I spent a weekend cutting metal and welding to gusset up the K-frame, make a hemi style skidplate and making LCA stiffening plates. While at it I seam welded the entire K-frame. I haven't put it into the car yet, but I had fun doing it and it looks cool sitting on the floor waiting for the engine to get installed.
I'm also going with the 11/16 tie rod ends and the PST adjusting sleeve but sticking with the factory manual steering box with the long steering and pitman arms.
I had as far as the gusseting and skid plate....I had all the material laying around so all I was out was time. The trick is to make all your templates out of cardboard first to get the fit right.
Thanks dsd that's exactly why I was asking. Thinking maybe it would be better same some restification dollars for other stuff. Thought I'd give it a shot to see if there were any guys local that could do that since it's definitely beyond my skill set. I also appreciate your feedback. I'll go the with welding up the seems too depending on cost and who I find to do it. I got a line on a local guy from NAPA today that I'll call this weekend and feel him out for what he's comfortable doing and prices. Still would prefer a Mopar guy that has done this before but then again maybe he's a Mopar guy too !
One of the best things you can do to any K frame is to solid weld it. I even Cut off the spot weld 'ledge' and got rid of some weight and opened up some room all around it. If you do that, leave tabs until you get some areas welded then cut the tabs off and finish up the welding process. Also, stitch weld it so you don't warp the hell out of it.
Thanks for the tips Cranky. Esp the stitch welding part. I've heard over and over about not over heating by welding in an area too long and wasn't even thinking about that when planning this. I was just thinking it's heavy hunk of metal .. this should be easy for someone who know how to weld. Really appreciate you grounding me on that one.
You totally lost me on the bold blue part that I emphasized there. I'm going out to the garage to see if I can figure out what you are talking about.
ninja edit: You mean the where it's sandwhiched together to form kind of a 1" lip right? I'll think about that one and discuss with the welder when I find one but I'm torn as i'd planned for it to look overall stock to the casual observer but that's as a very cool innovation. I was definitely thinking of solid welding the seam around the perimeter and anywhere else the two pieces are joined.
- - - Updated - - -
Got tubular uppers, re-inforcement plates, stage 3 gear box, and rebuilt P/S pump from FF. Their customer service is really good. Got adjustable strut rods from P-S-T with same service. Everything fits like a glove. Then for my liking, had the whole K powder coated. Used RPM on all parts that are to be bare I.e tie rods, end links, center link etc.
Call around your area to possibly source out the welding. Some welding places the employees might do some welding on the side for a little extra cash so the boss won't know. That's the case with me and I also gained a good friend. My friend also went around the whole K and welded everything. Bottom line, word of mouth could go a long way.
Sounds most excellent tor-red. I would like tubular uppers but don't have any canyons to cut through around here and can't really justify the expense of those unless my uppers are trashed. I did read that if they are stripped some folks spot weld the upper ball joints for secure them .. pausing between heat cycles and moving around.
I'm a little nervous about going to FF 2 as I don't want it too tight. Really wasn't even considering level 3. Are there any modern vehicles you could compare the steering effort of the FF3 to? I have a 98 Durango which is my current daily driver and a 08 Impala. Way tighter than those I imagine? My son has an 08 Honda Accord .. anything similar?
- - - Updated - - -
tallhair I heard you only need to use the stiffening plates if you use tubular uppers and plan on pro touring the car?
I hadn't heard that at all. Been hearing stiffening up the K frame was a generally great idea for about a decade or two before the kits were out though. Incidentally I read an article by E-berg years ago where he even added some stiffening to the rear X frame behind the rear seat to trunk area and I think other areas to reinforce the uni-body so that's in the back of my mind as well but that would be more of something I might do for the RR.
- - - Updated - - -
I used the K-frame kit from Firm Feel and the lca plates from PST. Both installs are very straightforward and simple to do.
Thanks elk. Does FF provide diagrams of where/how to mount them and any tips etc?
- - - Updated - - -
I would do it for ya, but shipping those bad boys to Ca. would be $$$. After its all done and the FF box, you will be amazed at the difference. Also, use the 11/16 tie rods and solid sleeves as they are a direct bolt on.
Thanks brother. The 11/16's and solid sleeves are definitely happening. I drove my Dad's cop car back in the early 90's when it wasn't too old and it felt great so I'm anticipating a bit better than that with the FF 2 but hope it's not toooo much. BTW I think there's still a cop car FF box out in the garage somewhere along with probably 5 or 6 non cop car units so I may just inspect one of those and clean it up and try it if I can find one / figure out which one is a cop car unit and it's not wore out !
