1. c.moo

    c.moo Well-Known Member

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    Need plans on how to build k-member stand that fits on atv jack , there was a member here who build him one few years back . Try to PM him but no reply .Thanks
     
  2. dadsbee

    dadsbee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Here's mine.. worked perfect, although I was using a 2 post lift to raise the car off and lower it back on to the K frame assembly.
    beerestoration2017 785.JPG
    beerestoration2015 306.JPG
     
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    • moparnation74

      moparnation74 Well-Known Member

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      Similar type as above......Bot dollies are from Northern Tool and some 4 x 4 and 2 x4 blocks.......

      IMG_1642.JPG
       
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      • moparcrazy

        moparcrazy Well-Known Member

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        This one is from a Co. that is no longer in business, Dutch Bro. I happen to have one and it works awesome !!
        4923749-IMG_1726.jpg
         
        Last edited: Apr 29, 2018
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        • moparcrazy

          moparcrazy Well-Known Member

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          Here's the full kit, includes the front dolly used not only to lift the car with an engine hoist, but caster's located at the bottom so the car remains mobile

          32011370040_original.jpg
           
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          • 5wndwcpe

            5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Here is the one I think the OP is referring to. It's made of 2" angle and 1.5" flat stock. It was designed to fit a motorcycle lift and works on both big and small blocks. The lift is maneuverable and raises to meet the k frame. It works with the transmission attached and all of the accessories.

            engine cradle.jpg P1010019.JPG P1010022.JPG P1010023.JPG P1010024.JPG
             
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            • 5wndwcpe

              5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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              The lift.

              P1010001-1.JPG
               
            • Cmmopar

              Cmmopar Well-Known Member

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              IMG_5383.JPG IMG_5382.JPG One of the best designs and material/plans write ups for k frame dolly that I have seen. Rods on front posts of dolly fit factory holes in bottom of kframe leaving all k frame bolt holes open for easy installation. Jack in rear is nice design..Thanks to cudascott from forabodiesonly..


              "
              8' - 2"x2" tubing with 3/16" wall
              2' - 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" tubing with 3/16" wall
              2' - 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" tubing with 1/8" wall
              6" - 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" tubing with 1/4" wall
              12 - 3/8" X 1" grade 8 bolts
              8 - 3/8" nuts
              2 - 1/4" X 3/4" bolts
              2 - 1/4" nuts
              2 - 1/2" X 3 1/2" bolts
              4 - 1/2" nuts
              2 - 3" HD swivel casters
              1 - 3" HD fixed caster
              Some 3/16"" plate steel for caster pads, jack pad and two 1 1/2" square pieces for the top of the uprights to hold the 1/2" pins. (Can just weld the casters on)

              Cut a piece of 2"X 2" tubing 29 1/2" in lenght and the second one 60" this will make the tee. Next cut four 4 1/2" lengths of the 2 1/2" tubing with 3/16" wall this will be for the adjustable sliders. Cut two 7" lengths of the 1 1/2" tubing this will be for the uprights that hold the pins. Cut one 1 1/2" tubing 5 1/2" in lenght this will be for the rear engine support. Cut two pieces of 1 1/2"X11/2" X 3/16" plate and one 4" X 6" X 3/16" plate.
              Now the four pieces of 2 1/2" tubing 4 1/2" long will need
              two holes drilled in each one 1" inch from each end and on center. This will be where the 3/8" nuts will be welded for the 3/8" set bolts this will also need to be done on the 5 1/2" piece of the 1 1/2" square tubing for the 1/4" set bolts.Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of the 1 1/2"X1 1/2"X 3/16" then weld the two 1/2" nuts on centered over the hole. This will be for the 1/2" pins, then weld them on one end of the two 7" pieces
              of the 1 1/2" tubing with the welded nut inside tubing. Once the ends are welded on then weld the 7" pieces to two of the 2 1/2" tubing that's 4 1/2" long place them 3/4"
              from the end (refer to the pics) also the set bolts will be at the bottom. The other two pieces of 2 1/2" tubing 4 1/2"
              long wil be for the trans jack and rear engine support.
              Weld the 4"x6" 3/16" plate to one of them with the set bolts to the bottom also this plate will need to be offset 2 3/8" to the right from center of plate the 6" lenght this is due to the offset of the engine in relation to the k frame and frame rails. the 1 1/2" tubing 5 1/2" welds to last piece of 2 1/2" tubing for the rear engine support. I have not finished this part yet just waiting to get the engine and tranny on to see what's needed. If you want to be able to disassemble it for storage cut the tee on the long piece 4"
              back from the short side of the tee and use the 2 1/2 tubing that's 6" long to couple it together. Drill and tap
              two 3/8" holes on each end of the coupling to secure the tee together. Then install casters however you choose.

              Then stencil "poor boy" on it and if you decide to build and sell them give me some royalty money.:rofl: "


              https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/built-me-a-new-tool.350813/
               
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              • Richard Cranium

                Richard Cranium FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Must have been interesting finagling the shifter lever in the hole in the floor while lowering it. :D


                beerestoration2017-785-jpg.jpg
                 
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                • dadsbee

                  dadsbee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Probably could have put it up in 3rd... but it's a slip out Pro comp!
                  beerestoration2017 1852.JPG
                   
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                  • kiwigtx

                    kiwigtx International Mod Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    upload_2018-5-13_10-11-59.png

                    upload_2018-5-13_10-12-30.png

                    upload_2018-5-13_10-12-39.png

                    upload_2018-5-13_10-12-48.png
                     
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                    • c.moo

                      c.moo Well-Known Member

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                    • c.moo

                      c.moo Well-Known Member

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                      It said use two 1/2 pins for holes in k-member , not mounting holes . I have 2 holes ,not 1/2 inch in k-member , the holes i have in my is 5/16 and 7 7/8 from center to center . If drill these out bigger will be hitting side of k -member and 7 7/8 seems not far apart to hold load . What am i missing here ? Thanks
                       
                    • 70BeepBeep

                      70BeepBeep Well-Known Member

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                      Try this.. this is the one I built.
                       

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                      • Mocajava

                        Mocajava FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        IMG_1234.JPG
                        IMG_1024.JPG I taught my son how to weld on this small project. I used 1/2" pins to locate the K member. That is a TCI/4L80 tranny with a bullet proof bell housing mated to the 383 block (in upper picture). I use engine/ cherry picker lift to raise car as most do, slide under and drop in bolts....pretty simple and takes about 35 minutes to have her cinched down.
                         
                      • SoCal440GTX

                        SoCal440GTX Well-Known Member

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                        I had 2 of those built, but haven't used one yet.
                        Now I'd like plans for this...

                        32011370040_original.jpg
                         
                      • SureGrip

                        SureGrip FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        That's slicker than goose crap. Nice!
                         
                      • skicker

                        skicker Well-Known Member

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                        Mine seems to work very well...
                        You don't have to have the car very high in the air as the rear tires stay on the ground.
                        I use an engine crane on a piece of 2x2 box tubing between the frame rails to lift the car up.
                        Slide the engine...trans and K frame in and lower it down.
                        No removing the hood or grill or front bumper.
                        Connect the 4 transmission cross-member bolts first and then lower it down a little more to attach the K frame.
                        It takes maybe 15 minutes from the time you lift the car till it's back on the jack stands with the crane removed...
                        Attaching the 2x2 tubing and running the crane in under the upper rad support makes it great for lifting the car very high to clean and paint.

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