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just a few sanding/painting ???

Bens69PlymouthSatellite

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what would all of you recomend as far as sanding my engine compartment? meaning palm sander grinder or just sanding block and sand paper also does anyone know if my primer has to be a specific color to paint my car b5 blue as my final paint job?
 
My car is going to be B5 Blue, I will use a primer the same color as "dip tank" gray. If I'm done before you ask for some pics.
 
you will definently be done before me my project is not going very smooth at all at this point Im a beginner and all my so called help has bailed on me time after time so im pretty much going to swim or die with this car and do it myself,good luck with your car PM me if you are ever out my way!and thanks alot!
 
use the palm sander with 320 grit paper on as much as you can then get the areas you missed by hand and primer color shouldnt matter just depending on the quality of your paint you may need more coats if you used a darker primer my factory primer color was a reddish brown on my car however now im using a yellow primer
 
I was wondering what type of primer I should use and what brand,also when sanding I should sand in a straight line shouldnt I? how many coats? should I wet sand every new coat? or just the final coat?Im a beginner like I said and I dont wanna screw this up,thanks alot for your patience and responses!
 
Degrease the engine compartment thoroughly with warm soapy water first, followed by a quality wax, grease and silicone remover. If there is any rust present, spot blast the areas. A hand scuff with 400 the open areas works until the shine is gone, feather any chipped areas with an orbital sander. The reason I suggest hand scuffing instead of the orbital is you don't necessarily want to remove all the paint in the compartment and the orbital is fairly aggressive. On bare metal areas an etching primer should be used before a primer surfacer is applied. Ultimately an epoxy primer is the best solution as a ground coat over bare metal, but on a tight budget etch is fine. 2-3 coats of surfacer is fine, but only apply the primer surfacer where needed, over feathered areas/ sanded through areas. Paint sticks best to paint, and priming the whole engine compartment is not always necessary. Use a grey scotch brite pad in the areas that sandpaper won't reach (the tight areas) and be thorough with your sanding. If you are using single stage paint, 320 sandpaper will work, but if base coat clear coat is used, minimum 400 grit is the ticket...Clean the compartment!!!
 
a good and cheap degreaser is Simple Green. (buy the gallon jug, and put in your own spray bottle)
I use it all the time on everything on vehicles. Great for cleaning your tires, and brake dust also.
It the best thing I have found to clean my white walls on my Harley road King.
 
So are you saying I dont have to sand off all the factory paint? because if thats the case the engine bay still has pretty much all the factory paint and very little rust if any,so I use epoxy primer to do my first coat then the regular primer for my second and third coat any brands I should look for as far as paint?
 
you will definently be done before me my project is not going very smooth at all at this point Im a beginner and all my so called help has bailed on me time after time so im pretty much going to swim or die with this car and do it myself,good luck with your car PM me if you are ever out my way!and thanks alot!

Checkout my site, it might help, or try this other site

www.cardomain.com/ride/3160504

www.69hemi.com

The other site has a RR on it so that might help.
 
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first read the product before you buy it second you need to match corresponding products to each other in example use a urethane primer with urethane paint, everything needs to be scuffed not neccesarilly down to bare metal but cant be glossy this will cause your paint to flake off later. now as for primering the whole engine carpartment yes you do need to do it as for the comment about having to use etching primer for bare metal this is why i said read your product i have seen urethane primers that need etch primer first and ive seen urethane primers that dont need etch. i say prime the whole engine bay for the simple fact that you dont know for sure what type of paint is in there urethane, laquer, enamel ect. some types of paint will react against other types of paint and will actually start to wrinkle right in front of you as your spraying hence the reason to prime everything. now im not a certified body tech however my father is and owned his own shop as i grew up i did work for him off and on however i never got ASE or Icar certified i am not a professional but i do have one at my dispossal (kinda nice having bodymen in the family)

i personally stick to urethane products and as for how many coats i would do 2 to 3 coats of primer that can be applied roughly 10 mins apart depending on the heat and what activator you use for your primer. i would let that dry at least 4 - 8 hours before i would scuff it again to go further which once again depends on your product you may need to spray a coat of sealer over the primer before you spray your paint down and as for paint i preferr base coat clear coat it gives alot more depth to it than top coat only paint

im not sure if im forgetting anything im ready to fall asleep right now so hope this helps
 
a good and cheap degreaser is Simple Green. (buy the gallon jug, and put in your own spray bottle)
I use it all the time on everything on vehicles. Great for cleaning your tires, and brake dust also.
It the best thing I have found to clean my white walls on my Harley road King.

x2 :yes: good stuff!!!
 
Not here to disregard morbid goat, but you do not have to primer surfacer the whole engine compartment if your paint is not peeling, has alot of rust etc. There are as many ways to tackle this project as their are products out there Ben, and a lot of money can be wasted here if you are not careful. I will give you my car as an example...super clean rust free engine compartment...paint in pretty good condition and could be scuffed and sprayed, BUT, I am having the whole car media blasted to bare metal and epoxied prior to primer surfacer being applied. If I was not going that route and wanted to do an economical job relatively speaking, I would do just as I had previously described. Clean the engine bay, sand with 320/400, etch prime any bare metal I have present and apply surfacer to the areas I have sanded through. Allow to cure, and scuff the primered areas with 320/400, blow it down, clean with a mild wax and grease remover, mask the area and spray...Either method will produce the same end result IF you follow the paint manufacturers instructions to a 'T'.
I have over 30 years experience in autobody, in fact I teach collision repair and refinishing and I don't feel comfortable handing out advice all the time due to the varying circumstances that can arise at anytime during application/preparation. It is not due to my lack of knowledge, it's the fact that I cannot physically see your situation. Also the fact that materials are a small fortune these days makes me cautious, an example here would be a quart of reduced primer to spray the whole compartment 2X as compared to spot priming, maybe 4-6 oz. I will always try and give the most up to date correct info here, but ultimately you are on your own...see if you can track down a body tech/painter that can give you advice on materials/procedures, the case of beer it takes to lure them into your garage will be well worth it!
Good luck...J
 
I actually have some body guys on my side that own a body shop but im just trying to learn on my own as well ,would regular spray cans be ok? or should I use a paint sprayer,thanks for all the advice much appreciation!
 
Spray cans are out of the question...catalysed materials are the only way to get the job done...as I said before, get some advice from your body guys, if money is the issue, wait until you can afford it! I, like many others here have to budget for our projects...It's tuff because money dictates everything, ambition and time are (sometimes) easier to come by...

You will need a decent compressor, minimum 5 horse and 16-18 cfm output combined with a good water trap/transformer. Spray gun, lines etc. Smaller compressors will work but they work harder, produce lots of condensation due to heat which pollutes your paint...even with a very good water trap...it's a costly enterprise...

Good luck Ben!
 
My Charger has been sprayed in Omni SV and Omni AU primers, I can't remember which is etch and which is high build but they are excellent quality.
 
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