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K-Member remove & replace

r.serio

Member
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Joined
Aug 7, 2009
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Location
Fort Myers, Florida
How hard & anything I should do/avoid? I want to take it out. Clean & paint, rebuild the whole suspension. Anyone have a spare K-Member laying around? I'd like to have another to rebuild/restore to cut down on down time. 73 roadrunner


Thanks,
Ron
 
Your best bet is to get to a junk yard around there a take a look around. Most of the time after about 40 years or so nothing used is going to be that pretty. Apparently from what I've seen everybody that had a Mopar back in the day must have thought they were Bo and Luke. As far as the difficulty if you are already rebuilding your suspension that will be out of the way so the only things you have to worry about is the engine and I believe the steering box is also mounted to it. If I were you I'd see about getting it powder coated...removing and painting the K-member again after a few years is probably something you're not going to want to do. I'd also go ahead and replace the motor mounts if you're still running the old rubber ones, they are probably rotted by now.
 
Yup. Unless you're running elephant ears there won't be anything to hold the motor up. So you'll need to pull it.

There are only 4 bolts that hold the K in, but there is all the suspension (including the torsion bars) to contend with. And having it powdered is a really good idea
 
K member

I have a K member,big blk,with Willwood Disc's
It is out of a 64 330 sedan-Dodge.
If I can help let me know,
I 'm in Naples.
Bill
 
Not sure exactly the interchange of the late B Body K members so you may want to do some homework on that one, but removing is not particularly difficult.

I did it years ago with a buddy on a 69 Charger 440 R/T without puling the engine but you will need to support it with a jack stand under the oil pan (which is what we did I think) and/or an engine crane from above, or a 4x4 beam across the inner fenders and something that you can pull tight like motorcycle straps or come along winch.

Slack off the T bars completely, remove the C clip from the frame anchor and using a clamp style torsion bar beater pound them out the back out of the way. You will also need to support the steering box, or easier yet, drive out the coupling pin and drop it with the K member. The rest of the stuff you need to remove should be obvious.
 
Whatever you do, do NOT mar the Tbars. If you use something like vice grips to clamp down on them you can leave a gouge, which can act as a fracture point. If you don't have the correct (or at least suitable) clamp, then back off the nuts on the LCA studs, then give them a whack. This will force them (and the bars) rearwards
 
Whatever you do, do NOT mar the Tbars. If you use something like vice grips to clamp down on them you can leave a gouge, which can act as a fracture point. If you don't have the correct (or at least suitable) clamp, then back off the nuts on the LCA studs, then give them a whack. This will force them (and the bars) rearwards


Thanks for mentioning that!! I forgot to!! I made the tool out of mild steel about 25 yrs ago and still have it. I Just copied the pic in the factory manual.
 
First one I made was a pair of vice grips with curved jaws, and then I ground the teeth out of them, then rounded the edges. Last year I bought the American musclecar set of front end tools (mostly cause I didn't have an "A" sized ball joint socket) and the set includes a Tbar tool much like the original
 
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