Lakewood Bellhousing Info

[hunt2elk]

Lakewood bellhousing for big block Mopar A/B/E bodies, block saver plate, pivot fork bracket, starter nose support cup, bell ball stud, bolt kit, and a z-bar that has been shortened to work. Compatible with either a 130 or 143 tooth flywheel. Was in a 67 B-body.

 

[gkent]

Hey, what's the length of the z-bar tube now?

 

[hunt2elk]

Hey, what's the length of the z-bar tube now?

8.25".

 

[gkent]

Thanks.

 

[peabodyracin]

I gotta hand it to you. That's the 1st ad I've seen in years for a complete one! Every one advertised is missing either the nose cup or block plate. Both those items make one just shy of useless yet guys still want big money for them!

 

[gkent]

I used one for years without the nose cup. Didn't even know they existed !! They don't come with a new unit (at least not when I bought mine).

And a lot of racers never bothered with the block plate. Its worth noting that with the block plate you have to add a spacer of equal thickness behind the fork pivot to maintain the stock angle.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Do you have this part didn't see it in pictures .Holds one starter hole in place. Lower bolt hole I think.

 

[gkent]

Do you have this part didn't see it in pictures .Holds one starter hole in place. Lower bolt hole I think.View attachment 1277762

Do YOU need that part??

 

[dadsbee]

Do YOU need that part??

I've never had that on mine, been running mine since 1979.

 

[Fran Blacker]

dadsbee how do you hold in the starter bottom bolt hole? You usually have pictures, I'm not being as wise ***. I had to make than part at the time it was on BO. Had the cup and fork mount.

 

[Fran Blacker]

They may have changed the flange on newer shields than mine. Mine is from 80's/90's. That part goes from shield to lower starter hole, the small pin goes in the hole and larger part of clamps starter. Sorry to OP if it doesn't need clamp.

 

[hunt2elk]

Do you have this part didn't see it in pictures .Holds one starter hole in place. Lower bolt hole I think.View attachment 1277762

I do not have that piece.

 

[Fran Blacker]

In a later post said that it might not be needed, design change. Put a gear reduction starter and position it like your mount and see if lineup for bolts.

 

[dadsbee]

dadsbee how do you hold in the starter bottom bolt hole? You usually have pictures, I'm not being as wise ***. I had to make than part at the time it was on BO. Had the cup and fork mount.

My Lakewood is pre 1978 !! I installed it in 1979. Housing, just like Joel's, has two sets of holes for mounting a starter pending which flywheel you have, same as the locator cup and it's two locations.

 

[gkent]

The cup has a threaded hole and is held in by a bolt from the outside.

That small bracket/pin is not needed in all applications.

 

[Fran Blacker]

My Lakewood is pre 1978 !! I installed it in 1979. Housing, just like Joel's, has two sets of holes for mounting a starter pending which flywheel you have, same as the locator cup and it's two locations.
View attachment 1277845 View attachment 1277846 View attachment 1277848

Yours is definitely different than mine. Wish I had the fore thought to take pictures of everything. When I did a disc brake conversion I took some.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Sorry cranky one more. This is how it's done on my SS.

 

[hunt2elk]

You guys are getting me to thinking that maybe I should be keeping this thing. Didn't realize so many of you were running them on street cars....

 

[Cranky]

Only in the last few years did I learn of the starter cup. A buddy mentioned and said he's made them before. At least I have the block plate....

You guys are getting me to thinking that maybe I should be keeping this thing. Didn't realize so many of you were running them on street cars....

Oh yeah. If you plan on running a stick behind an engine that's making power it's a good idea to run one. Heck, it's a good idea to run one behind a stock engine if you like taking the rpm up. A buddy of mine just about destroyed his 66 Mustang due to a clutch explosion. It did destroy the transmission AND the engine. It happened after making a run down the road and running it into the middle of 3rd gear and let off of it. Coasting down is when all hell broke loose. He said it was coming down from about 4k rpm. It put lots of nice size holes in the firewall and frame rails....dash included. Got his radio too but he didn't find any holes in his legs at least. It took off all the bell housing bolts, broke the crank, took out the input shaft of the trans and cracked the case. It was a low 12 second 289 Mustang....

 

[dadsbee]

You guys are getting me to thinking that maybe I should be keeping this thing. Didn't realize so many of you were running them on street cars....

Mine went on the Bee in 1979 Joel, the week after my then GF's brother lost his right foot in his '66 GTO. I'm a tad skiddish of my new car without one..