I'm losin' it...

[beanhead]

I have 100 miles or so on my rebuilt 440. Been driving it around, doing coast downs and trying to keep rpms varied as much as practical. (Even though some say the old break-in stuff is outdated just drive it like you stole it)..Took it through 1st/2nd full throttle and eased off at 3rd gear. Smoke. I was close to home so got it back in the garage, had oil coming out the sides of the valley pan (it's a separate valley tray, not the stock type so the intake is sealed separately) dipstick was pushed up out of the tube an inch or two. It sprayed some oil on the header, that's what the smoke was... Valve covers were weeping a little and enough oil ran down the back of the block to leave an oreo cookie-sized spot on the floor.. Obviously this things got way too much crankcase pressure... I'm using a good PCV valve and breather, and now I'm concerned I've got a ring problem already is that possible? Or is it just because they are new and not seated all the way? These are Hastings moly rings. I have not had a chance to do a full compression test yet just wanted to see what you guys thought about all this..if it isn't one thing it's a-flipping-nother...thanks!

 

[69Bee]

The break-in oil, procedure, and your running oil to continue the break-in, is just as important today as it was long ago, if not more important now. Anyone who tells you otherwise does not know what they are talking about. Please do not drive it like you stole it, just continue to take it easy and get some more highway/cruising miles on it. You can work some heavier accelerations in after a couple hundred miles. As far as the internal pressure, if the cylinders were honed correctly (round-straight-RA) then you just need to keep breaking the rings in. The moly rings should have been a 400 grit stone for finishing, and the last step I do is finish up with a plateau hone (brush) to pre break-in the cylinders. It knocks the peaks off, and leaves the valleys on the cylinder walls. Keep the break-in going, monitor the tailpipe for oil burning, and watch the oil level.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

You sure your PCV is working properly and not stuck shut? (Or possibly installed backwards? ) The PCV is like a pressure release and check valve combined.

 

[Darter6]

Old cast rings seat faster than today's moly. Clean it up and put at about 500 miles to make sure the rings seat.
You may get many opinions. It may be it needs more run time. It would for me.
Old timers would say,"1 teaspoon of oil will leave a 6'' ring spot on the floor."

 

[beanhead]

Ok thanks...I'll keep it easy and give it more time. I used the gibbs/driven break-in oil for cam run-in, changed it out and refilled with the same for the first 100, then drained again and filled up with VR-1...is that okay now or should I continue with a purpose-made break in oil for longer?

 

[beanhead]

You sure your PCV is working properly and not stuck shut? (Or possibly installed backwards? ) The PCV is like a pressure release and check valve combined.

It's working good, I've checked it multiple times as I recently had some poor idling issues(which turned out to be my ECU).

One thing I thought of, is these Edelbrock heads...they don't have the big pushrod openings like factory heads do. The pushrod holes are only a little bit bigger than the rods and then there are a couple of small holes for oil return..a little restrictive on airflow maybe? I considered moving the PCV to the valley, back behind the carb, and then just having a breather in each valve cover... Or am I out in left field on that one?! (entirely possible..)

 

[beanhead]

One thing to note....I drove the car once since and didn't get on it hard, and everything stayed dry. Looks like it was just the short higher-rpm blast that resulted in the leakage..(of course a re-seal of the valley will be in order).

 

[fratzog lover]

Hastings were some of the go to rings for a mopar back in the day. They had a good reputation with the Chrysler V8 crowd.

 

[Oldreddodge]

You ain’t lousing it,you all ready lost it, now your lookin for it

 

[66 Sat]

The advice my engine builder gave me was to load the car up with as much weight as possible and then take the car up a local mountain on a 100-200 mile run. Don't let the engine labour in too high a gear and don't rev the nuts off it, but accelerate positively up the hills in the correct gear - really make the motor work and that will seat the rings properly. He reckoned babying the motor was not the best way. I followed his advice and have no issues whatsoever - probably about 3,000 miles on the motor now, doesn't use any oil, doesn't smoke, runs strong (for a 318 poly). I'm not trying a start a "best break-in" argument, just sharing what I was told and what worked for me.

 

[khryslerkid]

I'd give it 500 miles with a non synthetic oil. Useing a synthetic oil won't let things wear in.

Find a hilly road so you can get some good deacceleration. Back pressure on the rings can be as important as accelerating.

Good luck!

 

[beanhead]

You ain’t lousing it,you all ready lost it, now your lookin for it

You got that straight! This thing's been driving me nuts (real short drive!)

 

[beanhead]

I'd give it 500 miles with a non synthetic oil. Useing a synthetic oil won't let things wear in.

Find a hilly road so you can get some good deacceleration. Back pressure on the rings can be as important as accelerating.

Good luck!

Thanks KK, I'll do that... I do happen to know where some pretty good hills are (if my avatar's any clue! ha)

 

[69Bee]

It's working good, I've checked it multiple times as I recently had some poor idling issues(which turned out to be my ECU).

