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Ignition or fuel issue

RobsRR

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My 383 will run great until it gets hot idling. Say 190 to 200 degree's that is with ac on. Then runs erratic, afr goes way rich and will stall. Holley 3310 with phenolic spacer and fuel line wrapped from pump forward. Not sure if it is fuel or spark problem. I don't have a return line? Any help welcome. 10.5 compression non ethanol fuel only.
 
What ignition system first thing

What coil and are you running a ballast resistor

Possible coil is getting hot and shutting down

Will it restart right away after a stall , like instantly
Or do you have to pump the gas pedal a bunch
 
Choke opening all the way?
 
If it goes 'way' rich & then stalls, I would be looking at fuel first, not ign. Fuel pump maybe faulty, increasing pressure causing flooding.
Does this carb have a sight glass in the fuel bowls? What is the fuel level when the problem occurs? Any dripping from the boosters?
 
If electronic ignition it CAN be the pickup or ECU braking up, pretty common. It will cause a high reading also. we have to see what ignition he has. Year of engine and what ignition would help.

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What ignition system first thing

What coil and are you running a ballast resistor

Possible coil is getting hot and shutting down

Will it restart right away after a stall , like instantly
Or do you have to pump the gas pedal a bunch
Sorry for the late response. I am running a Mopar electronic ignition with a pertronics coil. The resistor is 1.2 ohms .
What ignition system first thing

What coil and are you running a ballast resistor

Possible coil is getting hot and shutting down

Will it restart right away after a stall , like instantly
Or do you have to pump the gas pedal a bunch
Sorry about the delay in following up. Busy at work this week. So I am using a Mopar electronic ignition, a pertronix coil #40011 which is 1.5 ohm, I checked the ballast resistor and it reads 1.2 ohms. Pertronix said I could go with out a resistor but I was afraid that the ecu needed one so as not to burn out? I do have a .6 ohm resister I could try.
 
Which ECU you running? Makes a difference for the ballast resistor, but prob not your issue.
 
I agree , that coil and resistor typically is a decent combo

Like beanhead mentioned are you running a choke

Float levels

And once the car dies or stalls , what do you have to do to get it restarted

Is it flooding when hot at idle
 
I agree , that coil and resistor typically is a decent combo
I have changed the distributor pick up to eliminate that no change.
I am running a 8.5 power valve. Idle in gear vacuum is 9 but car runs great until reaches about 190-200 Cruise vacuum is about 14. Should I go to a 6.5 power valve.
Choke is open all the way.
 
When it stalls , does it fire right back up ?

Or do you have to pump the gas pedal or put the gas pedal to the floor and keep it there until it restarts

Thanx
 
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#45 - 4.5 Power Valve

And double check your float levels

Choke ?
 
The fuel pressure gauge reads 5.5 psi when cold, when hot runs 0. It is a oil filled gauge, my understanding is they don't work well when hot? I rebuilt the Carter fuel pump about a year ago.
 
I am using the mopar orange box.
Does it state "mopar authorised" or "replaces mopar ***" on it. The new replacement what I call not real orange boxes have alot of issues.
 
The fuel pressure gauge reads 5.5 psi when cold, when hot runs 0. It is a oil filled gauge, my understanding is they don't work well when hot? I rebuilt the Carter fuel pump about a year ago.
It does not start right back up It takes a few cranks. Fuel float levels are good when I first start never checked when hot.
 
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I just checked the ECU it has a mopar performance sticker in it and the center says made in USA?
 
OK to eliminate the ignition next time it quits make sure it has spark.
 
0 Fuel pressure is typically not a good thing - And you having to crank it over for a little bit to refill the float bowls answers your question
 
Does that look real?

PXL_20220910_134013003.jpg
 
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