It's only 51 years old.why is there always one?

[jeepthrills01]

And its frozen in the timing cover...and at the threads.

Been doing the heat n beat...PB Blaster...bolt extractor...vice grips...and I only have a mapp torch..my ex wouldn't give up my Oxy-acet torch when I was there last week...

 

[tnfastback]

Try a pipe wrench.

 

[slimt]

Looks like that cover will come off of there. No?

 

[jeepthrills01]

Frozen in place...guess the PO didnt understand anti sieze with dissimilar metals.

 

[jeepthrills01]

The pipe wrench will follow more mapp torch heat tomorrow....

 

[slimt]

That stud will come out. Get that sucker red hot.

 

[Demonic]

Kroil.

 

[cryplydog]

I think I would use a little heat on the "X".

 

[dvw]

Heat the stud then quench the stud itself. A little rattle straight in with a blunt air chisel. Or a few good raps with a hammer straight in will help as well. Just went through this with a 68 318.
Doug

 

[khryslerkid]

If you can get the cover off it will allow you to get closer to the threaded end of the bolt, less twisting of the bolt.

 

[493 Mike]

If you can get the cover off it will allow you to get closer to the threaded end of the bolt, less twisting of the bolt.

With the cover off the bolt will break at the first thread below the shank without heat or penetrant but, it's probably seized in the aluminum anyway.
Mike

 

[jeepthrills01]

That stud will come out. Get that sucker red hot.

I have..several times

Kroil.

I'll give it a shot..always liked PB.

Heat the stud then quench the stud itself. A little rattle straight in with a blunt air chisel. Or a few good raps with a hammer straight in will help as well. Just went through this with a 68 318.
Doug

Planning on this a few times..and been beating it intermittently with a 3lb baby sledge and air hammer.

With the cover off the bolt will break at the first thread below the shank without heat or penetrant but, it's probably seized in the aluminum anyway.
Mike

Yup...

 

[Mike67]

I would get the block red hot as close as you can where the boss is. MAPP has its limitations as far s the amount of heat it can generate.

 

[jeepthrills01]

Yeah...just afraid to distort the cover...at least its hotter than propane..lol

 

[69 GTX]

I'd be for welding a nut on so you can use the impact gun.

 

[Mike67]

I dont think you will hurt the cover if youre on the block. If your really worried about it you can cover the area with thermal paste or have a wet rag to quench it...
I would much rather get the stud out completely than break it and have to drill and tap...
Best of luck!

 

[Darter6]

Oh the fun it is working on old cars..Yeppie !

 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I feel your pain. My thought..... cut a slot in the cover and see if you can wiggle the cover off (you can always get a new cover). Then you can apply heat right at the block. That way you only have one thing going against you... not two. Use something you can control, like a Dremel or ? Time consuming YES, but it beats block damage

 

[jeepthrills01]

V

 

[jeepthrills01]

I'd be for welding a nut on so you can use the impact gun.

Me too...but my ex sold my welder.

I dont think you will hurt the cover if youre on the block. If your really worried about it you can cover the area with thermal paste or have a wet rag to quench it...
I would much rather get the stud out completely than break it and have to drill and tap...
Best of luck!

Yeah..beaking the same bolt twice...is just thoroughly unacceptable.

Oh the fun it is working on old cars..Yeppie !

Tounge in cheek...muttering under my breath...this is exactly what I thought...and why I posted it..lol

I feel your pain. My thought..... cut a slot in the cover and see if you can wiggle the cover off (you can always get a new cover). Then you can apply heat right at the block. That way you only have one thing going against you... not two. Use something you can control, like a Dremel or ? Time consuming YES, but it beats block damage

Anyone got a pre 1970 LA timing cover.