One thing I thought of, is these Edelbrock heads...they don't have the big pushrod openings like factory heads do. The pushrod holes are only a little bit bigger than the rods and then there are a couple of small holes for oil return..a little restrictive on airflow maybe? I considered moving the PCV to the valley, back behind the carb, and then just having a breather in each valve cover... Or am I out in left field on that one?! (entirely possible..)

The holes are just fine; no air restriction. Keep the PCV in one valve cover, so it can draw air in thru the breather, down thru the crankcase, and out of the other valve cover into the carb. Once the rings seat, you should be fine. As far as the break-in oil, Joe Gibbs (now Driven) recommends using the BR oil for NO more than 400 miles, or 30 days. The 30 days is because the required additive to prevent flash rusting of the cylinders is not in it. They recommend breaking in the cam, change the filter, top off, and run it for 400 miles. Then change oil and filter for their HR (hotrod) or Street Performance oils. They have oils (synthetic or conventional) with zinc for LS motors (LS series), Ford Modular/Coyote motors/ Mopar Hemi's (FR series), Turbo motors (DT series), Direct Injection motors (DI series), etc.. I ONLY sell Driven oil, and highly recommend it to my customers. I use their assembly grease when assembling motors, and stand by them. Anyway, they have great products and will fully explain any questions if you call them. https://www.drivenracingoil.com/

 

[beanhead]

The holes are just fine; no air restriction. Keep the PCV in one valve cover, so it can draw air in thru the breather, down thru the crankcase, and out of the other valve cover into the carb. Once the rings seat, you should be fine. As far as the break-in oil, Joe Gibbs (now Driven) recommends using the BR oil for NO more than 400 miles, or 30 days. The 30 days is because the required additive to prevent flash rusting of the cylinders is not in it. They recommend breaking in the cam, change the filter, top off, and run it for 400 miles. Then change oil and filter for their HR (hotrod) or Street Performance oils. They have oils (synthetic or conventional) with zinc for LS motors (LS series), Ford Modular/Coyote motors/ Mopar Hemi's (FR series), Turbo motors (DT series), Direct Injection motors (DI series), etc.. I ONLY sell Driven oil, and highly recommend it to my customers. I use their assembly grease when assembling motors, and stand by them. Anyway, they have great products and will fully explain any questions if you call them. https://www.drivenracingoil.com/

Thank you much for the advice. I have no problem putting the Driven stuff in again; it's good and clingy that's for sure...I noticed it keeps a slimy film on parts better than the valvoline!

 

[furryfrog]

The advice my engine builder gave me was to load the car up with as much weight as possible and then take the car up a local mountain on a 100-200 mile run. Don't let the engine labour in too high a gear and don't rev the nuts off it, but accelerate positively up the hills in the correct gear - really make the motor work and that will seat the rings properly. He reckoned babying the motor was not the best way. I followed his advice and have no issues whatsoever - probably about 3,000 miles on the motor now, doesn't use any oil, doesn't smoke, runs strong (for a 318 poly). I'm not trying a start a "best break-in" argument, just sharing what I was told and what worked for me.

That's good advice, a hill is a good idea. The engine needs cylinder pressure to seat the rings.

Dont give up hope on your engine. I bought a ducat 748 with 10000km on it. Went through a lot of oil, like 1l in 500km, that's tons for a 748cc engine. Went and bought the some cheap mineral based motorcycle oil from Canadian tire. Took the bike on a 800km trip out of the city, getting on the gas as much as possible, I think I only needed to add 1/3 liter from an extra quart I took with me. That was it, never used a drop of oil after that. Ran cheap oil in my expensive Italian sport bike for a further 6000km,Had the bike till 40000km.
I'm guessing the previous owner used expensive full synthetic and drove to the local coffee shops throughout the city, and was too scared to twist the throttle all the way.

I hope your engine sorted out, sucks having more issues after getting a different one sorted out. Perhaps the previous ignition problem has contributed to the blow by problem. Inefficient combustion at idle?

 

[Wietse]

Crankcase pressure will be higher then normal because as long as the rings have not worn in there is a more blow-by then normal.
As the guys suggest, keep driving to get them seated and after it should be good.
Oil consumption is also something that will be "high" during it's break-in time.

The engine really needs some variable and decent load, this makes sure the cylinder pressure is keeping the rings seated properly against the cylinder wall and wear in properly.
If this process goes too slow the "roughness" of the cylinder wall will be worn off and your rings are still not fully seated.

 

[miller]

Just a little old school add-on, for break-in.
Going by ring type, X number of break-in miles (100-500), not over 55-60 mph, and don't keep it at a constant speed. Minor speed changes help the rings to seat, which is the goal.
That's the way I break mine in. After that...blow, or go!

 

[69a100]

My brothers Satellite will do the same except at idle when you pull the PCV outta the system. Had a heck of a time trying to tune the thing like that. Oil would spit up and out the dipstick tube like it was no one business even with the stick in place. Like yours he has less then 100 miles on his build and never really drives it. Good Luck

 

[eldubb440]

is the pcv hose collapsing?