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K members and motor mounts

Mike67

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Hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question but I'm relatively new to mopar tech info... I have a 67 coronet that was an old drag car and the old owner ran a motor plate, he cut the mm's off of the k member. I'm wanting to run my bb and was going to to run the plate just to have a cool factor...so I've since changed my mind and don't know which way I should go new motor mounts are try to find a new k member????? I've had 0 luck trying to find a b body k member and the motor mounts I have found I can't tell if they include the lower bracket that actually wells to the k member.... Does anyone have a picture of their mounts or know where to get a set? Thanks for all you're help! FB_IMG_1430761786188.jpg
 
Just get a new k frame from a 66 to 70 b body,they can be had for pretty cheap.And then drop the suspension and change it.Just get a v8 one.
 
Witch mounts do you have ? I may have an extra set of the brackets if that's what your asking for . Sorry no k frame here
 
Don't change the K member just order the mounts from mancini racing and weld in the new brackets. You need to get the pitch right and remember the motor sits to the passenger side off center. Motor plates are really not meant for the street.
 
If you must use factory motor mounts, I'd get a b-body k-frame. You can refinish and rebuild anything that needs it , at the same time. Gotta believe there are lots of them out in your part of the country.
 
I'd recommend getting a 68-70 K frame, it will have the upgraded idler arm mount. You'll just have to get a 68-70 idler arm. All the figuring will be done for you.
 
Hello Mike, go to Schumacher Creative Services........... 206-346-7151, or www.engine-swaps.com ........... Here you can see and learn everything you need to know and then correctly find the used parts you will need. Not that big of a deal to locate and not to pricey. good luck and I believe this is the right way to go. John.
 
Thanks everyone for the info, I've been doing some research and found many different motor mounts available...what I can't tell because of my unfamiliarity with the k member, is it the have the point of attachment to the km ? My km is ground smooth and I'm just not sure how the mm attaches.... Also will stick mm work, I'm expecting somewhere 475- 500 up....030 440 forged 10.75:1, comp cams 285's kit,906 heads w/ mild p&p, crane adj iron rockers, rpm intake,850 demon backed by 727,3000 stall, Dana 60 with 3.90, pro Trac 50....any thing on here that looks like a problem please let me know....short block is built..just need to put heads measure my pushed rods & buy headers....looking for a good used set that won't break me,
 
Jeezzee ...I really need to proof read my work....stupid auto correct...is IF THEY have the point ....also will STOCK.... Thanks again!!!
 
Called Mancini and Shumacher today and although they have the motor mounts they do not carry the pieces that go on the k member for the motor mounts.... Searched cl & rj looking for a km...closest one is about 4 hours away....
 
Don't change the K member just order the mounts from mancini racing and weld in the new brackets. You need to get the pitch right and remember the motor sits to the passenger side off center. Motor plates are really not meant for the street.

I have been using elephant ears for 30 years,,,and a spool too.The plate is the same for a wedge or hemi.
 
Here a pic of a k frame in a 68 charger to give you an idea what your missing.
 

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I have a set of 440 source brackets, bolts and Dyna Tech mounts new in box. My Indy motor has hemi style mounting so had to get Schumachers stuff to mount it. PM me if interested. Of course you still need to find a V8 k frame or weld on some new mounts.
 
You can use the motor-plate, as stated above. I've had many solid mount engines. I just put a piece of rubber between the plate and body mounts. I also use a poly trans mount.
 
I may have a spare K frame. Trying to find what you are looking for is going to be almost impossible unless someone has a bent K and is willing to cut off what I call the receivers that are welded to the K at the factory and then they will probably sit lower than the originals. I'm in Pasadena which isn't that far from you if you want to take a look at what you are up against. Using a plate isn't a bad alternative either though. PM me your phone# and I'll give you a shout if you're interested in dropping by or I can PM you my number. I'm just a few miles from BW-8 south of 225. I usually hit the Hardy toll road from BW-8 whenever I go up that way and it's usually a pretty easy drive....
 
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The car is set up for 8.50 class from the inspection stickers I see... All the tabs for the mounts and mid plate are all there. The car came with a 2 pc plate it's not bad looking just needs buffed..... Again I'm not opposed to a plate and actually wanted to run it just for a cockiness factor. My car is a street car but like a lot of people I want it to look and sound the part... I do have as acess to a mill for the water pump but my concern is clearance around the oil filter/ pump.
 
Here are some pics of the k member and motor plate0919151339.jpg
 

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I wouldn't think a K frame would be too hard to find, especially in TX... 4 hours isnt a bad ride, figure an 8 hour sunday with the wife and kids to pick up car parts, I did a 6 hours today, got some good stuff..
 
Since everything is there, I'd rubber insulate the motor plate. You only need the top 2 bolts on each frame-rail. Just put a limiter[ to stop fore and aft movement] from the engine to someplace on the chassis. You can cut the bottom of the ears off.
 
I have K frame but I am in PA ! I would just motor plate it !!! I ran them for years and am bulding a 69 RR now with one. Very easy to mount an Alt and so on. You can see mine in my Not so stock road runner post. I run a Full plate with a 4 speed and it works very well. Its your call but you already ahead of the game here !!
 
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