Ladder bars or 4 link?

[wedge5]

65 Coronet, 685hp@5900 696@4800, 727 w/4800 stall, Dana w/4:56 and 29x10.5w Hoosiers. Not sure of weight but has normal drag car interior, fiberglass (hood, frt & rear bumper) aluminum (heads,h2o housing, intake, radiator) battery and cell in trunk. Car is drag only.

I am sure I left some important info out.
I would like to upgrade my rear suspension because I think I have over powered my SS springs. I may be wrong but my last engine had less power with a 3800 stall and it didn't hook well then SO should I go with a ladder bar set up or go all out with a four link? My suspension knowledge is very limited so I am also looking for ease of set up.

It seems that the ladder bar set up it less money. I don't want to over spend it I don't have to.

 

[Cranky]

Some info that might help you decide..... http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-003_web.pdf

 

[Longroof]

Do you race at alot of different tracks or do you pretty much go to 1 or 2 tracks? If you travel alot and are willing to learn how to tune the suspension and are looking for the best et the 4 link is the clear winner. Ladder bar is simple will usually hook just about anywhere but will not be as tunable. So there will be some et left vs a well tuned 4 link. In my last car I had the same concerns. It was a bracket car that traveled a little... I went with the ladder bar and I was happy with it.

 

[Budnicks]

Some info that might help you decide..... http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-003_web.pdf

That's a great write up, really simplifies it...

 

[Cranky]

I bought a book several years ago that seems to have a lot of good info in it called Door Slammers: The Chassis Book by Dave Morgan and it helped me a lot when I started getting more serious with racing. Don't know if it's the best book out there but it's worked for me. I do know that there are many different opinions in what makes a car work but there are many that agree, however, if you have problems hooking, don't start throwing money at the car until you do some research. When my car would launch and then spin I went straight to the rear and adjusted things 9 ways to eternity and as a last resort, I thought about changing the front shocks and bingo....the launch and spin problem went away. The cost was a pair of street medium duty 50/50 shocks hanging from the rafters so the cost was 0! Figured I'd give them a shot before buying some race shocks just to see if a difference would be made but the leftover shocks worked so they were left on the car. Funny thing was no one believe what the fix was

 

[Budnicks]

I have the same book too, I haven't read it in years now,
but it still very relevant today, we have some better technology now,
some with more high tech materials, better bigger spherical/hiem joints etc.
a few better products, some with double adjustable component's,
especially better in the adjustable/tunable shocks category,
even electronic or magnetically activated shocks, past my expertise for sure,
but the strategy/theory is still pretty much the same, just even more adjust-ability now...

well worth reading

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Yep :iamwithstupid: ride height or even rake/stance & weight transfer or lift or even suspension limiters, where ballast is if needed, where the weigh is in the car, can make a world of differences, it's not always about throwing money at something, it's making what combo "you have" work together...

 

[dvw]

I'm not sure you've over powered the leaf springs. But I'll bet you have over powered your current shocks. I run ladder bars cause they're lighter than leafs, cheaper than Cal Tracks. No issues running 9.20@147 on 10.5wx31 M/Ts
Doug

 

[Endangered Species]

We have Cal Tracs - They work ok I guess. We're going to Ladder Bars this Winter. Some guys have made them work but I'm tired of chasing it.
If your starting from scratch and are going to be racing go Ladder Bars from the get go and save the aggravation.

 

[wedge5]

I have an appointment to take the car to the shop so I can get an estimate on cost for the job. Sucks though because they told me they couldn't get it in before the 2nd week of September. Hopefully I can get it back in time to get it down the track this year.

How long should a job like this take? Using stock frame rails

 

[Longroof]

I would get a price for them to do it with a new rear frame too and another option of just notching the factory frame in for more tire clearance. Might not be 5 hat much more money in the long run... Drag racing is a disease of always wanting to go faster and more tire options is always good. Cheaper to do it once rather than have to cut it open twice.... I know... I did that on my Valiant. First with ladder bars and stock frame rail, then latter for a full back half... should have spent the money 1 time..

New suspension is fun!!! It will be worth the effort!

 

[Endangered Species]

I was told to ours would take 2-3 days.

 

[dvw]

You could do it yourself in a weekend if you can weld. We're only talking about 2 cross members, housing brackets, and spring mounts.
Doug