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Is this normal or did my timing chain slip ?

pearljam724

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I removed timing chain cover on small block 360 to drill out a broken power steering bracket bolt. My timing chain is fairly tight on left (passénger side). Moves about 1/4 inch. The right is very sloppy. Moves left to right about 1.5 inches. There is absolutely no wear on the teeth top and bottom. No noticeably noises when it was running before tear down. I bought the car back in November. Someone else installed an aftermarket cam. The chain looks new, but that’s hard to decipher. I assume it isn’t old based that there isn’t one spec of rust or heated on grime. So, I honestly don’t know how old it is. Please watch video.
 
Normal... Grab a rachet & socket, put light tension on the cam socket in one direction then use a felt tip pen, mark a link pin on the chain & a corresponding mark on the block, now reverse the tension on the cam sprocket & make a second mark representing how far the timing moved... Per the factory service manual 3/16" is acceptable, Replace the chain when there is 1/4" of movement.. I'll bet you have less than an 1/8"
 
I removed timing chain cover on small block 360 to drill out a broken power steering bracket bolt. My timing chain is fairly tight on left (passénger side). Moves about 1/4 inch. The right is very sloppy. Moves left to right about 1.5 inches. There is absolutely no wear on the teeth top and bottom. No noticeably noises when it was running before tear down. I bought the car back in November. Someone else installed an aftermarket cam. The chain looks new, but that’s hard to decipher. I assume it isn’t old based that there isn’t one spec of rust or heated on grime. So, I honestly don’t know how old it is. Please watch video.

MO chain an gears junk.
 
Normal... Grab a rachet & socket, put light tension on the cam socket in one direction then use a felt tip pen, mark a link pin on the chain & a corresponding mark on the block, now reverse the tension on the cam sprocket & make a second mark representing how far the timing moved... Per the factory service manual 3/16" is acceptable, Replace the chain when there is 1/4" of movement.. I'll bet you have less than an 1/8"
Why is it tight on one side though and sloppy on the other? Regardless of it being too sloppy or not. Shouldn’t both sides have the same amount of play ?
 
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Why it’ tight on one side though and sloppy on the other? Regardless of it being too sloppy or not. Shouldn’t both sides have the same amount of play ?

The crankshaft always rotates in one direction, the camshaft is pulled along by the timing chain but the valve springs cause it to resist turning...
 
Side that is loose is way to loose. No they won't have same slop, see above post.
 
Side that is loose is way to loose.

First time I saw that I felt the same way & for a serious performance engine I still do, but honestly it's well within manufacturers spec & if you put a degree wheel on it I'll bet it's less then 3 degrees...
 
I would replace it while you have it opened up. That would but me.
 
I would replace it while you I've it opened up. That would but me.

Thing is if you replace it that slop will be back by the time you hit 5000 miles... But then the wear stabilizes & if you check it with 50,000 miles it won't have changed much.... I did exactly that on a few cars back in the 70's & 80's..
 
The crankshaft always rotates in one direction, the camshaft is pulled along by the timing chain but the valve springs cause it to resist turning...
If I rotate the engine in opposite direction several degrees. Would that work in giving me a better idea on how loose it is ? It should take that tension out of the left side enough to give me a better idea I’m thinking. In between that point and before it would start creating tension on the opposite side. Does that sound right ? I’ve seen my fair share of timing chain videos, etc. I’ve never seen them not equally tensioned on both sides. I’m not disputing the point you made. Because I thought the same. But, thought it was very odd.
 
I've never watched a timing chain video other than yours in my life... But I've worked on cars since the early 70's & thats how the slack is....

Take my info for what it's worth, make your own choices...

You chain is whats called a "Silent Link Chain" the original chain was also a silent link chain but it had a nylon coated cam gear... They always loosen up then stabilize...
Rebuilders & OE use them cause they are cheap & do an adequate job...

If you want more precise timing put a quality true double roller chain & gears on it...
 
Since you have everything off and this concerns you then replace it......

I see a chain that has a bit of stretch but doesn't warrant replacing it......
 
I've never watched a timing chain video other than yours in my life... But I've worked on cars since the early 70's & thats how the slack is....

Take my info for what it's worth, make your own choices...

You chain is whats called a "Silent Link Chain" the original chain was also a silent link chain but it had a nylon coated cam gear... They always loosen up then stabilize...
Rebuilders & OE use them cause they are cheap & do an adequate job...

If you want more precise timing put a quality true double roller chain & gears on it...
I appreciate it. I’m not disregarding what you said. So, it’s ok as is. But, it retards timing several degrees is the worst side effect. And if I wanted to replace it with a double roller. That would simply give me a more stout chain that is less acceptable to slop/ wear and in turn would also account for more accurate timing. It may be worth replacing it just to have more accurate timing. I need to make that decision before I decide to button it back up. Or maybe, I ll wait 5k miles or so. Thank you
 
Wild R/T is correct about silent chain(OEM style) setups. My experience is they also tend to have more "slop" in them even new, than a quality double roller chain. If it's a performance application, I'd put a good double roller in while it's apart. My drag motors with Cloyes race double rollers get well over 500 runs with almost 0 tension change, with BIG valve springs. IMHO.
Also if you replace it be VERY careful to get it set correctly. I would even degree the cam after changing the chain, just to be sure. I did have one timing set that visually looked like the marks lined up, but were not when I degree'd it.
 
Wild R/T was right. The only one that said it was fine, lol ! Yeah, I didn’t go off the previous timing dots on the gears. I brought piston #1 to tdc one rotation and reset them. It’s set a few degrees advanced. But, so were the previous gears.
 
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