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Issues With Current Cycling

rstockbridge

Well-Known Member
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5:36 AM
Joined
Nov 14, 2017
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Location
Mason, Texas
I installed an MSD box and MSD ready to run distributor. I was told that with the ready to run distributor I needed to remove the ballast resistor, which I did. After everything was installed and the ballast resistor was removed, I noticed the dome light, e-brake light, etc. cycles between dim and bright. I put a meter on the battery and it was putting out 18V, so I replaced the voltage regulator. That knocked it down to 15V, but the lights are still cycling between dim and bright. Does anyone in Mopar world have any ideas?
 
Could be a diode problem in the alternator. Just a thought.
 
I mounted my MSD close to distributor, and I did have to seperate some wiring after install (alt field wires, dist, box) due to some issues. Also had to change some grounds around (away from alt) and added a good ground to alt.
 
An msd box needs a non ready to run dist, and a ready to run dist doesn't need a box.
How does one wire this up?
 
Does the symptom occur with engine running, with engine off, or both ?
 
First, follow the instructions and MAKE SURE all your wiring is correct, and the connections solid.
 
Had the problem of lights pulsing, especially at idle. Tried bypassing amperage gauge and found connector at bulkhead heat damaged and a bit corroded, bypassed by drilling out bulkhead so wire can pass thru. Still had flickering lights.

Had alternator go out, replacement worked for a couple weeks. Alternator checked ok at parts store so got new regulator, still not charging. Checked wiring with multi meter, seems OK, but something is wrong somewhere. Bypassed original wiring from regulator to alternator with new wire and used a keyed relay to supply 12V direct from battery, also new wire from alternator direct to battery (with fusible link) now steady at idle and charging well.

Old wiring had problems, corrosion, possible breaks. Cut some original wire apart and wire was discolored and had green corrosion under insulation near connectors, wire is 50+ years old. Was going to buy a one wire alternator if new wiring did not work.
 
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FYI, I had also eliminated ballast resistor to run HEI module.

Was not getting enough voltage that was causing engine to backfire under load. Would rev in neutral fine. Had to use relay to get batt voltage to coil. Again, old bad connectors/wiring causing voltage drops.
 
I installed an MSD box and MSD ready to run distributor. I was told that with the ready to run distributor I needed to remove the ballast resistor, which I did. After everything was installed and the ballast resistor was removed, I noticed the dome light, e-brake light, etc. cycles between dim and bright. I put a meter on the battery and it was putting out 18V, so I replaced the voltage regulator. That knocked it down to 15V, but the lights are still cycling between dim and bright. Does anyone in Mopar world have any ideas?
IMO, The voltage regulator's only job is to try and keep the voltage around 14.2 volts. The Alternator is designed to put out around 17 volts. When you were seeing 18 volts, your alternator was doing its job but the regulator was not. Your new regulator is still almost 1 volt too high so one possibility is a poor ground. If you have a digital ohm meter, check your regulator case to neg battery post. Should read less than .3 ohms if it is a good ground. While you are at it check the alternator case to neg post. Should be the same. If everything shows a good ground, your regulator needs to be replaced or tweaked because 15 volts will cook your battery over time.
Bad grounds and poor connections are the biggest cause of electrical issues.
 
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