It's Alive...The Monster is Alive!!!!!!!

[cr8crshr]

This morning I headed over to my Brothers house to Fire Up the 66 Plymouth Satellite project. After an exhaustive re-build of the 383, this time we feel we have it right. Nervous as a de-clawed Cat in a fight. 8 years of trials and set backs is hopefully finally coming to an end. Well it fired up :hello2::hello2::hello2::headbang::headbang::headbang::blob1::blob1::blob1:
after some initial tweaking but I now have some issues that have me baffled...

1. I have oil percolating out of the top of the Oil Dipstick Tube. What would cause this as it wasn't there earlier? I am running an HV Oil Pump and my gauge is showing 75-80 psi which is the range recommended for this engine build. It also is leaking at the lower block where the Dip Stick Tube goes into the block and then pan. I figure that one I can just reseal it with some RTV sealer but why would the oil be percolating up through the tube? I have a wind-age tray installed if there is any questions there. Stock 402 oil pan also with a center sump pickup.

2. Damn rear main seal is leaking again. Not as severely as earlier but enough for a small drip. I can live with that one for a bit while this engine gets broken in some more as my thinking is that eventually after everything gets warmed up, expanded and contracted, etc. it might just stop. Or slow down to a minimal leak which again I can live with.

3. I still have a knock somewhere in the top end. Appears to be more in the vicinity of the rear section of the heads. I just cannot pin point exactly where though. I replaced my 516's with 440 Source Heads and re-used my roller rockers and rocker shafts from the 516's. I clearanced the push rod sleeves as recommended by 440 Source and they measured perfectly for them. My roller rockers are CAT adjustable so I am wondering if that might be the problem. I have used them before on a similar build with no issues, but I have heard on various forums and topics Boards that they are not all that reliable. The knocking increases with any increase in engine RPM's. I am quite sure it isn't the Flex Plate to Crank Bolts, or Flex Plate Bolts to Torque Converter. That was checked and double checked when I re-installed the engine so I know I got them right. I hate to have to re-lash again because it is an ***-Pain trying to do it while the engine is in the car. But I will if I have to. Is there though something else I might consider or check out that would solve this one issue for me?

Other than that, the Engine has that nice new car smell to it after initial running and the exhaust has a really great sound to it. I don't have an overly "rich" smell but a rather cleaner exhaust smell than before with the 516's. At least that is telling me that the engine likes what I have done to it. But the knocking is really causing me concern. I could use some great FBBO advice....cr8crshr/Tuck

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Check your pcv system. Excessive crankcase pressure is the only thing i could think of that will push oil out the dipstick tube. Or you have way too much oil in it. Not sure on the knock. I cant hear it.

 

[arizona satellite]

X2 on the crankcase vent/ PCV valve. your rear main seal, did you install it flush with the block and retainer or clock it? I have found that setting the seal at 10&4 works well rather then having the seal meat at the block pan rail.

 

[cr8crshr]

X2 on the crankcase vent/ PCV valve. your rear main seal, did you install it flush with the block and retainer or clock it? I have found that setting the seal at 10&4 works well rather then having the seal meat at the block pan rail.

I clocked it @ the 10&4 position. I've known about that one for a while. My first leak earlier was using the billet Aluminum retainer and replaced it with an original set up. The old adage of measure 2 times and apply once comes into play here and I did it on the repair. Thanks for the suggestion on the PCV set up. I initially had one set up buts it was recommended that I not use one. I am going back to the initial way and use it....cr8crshr/Tuck

 

[67 B-body]

Did you use the same pistons/rods as before? Top end knock could be a piston pin, loose piston to cyl wall clearance can cause it when cold but go away when warm......
Perhaps the 80 PSI can cause leakage at the rear main.....???? It is a pretty high pressure and the seal is right behind the rear main bearing. Mine started out around 70 PSI new,,, then dropped down a bit after I ran it for a while.......
I have never had a rear main seal leak around the crankshaft, and I have no funny tricks to get it sealed up.... Just installed like the factory has always worked for me....
Are you over filling the oil??? does your windage tray allow for proper drain back to the pan while running? Maybe the oil is pooling up above the windage tray and being slung up the dipstick tube?