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I'm going back to manual adjustment on my 11" front drums ('68 GTX)

UPDATE 6-26-22:
Having run out of any other excuses, it was time today to get after the actual work at hand.
Despite it being humid as hell and downright nasty outside, I jumped in both feet for some more
concrete rollin' exercise, nasty brake dust style.
Here we go...

EXISTING SITUATION:
Once I jacked up the front end and pulled the wheels and drums, here is how I found things.
View attachment 1304687View attachment 1304688View attachment 1304689View attachment 1304690
All presented dry, clean and seemingly in order - EXCEPT - those of you with sharp observation skills might detect
one slight variation between left and right sides, specifically in the hardware arrangement...

The shoes? Eye-opening...no, SHOCKING is more the descriptor to describe those as found:
View attachment 1304697View attachment 1304698
Obviously, they'd been aggressive as hell and had been getting HOT - they literally were cut/grooved in that pattern!

To be continued in next post - damn site only allows 10 pics per post....

Wow. Are you considering a disc set up for the front? I am not trying to argue about which is better because that’s up to each person. I was just thinking maybe fewer parts and maybe some half decent choices for pads. Seems like a lot of work here and here it is apart again. Just asking not trying to start anything.
 
UPDATE 6-26-22:
Having run out of any other excuses, it was time today to get after the actual work at hand.
Despite it being humid as hell and downright nasty outside, I jumped in both feet for some more
concrete rollin' exercise, nasty brake dust style.
Here we go...

EXISTING SITUATION:
Once I jacked up the front end and pulled the wheels and drums, here is how I found things.
View attachment 1304687View attachment 1304688View attachment 1304689View attachment 1304690
All presented dry, clean and seemingly in order - EXCEPT - those of you with sharp observation skills might detect
one slight variation between left and right sides, specifically in the hardware arrangement...

The shoes? Eye-opening...no, SHOCKING is more the descriptor to describe those as found:
View attachment 1304697View attachment 1304698
Obviously, they'd been aggressive as hell and had been getting HOT - they literally were cut/grooved in that pattern!

To be continued in next post - damn site only allows 10 pics per post....

The adjuster cables all look loose in your pics?
20170809_194319 (1).jpg


The pattern on the linings might be how it's applied? It might be what gives them the added "grip"? How do the drums look?
 
UPDATE 6-26-22 PART DEUX:
Ah yes, about the shoes....
Reminder - these are Porterfield manufactured in California; supposedly their "street" blend of compounds.
Yeah, about that - they, in my opinion, have no business on a passenger car driven on streets mostly.
They sure as heck don't get along with self-adjuster systems, that's for sure - which just seemed to exascerbate
the whole heat/chatter/pulling situation experienced.
They have tons of BITE, sure...

Anyways, back to the job at hand. I tore apart both sides and took the shoes to the bench, where each had the
pin for the self-adjuster removed, then each was chucked into the vise and the compound surfaces sanded down
with 100-grit on an orbital sander:
IMG_20220626_152422991_HDR.jpg
IMG_20220626_165250285.jpg
typical shoe after sanding 2 6-26-22.jpg
typical shoe after sanding 1 6-26-22.jpg
I couldn't help but notice that rich dark "carbon" coloring the shoes came out of the box with
was all but gone - but I managed to get them fairly smooth and de-grooved again.

Factory Service Manual whipped out for reference, I noticed something right away - seems the
self-adjusters they show in it aren't the same as the ones I was using:
FSM front brakes 6-26-22.jpg
Didn't much matter at this point - I had already determined I was going manual adjustment from here on,
using these:
new non-self adjusters 6-26-22.jpg
New manual adjusters and bottom shoe springs from Raybestos. $25 for the lot, not bad.
The springs are even Made in USA. The adjusters are substantial, heavy duty for sure (ordered specifically
for HD brakes) but Chinesium nonetheless. They're much heavier and larger than the factory ones.

All the self-adjuster hardware now successfully removed from both sides, a pile was formed of same:
self-adjusting hardware removed 6-26-22.jpg

Back together went both sides and once installed, the adjustments began - from behind the backing plate, the
adjuster wheel gets spun UP on drivers' side and DOWN on passenger side (they are both threaded the same,
unlike the factory LH/RH ones).
I got things close by adjusting until I just was able to get the drums back on, then finished assembling and
re-installed the wheels...

Got the wife in the car and began the "spin the wheel/slam on the brakes" dance to get everything all squared
away inside the drums, then began adjusting from the slots in the backing plates, each time spinning the wheel
and having her repeat the procedure.
Once I felt comfortable that the slight drag on both sides was adequate and fairly even side to side, it was all over.
Fred was down on all fours again, I was a sweaty/filthy mess and the brake pedal felt fantastic.
That's where things will remain now as local short trips will re-bed the shoes and establish wear patterns, with
me making any slight adjustments manually as needed along the way.

Job done....so who caught what was up with the hardware? There's actually a couple things there that raised my
curiousity for sure.
 
The adjuster cables all look loose in your pics?
View attachment 1304711

The pattern on the linings might be how it's applied? It might be what gives them the added "grip"? How do the drums look?
The one on the passenger side certainly was....notice the difference in position in the self-adjuster lever from side
to side?
Drivers' side was tight and obviously trying like hell to BURY the shoes into the drum...
Passenger side would adjust out with every brake application but would not "lock" into position, so the wheel
apparently would spin back out a little once brakes were released.
With one side aggressively self-adjusting and holding and the other, well, not....there was my pulling.
The shoe surfaces themselves were smooth as any other shoes out of the box (top secret compound, obviously some
carbon in it) so the ripples I'm sure were not intended to be there.

The drums are ok, but I did take the precaution of replacing the drivers' side with my other one (machined and ready
to go) since it was the "happy" one doing all the pulling and getting hot as hell.
 
UPDATE 7/2/22:
Happy to report that subsequent test runs both last night and again today have revealed:
a) a FANTASTIC high, firm brake pedal - that actually caught me by surprise a couple times
b) absolutely no drama - no pulling, no overheating, no grabbing, nada - just brakes
I am pleased!
 
UPDATE 7/2/22:
Happy to report that subsequent test runs both last night and again today have revealed:
a) a FANTASTIC high, firm brake pedal - that actually caught me by surprise a couple times
b) absolutely no drama - no pulling, no overheating, no grabbing, nada - just brakes
I am pleased!
That’s great news, glad you got this sorted out.
 
UPDATE 7/2/22:
Happy to report that subsequent test runs both last night and again today have revealed:
a) a FANTASTIC high, firm brake pedal - that actually caught me by surprise a couple times
b) absolutely no drama - no pulling, no overheating, no grabbing, nada - just brakes
I am pleased!
clap-applause.gif
 
Ed, thanks for the write up. I'm busy getting my rears back to manual adjust. I saved all my original parts but danged if I couldn't find my lower springs. I know for a fact I saved them because I couldn't locate replacements anywhere and was afraid they weren't made anymore....until now. :)

Springs ordered!!
 
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