversion to delete the lean burn

Car is a 1979 Dodge Magnum with the 318. Very original car and appears to have 64k original miles but who knows.

Starting to bang my head on the wall with this issue that has arisen after removing the Lean Burn System and swapping to the HEI setup following this forum post: Lean burn to old style ign swap?

Crappy Birds-eye photo of the swap:
20230429_182136.jpg

Minus carb tuning issues everything was going decent. After swapping a leaking power valve I went to start the car and obviously it died due to no fuel in the bowls yet. L had left the key on to go open the garage door and "poof" fusible link wire blows that protects the Ignition Switch (Red) shown below:

Fusible Links.jpg

Swapped in a dorman fusible link I had on hand randomly and got back to tuning only for the HEI module to die after 30ish minutes of runtime so I bought another one. That night while testing the previous rich condition the car ran out of fuel and with the key on, but not running, the fusible link started to melt and smoke at the ends.

Details of swap:
Took the Dark Blue wire that fed the left side of the ballast resistor and ran that to positive side of coil. Brown wire from right side of resistor to coil is no longer in use and resistor is now out of the car shown below
12v Feed.jpg
Still using an OEM canister filled coil and 7mm wires
Weird thing to note as we thought it would be the same but positive side of the coil is reading battery voltage which is ~14.3 but negative side is ~17. I'm not a big electrical person so maybe this is normal/means nothing

My main question is if anyone has done this swap before and had a similar issue? I tried using an Ohmmeter to test the voltage regulator based on a video I found but my numbers were no where close to the ones in that video. I haven't completely ruled out that the issue came from this swap as the car has been in the garage all winter but was fine the few times I've had to take it out in a pinch and drive it with the lean burn controls still hooked up.
 
Still running an AMP meter? I did the GM conversion 73 Duster not lean burn. I tied The ign 1&2 together to get power to the coil in crank & run. Pretty much every thing gets powered up by the fusible link. How many amps are getting pulled through that link?
 
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